indica
Serial flasher
I have not been called that one for a while, but I like it.
edited for the good of things
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The QUICK question thread.....
- Thread starter Minlak
- Start date
edited for the good of things
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
...as long as that bag is a vegan organic hemp-hessain low farm-to-store-mile free trade bespoke tote.
Otherwise you are clearly using hate-speach against traditional indigenous bag weavers and should be stoned to death.*
*No @safreek - not that type of stoned.
safreek
*******
Damnit
Litenbror
Eats Squid
What's everyones thoughts on high Km Subarus? Saw a 2011 Forester with 300k on the clock with full log book servicing etc. Though for a low enough price it could be a good disposable car for the next 4-5 years. I know I've seen some discussion on here from @link1896 @Flow-Rider @Dales Cannon about issues but if it's been maintained? I know old ones could do 500k.
I know bugger all about subies except pulling them off beach tracks. Flow or link are better resources.
Asininedrivel
caviar connoisseur
My Liberty (a 3 litre) is nudging 228,000km and still feels tight as a drum. Unsure if by Subaru standards that mileage is even worth boasting about..
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Head gaskets in earlier 2.5s are a known problem area, but if they've been replaced it should keep trucking along just fine. My previous outback made it well past 400k before it shat the bed, current one is on about 350k with no real problems.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Ahh the good old Forrester. Was a great side income last decade for me fixing them in the home workshop.
2011 was the change over year between the EJ25 engine and the FB25 engine. FB25 has the oil filter above the engine, EJ25 is below.
EJ25 related:
Here is a photo of the EJ25's naturally aspirated block face with the issues highlighted . Few issues arise from their design and manufacturing process. The two oil return galleries, their lower sealing faces, the head gasket needs to seal against this area, it's very narrow, 8mm from memory. They love to weep oil. The oil supply gallery, top left in the photo, again has a very narrow sealing face between it and the water jacket below it. The water jacket is surrounding the cylinders. Oil in the coolant typically is from this seal beginning to fail, cold startup the oil pressure here can be 40 psi where it enters the heads.
In October 2010, Subaru finally got their shit together and stopped milling the block faces with a lump of jagged rock, and ditched the composite head gaskets and went with the multi layer steel gaskets, as had been used in their boosted engines.
EJ series all run rubber timing belts. Timing belt replacement interval was 100k KM, yet Subaru America messed up and ran with 100k Miles in the book. Timing belt, all pulleys, tensioner and water pump need to be replaced. If you see just a belt was replaced, RUN.
FB25:
Engine was designed around SUPER thin 0w-20 oil to get fuel consumption numbers down. They had issues with quality control around bore roundness, and compression and oil ring end gap sizing (being too wide), allowing for excess oil consumption, subaru deemed 1L per 1000km ok. Plus the camshaft caps, subaru runs a one piece camshaft cap that has all 6 top half of the bearings machined into it. They used incorrectly sized orings made of buna instead of viton, and didn't apply enough RTV gasket maker to seal the cam cap to the head. Many had oil leaking here. My former inlaws, they had a 2012 Forester with the FB25. When I looked at it in 2016, I concluded it was leaking from every sealing surface, they didn't like it when I said it was an engine out repair.
FB series uses a timing chain.
2011 was the change over year between the EJ25 engine and the FB25 engine. FB25 has the oil filter above the engine, EJ25 is below.
EJ25 related:
Here is a photo of the EJ25's naturally aspirated block face with the issues highlighted . Few issues arise from their design and manufacturing process. The two oil return galleries, their lower sealing faces, the head gasket needs to seal against this area, it's very narrow, 8mm from memory. They love to weep oil. The oil supply gallery, top left in the photo, again has a very narrow sealing face between it and the water jacket below it. The water jacket is surrounding the cylinders. Oil in the coolant typically is from this seal beginning to fail, cold startup the oil pressure here can be 40 psi where it enters the heads.
In October 2010, Subaru finally got their shit together and stopped milling the block faces with a lump of jagged rock, and ditched the composite head gaskets and went with the multi layer steel gaskets, as had been used in their boosted engines.
EJ series all run rubber timing belts. Timing belt replacement interval was 100k KM, yet Subaru America messed up and ran with 100k Miles in the book. Timing belt, all pulleys, tensioner and water pump need to be replaced. If you see just a belt was replaced, RUN.
FB25:
Engine was designed around SUPER thin 0w-20 oil to get fuel consumption numbers down. They had issues with quality control around bore roundness, and compression and oil ring end gap sizing (being too wide), allowing for excess oil consumption, subaru deemed 1L per 1000km ok. Plus the camshaft caps, subaru runs a one piece camshaft cap that has all 6 top half of the bearings machined into it. They used incorrectly sized orings made of buna instead of viton, and didn't apply enough RTV gasket maker to seal the cam cap to the head. Many had oil leaking here. My former inlaws, they had a 2012 Forester with the FB25. When I looked at it in 2016, I concluded it was leaking from every sealing surface, they didn't like it when I said it was an engine out repair.
FB series uses a timing chain.
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link1896
Mr Greenfield
additionally, EJ25's ground wiring is PATHETIC, like something ridiculous like 4mm2 of copper.
Adding 25-35mm2 wiring makes a massive difference, especially to starting. Without it, turning on the cabins blower fan would make the headlights flicker. Also helps minimise voltage drops and so minimise galvanic corrosion. Ally blocks, ally heads, ally radiator, ally heater core. Steel water pump shaft and impeller (sometimes cast iron).
Adding 25-35mm2 wiring makes a massive difference, especially to starting. Without it, turning on the cabins blower fan would make the headlights flicker. Also helps minimise voltage drops and so minimise galvanic corrosion. Ally blocks, ally heads, ally radiator, ally heater core. Steel water pump shaft and impeller (sometimes cast iron).
Flow-Rider
Burner
I've got 2 x 2.5s and they're doing fine, MY09 and MY10, but they don't have big kms on them.
Overheat them once or use cheap coolant, and then you'll have a lot of grief with them. Not hard to tell if the head gaskets are leaking, you can usually see a coolant stain externally where the head meets the engine block on the bottom side of the engine, but good chance if they've leaked they would have been done by now with those types of Kms. If it's been looked after, most likely a good car still.
I'm happy with mine, they're not perfect cars but haven't even laid a spanner on them other than basic servicing. The only problem I've had is an AC temp sensor was faulty, the alarm system needs to be reset on one, and the airbag and relay recall that was done for free. I think there was an oil usage problem with the 2.5s but both of mine are OK.
Jpez
Down on the left!
So I rebuilt my derailleur with extended cages for a bigger cassette , new cable and lubed the shifter and I’m finding that no matter how much I turn the limit screw for the granny gear it’s just not quite reaching and dropping the chain back back down.
I’ve been through too much cable tension not allowing it make it onto the little cog but not with the big one.
I’m certain I’m missing something really simple.
Any thoughts?
I’ve been through too much cable tension not allowing it make it onto the little cog but not with the big one.
I’m certain I’m missing something really simple.
Any thoughts?
Could be chain length with longer cage. I’ve run a one up extender and the garbaruk but always fitted a new chain
Jpez
Down on the left!
Yep, new chain sized correctly according to Garburuks instructions.
Is it 11 or 12 speed? What derailleur?
Hanger straight?
Jpez
Down on the left!
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Adjusted the inner & outer travel stops to suit the new cassette? Sometimes the cassettes don't align quite the same, and if it's hitting the limit screw but not fully inline with the big cog it'll derail down a gear (or hunt up and down between the two).
Jpez
Down on the left!
11 speed GX mech with 11-50 Garburuk cassette and Garburuk extended cage.
Jpez
Down on the left!
You mean limit screws?