Some useful 3D printed parts, tools and accessories

[Plankosaurus]

So I finally got the printer (Ender 3 V2) running alright last night after a couple of hours tinkering and changing setting and half way through the first good print I hear a pop! and the hot end sinks into the print. I now have it in pieces on the work bench but my suspicions are that the main board shorted out (fans to the hot end and power supply still run). I'm looking at the BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2 32Bit

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001050145015.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.7e2f1fe0sbahQ4&browser_id=b9eaa60a3ec7467f912c475906e2b029&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=17c05c682e29f70d8f816b069ced567c9716e48b3f&gclid=&

imgsrc=ae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHf1f9527a3fbd4980b68a536068cccae0U.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp

Any experience with this board and if I'm replacing the main board should I go all in and upgrade it further?

So I finally got the printer (Ender 3 V2) running alright last night after a couple of hours tinkering and changing setting and half way through the first good print I hear a pop! and the hot end sinks into the print. I now have it in pieces on the work bench but my suspicions are that the main board shorted out (fans to the hot end and power supply still run). I'm looking at the BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2 32Bit

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001050145015.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.7e2f1fe0sbahQ4&browser_id=b9eaa60a3ec7467f912c475906e2b029&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=17c05c682e29f70d8f816b069ced567c9716e48b3f&gclid=&

imgsrc=ae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHf1f9527a3fbd4980b68a536068cccae0U.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp

Any experience with this board and if I'm replacing the main board should I go all in and upgrade it further?

My ender 3 is in bits at the moment after the main board fried on me. I learned that the tinned cable ends that all the ender's come with are no good - tinned cables in a crush connector situation can have extra resistance which causes heat which caused my board to burn out.

I've gone for the skr turbo, seems like a quality board. It's a little bit larger but still fits in the same spot. Would have gone the E3 mini, but I wanted the extra extruder/hotend ports so I could convert to dual nozzles. I'm waiting for parts to do that now, because Chinese prices were less than half the local prices

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[Litenbror]

My ender 3 is in bits at the moment after the main board fried on me. I learned that the tinned cable ends that all the ender's come with are no good - tinned cables in a crush connector situation can have extra resistance which causes heat which caused my board to burn out.

I've gone for the skr turbo, seems like a quality board. It's a little bit larger but still fits in the same spot. Would have gone the E3 mini, but I wanted the extra extruder/hotend ports so I could convert to dual nozzles. I'm waiting for parts to do that now, because Chinese prices were less than half the local prices

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From a cursory inspection I can't see anything that is cooked and it hadn't been working to hard so heat shouldn't have been an issue but I'm going to go over it with the multimeter tonight.

Will look into skr turbo as I'm not set on any particular board. I might also see what kits are available on AliExpress, maybe get a better hot end and bed leveling with the board and do it all at once.

 

[SummitFever]

...I learned that the tinned cable ends that all the ender's come with are no good - tinned cables in a crush connector situation can have extra resistance which causes heat which caused my board to burn out...

Yeah. They are a very bad idea. Indeed any solder related termination causes the wire to break where the solder ends. In industrial applications we always use bootlace ferrules. You can get a reasonable crimper and hundreds of ferrules for bugger all off fleabay or aliexpress. They are the proper way to terminate multi-strand wire into a screw terminal block.

 

[Plankosaurus]

From a cursory inspection I can't see anything that is cooked and it hadn't been working to hard so heat shouldn't have been an issue but I'm going to go over it with the multimeter tonight.

Will look into skr turbo as I'm not set on any particular board. I might also see what kits are available on AliExpress, maybe get a better hot end and bed leveling with the board and do it all at once.

I wouldn't necessarily say the turbo is better than the mini, just suited my desire to fuck around with the printer a bit more .

I've got a bondtech ddx clone setup for the E3 that was easy to set up and seemed quite reliable. I don't think these clone setups are super expensive, and definitely a step up from the stock ones. I'd try and get something with an all metal heatbreak, you'll have a lot less issues running abs because there won't be a Bowden tube getting too hot.

I've also got a biqu h2 on my ender 6. It works fantastic, but there was some stuffing around and a lot of mistakes and teardowns to get it reliable so it's hard to recommend. It's light as a feather though, really hard to get your head around that it's doing the same thing as a ddx setup in 1/3 the size.

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[Plankosaurus]

Yeah. They are a very bad idea. Indeed any solder related termination causes the wire to break where the solder ends. In industrial applications we always use bootlace ferrules. You can get a reasonable crimper and hundreds of ferrules for bugger all off fleabay or aliexpress. They are the proper way to terminate multi-strand wire into a screw terminal block.

I've done that on both my printers now. Things you need to learn the hard way

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[Litenbror]

I've done that on both my printers now. Things you need to learn the hard way

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While researching upgrades this was the first thing all the writers did when upgrading the board.

 

[Litenbror]

I wouldn't necessarily say the turbo is better than the mini, just suited my desire to fuck around with the printer a bit more .

I've got a bondtech ddx clone setup for the E3 that was easy to set up and seemed quite reliable. I don't think these clone setups are super expensive, and definitely a step up from the stock ones. I'd try and get something with an all metal heatbreak, you'll have a lot less issues running abs because there won't be a Bowden tube getting too hot.

I've also got a biqu h2 on my ender 6. It works fantastic, but there was some stuffing around and a lot of mistakes and teardowns to get it reliable so it's hard to recommend. It's light as a feather though, really hard to get your head around that it's doing the same thing as a ddx setup in 1/3 the size.

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You mentioned the Trianglelab DDE Direct Drive Extruder Upgrade Kit a while ago would you still recommend it for $100?

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000006762144.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0n.store_m_home.undefined_undefined.0

 

[Plankosaurus]

You mentioned the Trianglelab DDE Direct Drive Extruder Upgrade Kit a while ago would you still recommend it for $100?

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000006762144.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0n.store_m_home.undefined_undefined.0

Looks very much like mine, if not identical.

Couple of things to note -
The hotend isn't all metal, it uses a Bowden tube between the extruder and the nozzle.
The part cooling duct is made of pla, will warp the second something goes wrong with abs. I have the STL for a duct that fits now, but was a pain to dig up.

Not dealbreakers, just the negatives I encountered. Otherwise the thing was easy enough to install, you can use off the shelf bondtech firmware if you don't want to compile your own, and it seemed pretty reliable.

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[cokeonspecialtwodollars]

v1.0 test fit on the printer now.

 

[Isaakk]

Modeled and printed a bar clamp adapter for I-Spec EV today, figured i'd post it here as might be useful for someone.

ISpec EV to 22.2mm Bar Clamp by virtika

22.2mm bar clamp to mount an I-Spec EV shifter or dropper lever. Uses: 1x M4x15mm bolt + M4 nut 1x M5x12mm bolt + washer Print with 4+ wall thickness and 100% infill. You may find it difficult to get the M4 nut into the recess if your printer calibration is a little off - would recommend -0.1mm...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[yuley95]

Anyone able to print a Ispec AB to MMX shifter mount? I’m finding it hard to track down. I can get one from mountain bike direct but have to buy the pair and it’s pretty steep price to de-clutter the bars just slightly…

The brake is a shimano Zee BL-M640 to standard SRAM shifter mount. @Isaakk @Plankosaurus I’d be happy to pay for the service if you were able to produce the part.

 

[Isaakk]

https://www.mtbdirect.com.au/problem-solvers-mismatch-1.1-adaptor - right only is an option, and would probably be more reliable than plastic?

Happy to give it a go though, looks like someone has already modeled one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2104787

Edit: Is bigger than I expected - pretty solid. Underside isn't as clean as top/sides due to supports.

 

[yuley95]

https://www.mtbdirect.com.au/problem-solvers-mismatch-1.1-adaptor - right only is an option, and would probably be more reliable than plastic?

Happy to give it a go though, looks like someone has already modeled one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2104787

Edit: Is bigger than I expected - pretty solid. Underside isn't as clean as top/sides due to supports.

Ah, you’re right they do have right side only. It was a while ago i looked and they were out. Having said that $45 is a lot to stomach. I’ll PM you to see about getting one printed

 

[Ackland]

Anyone able to print me a few of these in exchange for dollarbucks or liquid currency?

Bonus points if you can make it lower profile

Garmin Oregon, eTrex, GPSmap 64 to Edge (Quarter Turn) Mount by pbegala87

Hi everyone! I like my Garmin GPSmap64 a lot - just not the bike mount. And I am sure I am not the only one :) This mount allows you to attach a Garmin eTrex, Oregon, GPSmap64 to the excellent Garmin quarter turn mount they use for the Edge. Print this with a lot of infill to get it as strong as...

www.thingiverse.com

This shapeways design is much neater (but not open source)

Converter for Garmin GPS eTrex to Edge Mount by fb52c2f on Shapeways

Check out Converter for Garmin GPS eTrex to Edge Mount by fb52c2f on Shapeways and discover more 3D printed products in Other.

www.shapeways.com

 

[Isaakk]

This looks like the Shapeways version? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3979724 Happy to give it a go after work

 

[Ackland]

This looks like the Shapeways version? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3979724 Happy to give it a go after work

Awesome! Thanks

 

[Isaakk]

Just an update, turns out it the shapeways-style one is not an easy print to get it done cleanly. Just trying to print it now at a 45ish degree angle in PLA+ (not sure if PLA will be flexible enough for the little securing tab though, as it's pretty rigid). Possibly nylon would be a better choice, but I don't have any.

 

[Isaakk]

Worked better - still possibly not flexible enough for the securing tab. Happy to post to you to give it a go though.

 

[Ackland]

Worked better - still possibly not flexible enough for the securing tab. Happy to post to you to give it a go though.

Looks great.

With these bigger gps units, you're not clipping them off and on often so I think the more secure tab will actually be a plus

 

[goobags]

Worked better - still possibly not flexible enough for the securing tab. Happy to post to you to give it a go though.

Definitely looks like a tough print. I have some PETG and can give it a go, bit more flexible however I think the more chunky design leads itself to being 3D printed much more than this model.


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