Some useful 3D printed parts, tools and accessories
- Thread starter goobags
- Start date
I'd be keen on one or two if you decide to print a few. No trouble if not.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
+1 (or 2)
cokeonspecialtwodollars
Fartes of Portingale
No trouble at all, flick me a PM with your addresseses.
Isaakk
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Huh. Yes, you could. That's a good idea, will throw together a design when I get a chance.
Isaakk
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Link 404's?
New test version of carrier plate if anyone wants to give it a go. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgigmOCgbZahpl3LzJI6LRnZZXHA?e=vbEaaA
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Damn thingiverse. If you search by the 7 digit number it will get you there but I will sort it once on the computer.
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rockmoose
his flabber is totally gastered
They are crypto tokens.
So what are these actually for? Just so I can update the Thingiverse title
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Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Suntour fork travel spacer
So what are these actually for? Just so I can update the Thingiverse title
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Fork Travel Spacer
Spacer for reducing fork travel on air spring forks. Compatible with air forks that use a coil negative spring. 2015-21 Axon non-boost and boost models 2018-21 Raidon boost models 2015-20 Auron non boost and boost models 2015-20 Aion non-boost and boost models 2015-20 Durolux...
www.srsuntour.us
Edit: @goobags, if you have any spare, could I please grab one? Let me know your price for spacer plus shipping.
treble
Likes Dirt
@Plankosaurus and @goobags. It may have been answered already, but what printer would you recommend to a newbie with a growing list of things bookmarked on thingiverse?
Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
Pretty open ended, budget oriented, and subject to opinion. Like a bike recommendation
If you're reasonably tech savvy, and on a budget, the ender 3 (pro or V2) is a great unit. They're about $350 and punch well over their weight. You need to assemble it though, and it has a bit of a learning curve and no auto tuning stuff out of the box. There's tons of support online and heaps of upgrade paths if that tickles you fancy. I have an ender 3 which I mess with upgrades with, and an ender 6 that is just a workhorse with a bigger buildplate and much faster print capabilities.
A friend of mine has a flashforge adventurer. This cost him near 3 times the ender 3 and doesn't produce better prints BUT it was plug and play and he hasn't had to tune or stuff around with anything. It does a solid job, he's just a little annoyed that he can't upgrade it to work with soft filaments, they're locked down completely.
...that doesn't answer anything for you does it?
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treble
Likes Dirt
I figured as much. I’ve looked into the Ender and Prusa printers previously. The idea of plug and play does appeal to me, but so does upgrade-ability. Not fussed about assembly and would consider myself pretty good with tech.Pretty open ended, budget oriented, and subject to opinion. Like a bike recommendation
SummitFever
Eats Squid
I recently got a Creality CR200B which I've been fairly happy with (a touch under $500 delivered off fleabay). Pretty much works out of the box and will do ABS with its heated bed and full enclosure. Compared to CNC machining, 3D printers are a PITA to get running reliably so be prepared for some tweaking. Took me about a week of fairly intense tinkering to get a good understanding of the whole process, dial the printer in and arrive at a reliable calibration process for each type of filament. Since then, I've been getting good, consistent results. So much so, that over the last week I've printed all of the ABS parts for a Voron which I'll self-build as my next 3D printer.
I use mine for printing stuff I can't CNC machine, so primarily fluid delivery manifolds and the like with complicated internal enclosed pathways.
As @Plankosaurus says the Enders look good value for the money and I like their upgradeability.
I use mine for printing stuff I can't CNC machine, so primarily fluid delivery manifolds and the like with complicated internal enclosed pathways.
As @Plankosaurus says the Enders look good value for the money and I like their upgradeability.
Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
The other thing to consider is the type of printer. The ender 3 has a bed that shifts back and forth and the head moves up and down. On my ender 6 bed does the vertical movement and the head does horizontal which makes it much more stable. It's a bit harder to upgrade and has less community support but it's a far superior printer. Ender 5 series is a good compromise if you want that stability with a bit less price, I'd probably go that route myself in hindsight because they seem to have easier upgrade paths (6 can take all the same upgrades, just requires more parts/effort)
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Litenbror
Eats Squid
Those Voron's look awesome. I'm running an Ender 3 from Creality and it's a really good starting point, there is a bit to learn but it's ok for someone with a little mechanical aptitude.
Litenbror
Eats Squid
Also good to recognise if it's a tool or a toy. @SummitFever and @Plankosaurus seem to use theirs as tools so it's worth the time and dollar investment to get something better. I use mine as more of a toy so I went with something cheaper that doesn't give as professional results.
I have a Prusa MK3S which came in kit form. Can’t remember how many hours they quote it takes to build but they were pretty close to the money with it. I have upgraded to a bond tech extruded as I was having issues with heat soak on the extruded stepper so now have a 3:1 reduction to help reduce heat through the drive gears. Have only printed the spacers above since changing so can’t really comment any further
I have been happy with it but they do need a bit of tinkering every now and then plus maintenance or repairs when things decide to stop working. Having a printer that is relatively easy to dismantle to remove jams I have learnt is important after pulling mine apart a couple of times. Ended up being a filament feed issue and nothing to do with the printer.
Some things to consider other than cost:
Availability of spares
Heated bed
Bed autolevelling function
Interface from slicer to printing (MK3S works though octoprint but quality is terrible so it’s SD card only for me)
Enclosed or not. They aren’t silent so mine is in the garage within a cabinet to keep the dust out
How easy a nozzle change is
Filament storage, needs to be dry and that’s also the car for the spool currently being printed
If it’s come ready to print you will still have to tinker. Different brand filaments print differently, even different colours print differently and that’s before something fails on it
Would I get a Prusa again? Yes, and considering the mini and having it as a dedicated 0.25mm nozzle machine
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I have been happy with it but they do need a bit of tinkering every now and then plus maintenance or repairs when things decide to stop working. Having a printer that is relatively easy to dismantle to remove jams I have learnt is important after pulling mine apart a couple of times. Ended up being a filament feed issue and nothing to do with the printer.
Some things to consider other than cost:
Availability of spares
Heated bed
Bed autolevelling function
Interface from slicer to printing (MK3S works though octoprint but quality is terrible so it’s SD card only for me)
Enclosed or not. They aren’t silent so mine is in the garage within a cabinet to keep the dust out
How easy a nozzle change is
Filament storage, needs to be dry and that’s also the car for the spool currently being printed
If it’s come ready to print you will still have to tinker. Different brand filaments print differently, even different colours print differently and that’s before something fails on it
Would I get a Prusa again? Yes, and considering the mini and having it as a dedicated 0.25mm nozzle machine
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Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
Silent is achievable with ender printers if you upgrade the main board to one with silent drivers. You can basically only hear the fans on mine since upgrading the ender 3 (ender 6 comes with a silent board too). Are you able to upgrade boards to a silent one? Might help with octoprint too, or look at running Klipper so the processing isn't done on the board.
But yeah, set and forget isn't really achievable with a 3d printer unless you always run the same filament and have a premium printer with less maintenance and auto levelling etc.
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Litenbror
Eats Squid
So I finally got the printer (Ender 3 V2) running alright last night after a couple of hours tinkering and changing setting and half way through the first good print I hear a pop! and the hot end sinks into the print. I now have it in pieces on the work bench but my suspicions are that the main board shorted out (fans to the hot end and power supply still run). I'm looking at the BIGTREETECH SKR MINI E3 V2 32Bit
imgsrc=ae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHf1f9527a3fbd4980b68a536068cccae0U.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp
Any experience with this board and if I'm replacing the main board should I go all in and upgrade it further?