Nah, it's French.
Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
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link1896
Mr Greenfield
Christ can’t find it. Was an awesome clip on TikTok of a filler cap sent into orbit, pinging around the workshop at Mach fuck me speed.One has heaps of blow-by?
cokeonspecialtwodollars
Fartes of Portingale
Un guêpe tueuse?
Flow-Rider
Burner
Vacuum leak, intake valve not a 100% sealing, ignition timing out and maybe another 100 things.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
It’s not a vacuum leak, but I do have fears for an inlet valve that maybe got a rusty seat when the engine was sitting in the backyard over winter with plastic wrapped around it…Vacuum leak, intake valve not a 100% sealing, ignition timing out and maybe another 100 things.
But. It idles well when I clear the computers learned parameters and after about a minute idling the STFT goes low and the idle gets wonky. And it’s switching back and forth between open and closed loop which is odd.
Next test is making sure the upstream sensor heater is getting power - the sensor I swapped from the scenic (identical engine) that runs perfectly and it’s still showing a slow response at idle which is perhaps making the ECU ignore it and go back to open loop.
FatMuz
Likes Dirt
Haven't done an update for a while...
Next stage will be an ARI Performance down pipe, upgraded BOV and another tune.
- Tune from CocoEuroTech
- BMC Air intake fitted and modified for better air flow
- Headlight bulbs upgraded (the oem are absolutely the worst headlights ever)
- Not in picture...my wife and son bought me personalised plates for Xmas...nice surprise...wasn't expecting that.
Next stage will be an ARI Performance down pipe, upgraded BOV and another tune.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Right. O2 sensor behave fine in the other car so its not that. Heater circuit 12v present and correct.
But the noisy PCV diaphragm has to be a clue, and I can hear air sucking - i swear if after all this it was a small vacuum leak i couldnt find ill cry... Just finally got bad enough to hear it.
But it might be the breather/oil separator plate on the top of the cam cover sucking air in. Pulled it off and there were shiny sealant free zones about where I think the sucking noise was - so it may have been giving the PCV way too much air and not pulling the small vacuum on the crankcase like its supposed to.
Pulled off, some permatex aviation glue was the closest i had to the adhesive reno recommends for the machined alloy to alloy interface. Will let that set until tomorrow and cross fingers.
LTIL - nailing the amount of sealant
But the noisy PCV diaphragm has to be a clue, and I can hear air sucking - i swear if after all this it was a small vacuum leak i couldnt find ill cry... Just finally got bad enough to hear it.
But it might be the breather/oil separator plate on the top of the cam cover sucking air in. Pulled it off and there were shiny sealant free zones about where I think the sucking noise was - so it may have been giving the PCV way too much air and not pulling the small vacuum on the crankcase like its supposed to.
Pulled off, some permatex aviation glue was the closest i had to the adhesive reno recommends for the machined alloy to alloy interface. Will let that set until tomorrow and cross fingers.
LTIL - nailing the amount of sealant
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Gotta say, I admire your stubborn determination to fix this thing.Right. O2 sensor behave fine in the other car so its not that. Heater circuit 12v present and correct.
But the noisy PCV diaphragm has to be a clue, and I can hear air sucking - i swear if after all this it was a small vacuum leak i couldnt find ill cry... Just finally got bad enough to hear it.
But it might be the breather/oil separator plate on the top of the cam cover sucking air in. Pulled it off and there were shiny sealant free zones about where I think the sucking noise was - so it may have been giving the PCV way too much air and not pulling the small vacuum on the crankcase like its supposed to.
Pulled off, some permatex aviation glue was the closest i had to the adhesive reno recommends for the machined alloy to alloy interface. Will let that set until tomorrow and cross fingers.
LTIL - nailing the amount of sealant
View attachment 385260
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Its just a bloody machine - they haven’t taken over yet so I’m not about to let it outsmart me…
It's French. It sucks everywhere.Right. O2 sensor behave fine in the other car so its not that. Heater circuit 12v present and correct.
But the noisy PCV diaphragm has to be a clue, and I can hear air sucking - i swear if after all this it was a small vacuum leak i couldnt find ill cry... Just finally got bad enough to hear it.
But it might be the breather/oil separator plate on the top of the cam cover sucking air in. Pulled it off and there were shiny sealant free zones about where I think the sucking noise was - so it may have been giving the PCV way too much air and not pulling the small vacuum on the crankcase like its supposed to.
Pulled off, some permatex aviation glue was the closest i had to the adhesive reno recommends for the machined alloy to alloy interface. Will let that set until tomorrow and cross fingers.
LTIL - nailing the amount of sealant
View attachment 385260
link1896
Mr Greenfield
When this gets mundane.
Suzuki cappuccino with a built hyabusa engine running 45psi.
700kg, 1000hp. You will know you’re alive then.
FatMuz
Likes Dirt
Not sure how long that engine is going to last at that power output... but certainly would be a unique driving experience.
It seems to be the trend... to take a small/micro car and drop a Hayabusa engine in. The first I recall seeing was a Smart Car / Hayabusa conversion.
link1896
Mr Greenfield
Then there was the twin hyabusa powered smart car
The Japanese switch off headlights at night when stopped at traffic lights.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
wow, really? That’s even weirder.
Not law, just courtesy.
