The QUICK question thread.....

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
DM chainrings.

6mm is non boost and 3mm boost?

Looking to purchase a crankset for a non-boost frame, so my thinking is I need 6mm offset chainring...
 

indica

Serial flasher
Soooooooo. 1997 Mitsi Mirage - 125000 kms. Engine feels like it goes well but all this crap.
Tyres are okay.... front struts - look fucking expensive. Is it worth it? I know it's not but the son needs a car.

1696849429189.png
 

Minlak

custom titis
Struts are worth it - keeps your tyres on the road in the correct manner that stops early tyre replacement - also helps you stop if your suspension is working correctly - that’s actually an ok price for the struts my ASX were $1000 - however having said all that it depends on if you plan on replacing car anytime soon?
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Otherwise do the wipers yourself and get the rest done at the shop?
Or see if standard 6 or 8mm wiper blade inserts will fit the head. They should be <$10 per insert.

The rest of the list seems reasonable enough. If anything I'd be a little concerned about how cheap the tyres are unless they're a "4 for the price of 3" type deal - if they're Chinese cheapies quoted (typically hard compound and low grip - especially in the wet) I'd consider buying something better there.
 

Lucaw

Next in line
Soooooooo. 1997 Mitsi Mirage - 125000 kms. Engine feels like it goes well but all this crap.
Tyres are okay.... front struts - look fucking expensive. Is it worth it? I know it's not but the son needs a car.

View attachment 403295
Are you buying the car, or do you already own it?
If you already own it, replace the wipers yourself and get it done if you don't have the skills to do it, but if you are buying it you could probably get something better
 

andrew9

Likes Dirt
All cars need tyres. Assuming that he will have the car long enough to wear them out, then that cost is no different to filling the fuel tank, so it shouldn't be a factor in the decision.

Many people could swap all those parts in an afternoon, that era of Japanese cars is great for DIY maintenance.

I would either do everything except the tyres and alignment myself or buy a newer used car.

But then there is the chance a different used car will need similar work.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Many people could swap all those parts in an afternoon, that era of Japanese cars is great for DIY maintenance.
Not sure many people would have spring compressors and decent jack-stands on hand for doing front struts. The rest of the stuff seems pretty reasonably priced IMO. The workshop can make money, but doesn't look to be trying to gouge @indica by any means.
 

andrew9

Likes Dirt
Not sure many people would have spring compressors and decent jack-stands on hand for doing front struts. The rest of the stuff seems pretty reasonably priced IMO. The workshop can make money, but doesn't look to be trying to gouge @indica by any means.
True that. There is brake bleeding too, even if you can do it with only a jar and some aquarium hose. It can be easy to do, but I found it really annoying the first few times

The bill seems fine apart from the possibly crap tyres. I would still be thinking of what else you can get for $1940 + selling the mirage as is.

Depends on what you want from a car, the mirage would probably be a zippy minimalist fun thing
 

Minlak

custom titis
Kinda what I was looking for and cheers.



Already own it

Thank heaps all for the replies. I am mechanically retarded - not a hope in hell of doing any of that myself.
My daughters car went for a service at Holden and they wanted $2900 for a thermostat / engine mount / battery replacement - it had an extended warranty as she lives away from me we thought good idea - ended up costing her nothing - however if she had to pay for it I could have easily bought any specialty tools needed and the parts and been in front by over $1500 - being able to do mechanical work is a huge advantage in life IMHO.
You would be surprised how easy it really is and there are good repair manuals available for that type of car

 
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fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
Is 0.4mm extra width (0.2 each side) going to give me issues witb my RF BB bearings?

For context:

Changed to 24mm ID bearings to do away with the plastic shim/sleeves however the enduro outboard dust seals are 0.2mm thicker than the plastic sleeve/dust covers which to me means more preload on the bearings. I removed a spindle spacer, but the cranks were harder to spin than with the spacer left on.

  • Spacer on, cranks spin about three times. Crank bolt nipped up.

  • Spacer off, cranks spin about once. And the crank bolt isn't even nipped up.
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Is 0.4mm extra width (0.2 each side) going to give me issues witb my RF BB bearings?

For context:

Changed to 24mm ID bearings to do away with the plastic shim/sleeves however the enduro outboard dust seals are 0.2mm thicker than the plastic sleeve/dust covers which to me means more preload on the bearings. I removed a spindle spacer, but the cranks were harder to spin than with the spacer left on.

  • Spacer on, cranks spin about three times. Crank bolt nipped up.

  • Spacer off, cranks spin about once. And the crank bolt isn't even nipped up.

Sounds like you are ready to start learning no footers and then on to the more advanced off pedal combos!
 
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