The QUICK question thread.....

Dales Cannon

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
fjohn860 said:
Is 0.4mm extra width (0.2 each side) going to give me issues witb my RF BB bearings?

For context:

Changed to 24mm ID bearings to do away with the plastic shim/sleeves however the enduro outboard dust seals are 0.2mm thicker than the plastic sleeve/dust covers which to me means more preload on the bearings. I removed a spindle spacer, but the cranks were harder to spin than with the spacer left on.

  • Spacer on, cranks spin about three times. Crank bolt nipped up.

  • Spacer off, cranks spin about once. And the crank bolt isn't even nipped up.
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This is really tricky (for me at least) to understand. I get the bearing plus seal is 0.4mm wider. Keeping the spacer should add preload to the bearings and make them harder to spin as you stated. Are they just deep groove ball bearings and not angular contact ball bearings? Does the crank spin easily if nothing is tensioned? Maybe, maybe the bearings aren't sitting square or the shell is not square and while the spacer adds too much preload it also lines up the bearings properly? Can you substitute something the correct length for the spacer and see?
 
beeb

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Dales Cannon said:
This is really tricky (for me at least) to understand. I get the bearing plus seal is 0.4mm wider. Keeping the spacer should add preload to the bearings and make them harder to spin as you stated. Are they just deep groove ball bearings and not angular contact ball bearings? Does the crank spin easily if nothing is tensioned? Maybe, maybe the bearings aren't sitting square or the shell is not square and while the spacer adds too much preload it also lines up the bearings properly? Can you substitute something the correct length for the spacer and see?
Click to expand...
Sorry no, the correct answer is new bike time!
 
fjohn860

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
Dales Cannon said:
This is really tricky (for me at least) to understand. I get the bearing plus seal is 0.4mm wider. Keeping the spacer should add preload to the bearings and make them harder to spin as you stated. Are they just deep groove ball bearings and not angular contact ball bearings? How does the crank spin easily if nothing is tensioned? Maybe, maybe the bearings aren't sitting square or the shell is not square and while the spacer adds too much preload it also lines up the bearings properly? Can you substitute something the correct length for the spacer and see?
Click to expand...
Yes, it does not compute to my engineering brain either. I'm thinking about cutting the sleeve part off the original stupid plastic dust covers and putting them back on just to compare the "free-ness" of the cranks.
20231012_104450.gif


EDIT: Yes just deep groove ball bearings
 
mike14

mike14

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Does anyone know where the DVO tech manuals are (not the setup ones)? Can't seem to find them on their site.
Or, does anyone know the oil amounts for their forks?

Plus bonus questions; just how important is it to use the right weight oil? Will using 10w when it calls for 5w make the fork explode like something out of Macguyver, or will I not notice a difference?
 
fjohn860

fjohn860

Alice in diaperland
"Oil Weight" is a terrible unit of measurement to rely on for oils for dampers and bath oil.

One companies 5w can be another's 10w, so it can potentially make a big difference.

The viscosity measurement method you need to focus on is centistokes (cSt)

EDIT: This is sometimes harder to find, but it is listed either in the SDS or the TDS
 
mike14

mike14

Likes Bikes and Dirt
fjohn860 said:
"Oil Weight" is a terrible unit of measurement to rely on for oils for dampers and bath oil.

One companies 5w can be another's 10w, so it can potentially make a big difference.

The viscosity measurement method you need to focus on is centistokes (cSt)

EDIT: This is sometimes harder to find, but it is listed either in the SDS or the TDS
Click to expand...
Sweet. Now I'm even more confused :)
 
Mattyp

Mattyp

Cows go boing
mike14 said:
Does anyone know where the DVO tech manuals are (not the setup ones)? Can't seem to find them on their site.
Or, does anyone know the oil amounts for their forks?

Plus bonus questions; just how important is it to use the right weight oil? Will using 10w when it calls for 5w make the fork explode like something out of Macguyver, or will I not notice a difference?
Click to expand...
Is it the Onyx one you're after? send me a PM with an email address and I'll forward it when I get home later.
Motorex is the recommended brand and what they use at DVOnz.
Pretty sure the Lowers need 40cc of 7.5w fork oil in each leg according to the manual, but I use Supergliss 100k.
Damper oil is 2.5w, unsure of quantity but full obviously...
Using a thicker damper oil will give you more dampening, in a world of fully-open LSC knobs, probably not what you're after.
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
mike14 said:
Does anyone know where the DVO tech manuals are (not the setup ones)? Can't seem to find them on their site.
Or, does anyone know the oil amounts for their forks?

Plus bonus questions; just how important is it to use the right weight oil? Will using 10w when it calls for 5w make the fork explode like something out of Macguyver, or will I not notice a difference?
Click to expand...
Look at the top header, under 'service guides'

In my Onyx, I was Using Fox Gold, then Motorex Supergliss100, then Motorex Supergliss68, now on Motorex 2.5 Racing fork oil.

Service Guides | DVO Suspension Tech Website

tech.dvosuspension.com tech.dvosuspension.com
 
sane

sane

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Exploding bearings again in my world. Can anyone suggest where I can find somewhere in Melbourne to buy enduro 688 bearings to get rolling again quickly?
 
Mattyp

Mattyp

Cows go boing
MTB direct have stock, but if this is an ongoing thing, probably go to a bearing shop, give them the dimensions and get SKF / NTN branded ones.

Screenshot_20231023-091836.png
 
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