Jason, Jason, Jason.
The QUICK question thread.....
- Thread starter Minlak
- Start date
Use a designed for this purpose expanding puller, in lieu of spending hundreds of $ a masonry anchor that you wind out to pick up the ID. Then pulllllll.
Jpez
Down on the left!
I know. I know..
SummitFever
Eats Squid
Heat is your friend. After heating it up you may be able to pry the bearings out by very carefully using a screwdriver with the tip in the bearing groove. If you can get it to move slightly, then go around in very small increments as you don't want the bearing to cock in the hole. Otherwise, as Dales says, get an expanding masonary anchor that fits, but you don't need to pull - just hammer it out using a drift from the other side.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Of course not...nobody would want that.
Tried the old expanding cock trick?
dazz
Downhill Dazz
Another option is to drop in a thick washer of appropriate dimensions and TIG weld the outer to it. Needs a delicate touch though, masonry anchor and some heat sounds like the best bet.
If you start getting angry with it, take 5 min out and watch this:
For some reason when I read 'cock in the hole' I instantly thought of 'caulk in the hole'...
If you start getting angry with it, take 5 min out and watch this:
For some reason when I read 'cock in the hole' I instantly thought of 'caulk in the hole'...
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pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Once...it's both an hilarious and tragic story too long and not suitable for this forum, while also being an outrageous boast.
Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
That sounds like a solid idea, I'll measure up what's left of the bearings and see if Bunnings have something big enough to work
Have blowtorch, can hotify
Only thing I'd worry about is heating it too much and annealing the aluminium. I'll have to be careful with the application of hots
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moorey
call me Mia
Where is Plank and what have you done to him?
Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
He's annealed aluminium before, and he doesn't want to ruin a potentially very difficult to replace linkage. Too much hots makes aluminium softer than stans crest rims
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dazz
Downhill Dazz
That takes a LOT of heat! Soft flame and you're fine.He's annealed aluminium before, and he doesn't want to ruin a potentially very difficult to replace linkage. Too much hots makes aluminium softer than stans crest rims
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We use these all the time at work and have never had an issue:
Nice 'fluffy' flame.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Play it safe @Plankosaurus and use the hair dryer.
Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
I've used a butane torch in the past and managed to make alloy more malleable than i wanted, I'd hazard a guess that the map torch would apply more hots than the cheapo butane one that cant melt silver solder.
I'll give it a whizz gently and see how i go
MAP can melt 6000 series aluminium.
Plankosaurus
Spongeplank Dalepantski
What's the worst that could happen?
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Sent from my H8324 using Tapatalk
Litenbror
Eats Squid
I'll be waiting patiently in the fwits thread.What's the worst that could happen?
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dazz
Downhill Dazz
Put a bit of oil on the ally, heat gently and if the oil starts smoking, STOP. Your goal is to heat the whole thing, the aluminium has about twice the CTE of steel so as you go up in temp, the degree of interference fit is reduced. Actually, I have an idea that might work, PM incoming!What's the worst that could happen?
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pink poodle
気が狂っている男
dazz
Downhill Dazz
I'm gonna share my idea here as even if Plank doesn't use it I think it's not a bad one to keep up the sleeve for situation like this.
1 - take the old inner races and balls (ideally need the balls from 2 bearings), turf the cages. Alternatively, like Plank has there, cut the outer race off the 2 bearings from the other side to get an inner race and a bunch of balls (I'm assuming he's gonna replace 'em anyways)
2 - grind a ball loading slot in one side of the inner race.
3 - assemble the modified inner and balls into one of the stuck outer races like you would for a full complement bearing
4 - push the bearing out
5 - rinse and repeat as needed
1 - take the old inner races and balls (ideally need the balls from 2 bearings), turf the cages. Alternatively, like Plank has there, cut the outer race off the 2 bearings from the other side to get an inner race and a bunch of balls (I'm assuming he's gonna replace 'em anyways)
2 - grind a ball loading slot in one side of the inner race.
3 - assemble the modified inner and balls into one of the stuck outer races like you would for a full complement bearing
4 - push the bearing out
5 - rinse and repeat as needed
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