Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
I ran a modified VN V6 for years, tyres used to last me a couple of months, I bounced that motor off the rev limiter nearly every day .

I didn't even bother putting mags on it because replacing tyres bigger than 14s would have made me go broke. :D
Good Ol' Uncle Pete has a VN with the V6 bored out to 4.2L and quite often embarrasses those who think they know.

But he's also the one with hard springs and soft dampers in his VE. Read that as you will.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
That's pretty scary. How much of that is due to having a cast impeller vs a forged/stamped one.

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If the cooling system was designed well and maintained they seem to last as long as each other. Pretty sure most cavitation is caused by a restriction in the inlet of the water pump, possibly a particularly clogged radiator or inlet hose sucking in, and then the acidic coolant that people never change finishes them off.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Except if you track a BMW M Motorsport car where plastic impellers have been known to explode and the warranty won't cover you for track use. Audi, VW and non GT Porsches are also track shy.

AMG, Porsche Motorsport (GT cars) and Maclaren cover you for non-competitive track use. Not sure about Alpine, Renault RS and Nissan.

I wouldn't even bother asking a Stellantis or Ferrari dealer.

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You most likely need to slow the pumps down with a bigger pulley, they're not designed to be held at almost full throttle most of the time. It's the same with belt-driven pumps on most old cars, the water pumps end up exploding if you hold the revs up too long. I'd imagine that most people would go to electric pumps these days.
 

Chriso_29er

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Except if you track a BMW M Motorsport car where plastic impellers have been known to explode and the warranty won't cover you for track use. Audi, VW and non GT Porsches are also track shy
What! I can assure you that an M is covered for track use, also never heard of this exploding impeller business.
 

Oddjob

Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
What! I can assure you that an M is covered for track use, also never heard of this exploding impeller business.
Have you blown up your BMW at the track and had it covered? I've seen people who have blown theirs up and it's not covered.

The E46 and E90 are famous for their water pump failures. I've personally seen a pump failure on track lead to a cracked block by the time the car made it back to the pits.

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Haakon

has an accommodating arse
I have heard beemers are a bit fragile, but I thought it was jsut earlier cars from when plastic impellers were relatively new tech. And if you use a decent brand of pump they’re fine now?
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
Have you blown up your BMW at the track and had it covered? I've seen people who have blown theirs up and it's not covered.

The E46 and E90 are famous for their water pump failures. I've personally seen a pump failure on track lead to a cracked block by the time the car made it back to the pits.

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It's only on the older models, most of the new ones have an electric pump.

You can buy pumps with steel impellers anyway.

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The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Anyone want to buy a Proper Mini? Economic pressure dictates that I need to sell my long-term project 1970 "Pseudo S". :( It's not a genuine Cooper S but has been tweaked to mostly replicate one. 1330cc engine with 45mm Weber DCOE twin-throat carb, 12" wheels with big (for a Mini) 8.4" vented disc brakes on the front.
 

Chriso_29er

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Have you blown up your BMW at the track and had it covered? I've seen people who have blown theirs up and it's not covered.

The E46 and E90 are famous for their water pump failures. I've personally seen a pump failure on track lead to a cracked block by the time the car made it back to the pits.

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There would be other factors if not covered. After 15 years, never seen an issue with track day work on M's since the E90/92.
On another note, fuck I miss the E90, best sound ever.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Anyone want to buy a Proper Mini? Economic pressure dictates that I need to sell my long-term project 1970 "Pseudo S". :( It's not a genuine Cooper S but has been tweaked to mostly replicate one. 1330cc engine with 45mm Weber DCOE twin-throat carb, 12" wheels with big (for a Mini) 8.4" vented disc brakes on the front.
Square front? We had a 1275LS for many years.
 

cammas

Seamstress
So all this talk of water pumps has me thinking, been trying to problem solve an issue with our FG Falcon. Heater is not working, no heat, so did the usual FG problem, heater control rod, HIM unit and changed the thermostat, which have not fixed the issue. So tinkering around in the engine bay, drop the fan belt to check the water pump for any slop, grinding noise, etc but nothing, when I changed the thermostat I changed the coolant and gave it a flush, surprisingly not that dirty when flushing it. I also checked for error codes and nothing there either.

This morning I started it up and let it run for few minutes now the engine side of the radiator hoses are hot and as I slide my hand down the hose its getting colder, once I get to the radiator its stone cold, top and bottom are the same. The temp gauge is reading fine, it does go up a little when stuck in slow moving peak hour traffic but that's it.

I need to replace the idler pulley and fan belt, may look at doing the tensioner as well

Now before I go pulling off the water pump and replacing it, is there anything I am over looking?
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
So all this talk of water pumps has me thinking, been trying to problem solve an issue with our FG Falcon. Heater is not working, no heat, so did the usual FG problem, heater control rod, HIM unit and changed the thermostat, which have not fixed the issue. So tinkering around in the engine bay, drop the fan belt to check the water pump for any slop, grinding noise, etc but nothing, when I changed the thermostat I changed the coolant and gave it a flush, surprisingly not that dirty when flushing it. I also checked for error codes and nothing there either.

This morning I started it up and let it run for few minutes now the engine side of the radiator hoses are hot and as I slide my hand down the hose its getting colder, once I get to the radiator its stone cold, top and bottom are the same. The temp gauge is reading fine, it does go up a little when stuck in slow moving peak hour traffic but that's it.

I need to replace the idler pulley and fan belt, may look at doing the tensioner as well

Now before I go pulling off the water pump and replacing it, is there anything I am over looking?
When you say cool on the radiator end of the hoses, are you meaning the main radiator (behind the grille/bumper) - or the heater core?
 

cammas

Seamstress
When you say cool on the radiator end of the hoses, are you meaning the main radiator (behind the grille/bumper) - or the heater core?
The main radiator, heater hoses are warm to hot but the heater only blows out luke-warm air, my thinking is the water is not flowing through the system and the coolant is only hot on the engine side of everything.
 
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