4dabush
Likes Dirt
Few more Cylinders in this one than an Opel…
Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.
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Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Quantity over quality?
Seriously though, that’s a solid investment. I never personally saw the appeal in those poorly engineered things, but nostalgia means you’ll make a solid return on it.
Wish I’d bought a bunch back when they were worthless and stashed them down the back paddock of the family farm!
Very nice, not many 2 doors around now.
What's the engine plan?
4dabush
Likes Dirt
Resto-mod, so injected alloy headed 304, T5 5speed, 9inch with fully adjustable trailing arms, 4 wheel discs with Hoppers 290mm discs up front, Koni/Kings suspension, 16inch super light wheels, AC, full leather trim based on late Honda style using modded Gemini and i30 seats... only things I have not done myself is trim and motor…only didn’t do the motor as I spent too much to risk and blueprinting compared to dollars into it made lots of sense. I’ll probably get a hand with the wiring and AC I obviously can’t gas at home.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Perfectly legal if using HyChill.
Very nice, will be awesome.
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
Is that the proper tangerine?
4dabush
Likes Dirt
Awesome guess, yes, 100% Dulon AAA, painted where you see it. I’m not good with 2k and while painting at home is a no no, acrylic is a little less offensive.
Cardy George
Piercing rural members since 1981
I've mentioned it before, my uncle had an XU1 in that colour. Until someone decided they wanted it more than he did. He was devastated.
4dabush
Likes Dirt
Not really…try Cairns…couldn’t get much further away!
Meh, 149 grey motor with triple SUs. Should make 100kW.
Seriously a balanced injected black motor with stage 3 head (originals were an equivalent to a stage 1 from memory) should make 300kW.
Seriously a balanced injected black motor with stage 3 head (originals were an equivalent to a stage 1 from memory) should make 300kW.
MasterOfReality
After forever
Making progress with the 5 speed conversion.
Goodbye dirty dirty auto:
Hello new Tremec:
Gearbox level:
Drivetrain appears straight (harmonic balancer to diff pinion):
All that's needed is to refit driveshaft (got it rebuilt and balanced by Hardy Spicer), hook up clutch cable, wire in the neutral safety switch and reverse lights and fill box with oil.
I suspect the exhaust will foul the bellhousing, so I'll see if I can persuade it with the blow torch and hammer as a short term fix.
Edit - fitting the gearbox was one of the most infuriating and swear inducing things I have ever done. The clearance isn't enough to slide the input shaft past the pressure plate fingers, so had to sort of jack it up at an angle and push it forward at the same time to force it past the fingers. Then try to match the box angle with the motor (has to be 100%), then at the same time slightly wiggling the output shaft and trying to push the box forward to engage the clutch splines. Sounds dirty haha.
Goodbye dirty dirty auto:
Hello new Tremec:
Gearbox level:
Drivetrain appears straight (harmonic balancer to diff pinion):
All that's needed is to refit driveshaft (got it rebuilt and balanced by Hardy Spicer), hook up clutch cable, wire in the neutral safety switch and reverse lights and fill box with oil.
I suspect the exhaust will foul the bellhousing, so I'll see if I can persuade it with the blow torch and hammer as a short term fix.
Edit - fitting the gearbox was one of the most infuriating and swear inducing things I have ever done. The clearance isn't enough to slide the input shaft past the pressure plate fingers, so had to sort of jack it up at an angle and push it forward at the same time to force it past the fingers. Then try to match the box angle with the motor (has to be 100%), then at the same time slightly wiggling the output shaft and trying to push the box forward to engage the clutch splines. Sounds dirty haha.
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You should be able to sell the auto. Probably worth $3.00
MasterOfReality
After forever
I have the nose off the track car, map or other (one code suits many). Suspect lack of volume so I am fitting a vacuum vessel. Oh what fun pulling itbs off a fwd car.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
I have somehow in the process of hooking a battery up to the laid up Megane so I could open the boot (electric latch...) managed to lock the keys in...
Must have somehow defaulted to lock with the door open when i disconnected power or something, and then I've not noticed they were locked when i closed the doors. Oh well, lets see if an eBay inflatable wedge and a long length of wire to reach the central locking button will work! And hopefully not irretrievably bend the door frame.
Must have somehow defaulted to lock with the door open when i disconnected power or something, and then I've not noticed they were locked when i closed the doors. Oh well, lets see if an eBay inflatable wedge and a long length of wire to reach the central locking button will work! And hopefully not irretrievably bend the door frame.
Just thought I would share this frustration here.
On my auto CX5 when you put it in park the gear stick shaft presses a button to let the car know it can be switched off. Mazda decided to make the switch out of plastic but with a rubber tip for some reason. Over time the tip wears a groove in the rubber meaning when you put it in park, even though the engine can turn off, all of the accessories like aircon and radio stay on draining the battery. As it gets worse you have to smash it across harder or force it in position to get it to switch off. I had seen you could buy the replacement part, which is now fully plastic, but when I took my switch out I ripped off the rubber piece which left a hole in the plastic. I put a small cable tie through the hole with the knob where the groove was and then another cable tie around the plastic switch to keep the first cable tie knob poking up. Works perfect.
On my auto CX5 when you put it in park the gear stick shaft presses a button to let the car know it can be switched off. Mazda decided to make the switch out of plastic but with a rubber tip for some reason. Over time the tip wears a groove in the rubber meaning when you put it in park, even though the engine can turn off, all of the accessories like aircon and radio stay on draining the battery. As it gets worse you have to smash it across harder or force it in position to get it to switch off. I had seen you could buy the replacement part, which is now fully plastic, but when I took my switch out I ripped off the rubber piece which left a hole in the plastic. I put a small cable tie through the hole with the knob where the groove was and then another cable tie around the plastic switch to keep the first cable tie knob poking up. Works perfect.
Haakon
has an accommodating arse
I bet they got a small perceived quality in the shifter feel with the rubber bit. Sometimes engineers need to be held down and stopped from fiddling!