I knew someone a decade ago who was a well regarded engine builder for Andra drag racers.My understanding was that it was developed in Japan and has taken off in motorsport in the US with the process often being applied to rods, pistons, cams and gearsets.
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You're telling the story.Micropeening
More of a novellaYou're telling the story.
Short story?More of a novella
A lot of time can be spent making jigs and fixtures to let you do the job. When I was machining the bores of the Ram tubes to match the throttle bodies for the xr4 I had to make an adapter that the tubes bolted to. Took 3 hours all up and then the machining was about 60 seconds per piece!I have a chinese 10 x 20'lathe, had it for a year and am learning meself to do stuff with it. Recent efforts include turning down a whisker off a OneUp mini EDC tool holder because it wouldn't seat in my new fork. Tricky to hold it in the chuck, just a bit at the bottom needed slimming down so I got a piece of Delrin and bored it to snugly fit the EDC tool holder with a firm push in by hand. Chucked it in the chuck and turned it down a little but at a time until it fit nicely in the fork.
Plug handle finished.Did talk about this a while back after breaking a plastic one off in the lever.
Finally got some spare time to make it.
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Still need to do some polishing/finishing and turn the handle for the plunger/plug
Dayum son.
Yes it should be mounted the other way in a pressure situation. I leak tested it with the cup full for a few hours and there was no leakage (it is a pretty tight tolerance fit in the funnel). Initially I was worried about the seal sliding off the end of the handle, but there is enough of a step that it shouldn't.Dayum son.
Query though - should the lip-seal not be mounted the other way round? I guess there's not really much pressure at play, but it seems like the fluid might leak past the seal that way...? Probably fine either way for the tiny fluid volume and only gravity pressure realistically.
Yes it should be mounted the other way in a pressure situation. I leak tested it with the cup full for a few hours and there was no leakage (it is a pretty tight tolerance fit in the funnel). Initially I was worried about the seal sliding off the end of the handle, but there is enough of a step that it shouldn't.
Any suggestions on lighting for a lathe? the light in my shed is pretty shite and I've got old man eyes. I've got a 60mm LED fluoro I was planning on mounting it centrally along the lathe axis with some aluminium uprights screwed into chip guard at the back.
I missed this first time around. I have a light above the lathe and also one of these.You want a big light source to minimise shadows. One of the LED ceiling lights for grid ceilings that's half the drop in tile size is great. Still want to add a point source that's behind the tail stock shining into the work piece so when you're working deep, you can see what you are doing.
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You want a big light source to minimise shadows. One of the LED ceiling lights for grid ceilings that's half the drop in tile size is great. Still want to add a point source that's behind the tail stock shining into the work piece so when you're working deep, you can see what you are doing.
Thanks for the comments, sorry I chucked a sneaky edit in after my original post, which made this hard to see. The LED fluoro is 600mm long not 60! so I'll go with that for the moment for overhead as I aleady have it but I'll get some of those half tile panels down the track and replace some of the other fluoros in the shed too. I did get an old fashioned adjustable arm lamp with it, but havent worked out where they had it mounted yet even though theres a machined bracket for it but no corresponding holes on the lathe or stand. I'll try clamping it off the back corner of the swarf tray and see how it goes.I missed this first time around. I have a light above the lathe and also one of these.
HL57L 5700K LED Work Light - Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse
I have it positioned such that I can use it on the lathe and also the mill.