pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Do you have a stethoscope?
The QUICK question thread.....
- Thread starter Minlak
- Start date
Do you have a stethoscope?
nzhumpy
Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Geez, well done finding it. Where was it located?
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
That is a suspicious amount of tape.
If you haven't destroyed the tracker, perhaps find a good spot to leave it for them to find?
If you haven't destroyed the tracker, perhaps find a good spot to leave it for them to find?
nzhumpy
Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
Under the seat, duct tape then electrical over the top to make it look like the seat. Had the post out trying to fix the cable tension and spotted it, was pretty well camouflaged.
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Yeah, wow. You'd hope it's an innocent mistake, but who would forget they had put a tracker on their bike?
nzhumpy
Googlemeister who likes bikes and scandal
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Yes you have.
rockmoose
his flabber is totally gastered
A random, passing methhead would work.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Good luck with randomly touching a passing meathead.
birddog69
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Good luck getting your hands clean after touching.Good luck with randomly touching a passing meathead.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Just coat it in a few crushed up cold and flu pills. They'll gladly take it for you.Good luck with randomly touching a passing meathead.
yuley95
soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
So, I need a Shimano expert to help out (@The Duckmeister I’m looking at you). Basically, when looking for cranks recently, I bought Shimano SLX m7100. They claim a chain line of 52mm. Seems strange to me but the chainline changes with the crank model so the m7120 is a 55mm chainIine for example.
My Kavenz likes to run either 49mm, 50.5mm or 52mm to line up properly with the idler, so I bought the m7100.
I fitted a XTR chainring that I had in the shed (not sure I can give any more detail on that but can look…)
When I think fitted it to my bike, it became obvious the chainline was actually 49mm as i had to run the idler as close to the frame as possible to line it up properly. No probs - all good.
Until now… I just fitted a larger idler and if needs to sit out 1.5mm from the frame so it clears the seatstay. I’m therefore running a 50.5mm chainline which is ok but creates a slight angle back to the chainring. Seems to run fine and doesn’t make noise so I’m happy to leave it but just wondering if i can potentially run different chainrings to get a different chainline.
I used to run one up switch chainring on a different bike and it was the carrier for that system that determined the chainline and if it was boost or not.
Anyway, any suggestions welcome
My Kavenz likes to run either 49mm, 50.5mm or 52mm to line up properly with the idler, so I bought the m7100.
I fitted a XTR chainring that I had in the shed (not sure I can give any more detail on that but can look…)
When I think fitted it to my bike, it became obvious the chainline was actually 49mm as i had to run the idler as close to the frame as possible to line it up properly. No probs - all good.
Until now… I just fitted a larger idler and if needs to sit out 1.5mm from the frame so it clears the seatstay. I’m therefore running a 50.5mm chainline which is ok but creates a slight angle back to the chainring. Seems to run fine and doesn’t make noise so I’m happy to leave it but just wondering if i can potentially run different chainrings to get a different chainline.
I used to run one up switch chainring on a different bike and it was the carrier for that system that determined the chainline and if it was boost or not.
Anyway, any suggestions welcome
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Not totally in tune with the 12-sp. stuff sorry, been out of the trade for 12 months now, and before that two years of Covid shit fucking up supply chains meant I didn't really get the chance to have a proper play with any of it. I think the difference between M7100 & M7120 is that one is compatible with 2x rings (yes, they do produce a 2x12 option, although I doubt any of it gets here), so that will alter the alignment of the mounting boss on the crank relative to the frame, thus moving the chainline out. Shimano chainrings are the same for standard or boost spacing; it's the crank that varies to shift the chainline - Boost-spec cranks have a -B suffix on the model number (e.g. FC-M7100-B). The **20 variants, as well as being multi-ring compatible, have a wider Q-factor (lateral pedal spacing, which is quite separate from chainline).
Over the years Shimano have been known to do weird stuff with XTR cranks & rings, which can make them a poor match with lesser species. I don't know if this applies to 12-sp, but given past form I wouldn't be surprised if the chainring isn't sitting where the crank expects it to be.
PS: edited for more stuff.
Over the years Shimano have been known to do weird stuff with XTR cranks & rings, which can make them a poor match with lesser species. I don't know if this applies to 12-sp, but given past form I wouldn't be surprised if the chainring isn't sitting where the crank expects it to be.
PS: edited for more stuff.
Last edited:
yuley95
soft-arse Yuley is on the lifts again
Thanks for the response. I think you are right with all that - particularly the statement that the chainring isn’t sitting where the crank expects it to be…
I’ve been reading a bit since posting and also took and vernier calipers to the chainring. I reckon the crank is sold on the assumption of fitting any current standard shimano chainring which are all boost and it seems to me the XTR chainring I have is essentially making them non-boost.
It’s about 8mm from crank mounting face to the centre of the teeth and I found blackspire stating that their direct mount chainrings for Shimano are 5mm from mounting face to centre of the teeth. That seems to explain the situation pretty well.
Fred Nurk
No custom title here
So it appears I've finally managed to wear out the drive side bearing on my Hope BB.
Dutifully took it to local LBS who popped the dust covers off and stated that they're probably custom Hope bearings and that I'm better off buying another BB instead. No discernable markings on the bearings apart from the word Hope.
BB is a BSA / 24mm Race Face / Shimano type. Anyone have any idea if the Enduro 37 24 7 bearings will do the trick, or are they really some custom Hope standard?
Dutifully took it to local LBS who popped the dust covers off and stated that they're probably custom Hope bearings and that I'm better off buying another BB instead. No discernable markings on the bearings apart from the word Hope.
BB is a BSA / 24mm Race Face / Shimano type. Anyone have any idea if the Enduro 37 24 7 bearings will do the trick, or are they really some custom Hope standard?
Flow-Rider
Burner
Get them to knock one out and take it to a bearing shop.
Hope bb bearings from memory are replaceable.
Spec you listed matches up with the Hope one
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Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
Hope bbs have fucking awful bearings. Go to a bearing shop and get some Japanese bearings in the relevant size.
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Calvin27
Eats Squid
Anyone had experience running these?
www.cyclingdeal.com.au
Not sure of the science, but I assumed that the whole idea of qr is it compresses axially and thus there are knurly bits on the ends of the hub to grab it. This one doesn't. Anyone used these extensively without issues?
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Not sure of the science, but I assumed that the whole idea of qr is it compresses axially and thus there are knurly bits on the ends of the hub to grab it. This one doesn't. Anyone used these extensively without issues?