The QUICK question thread.....

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
A mate tried to just give his a wash and redo but it looked like shit where the sun had affected the old finish and where it hadn't. The old stuff looked fairly uniform and it didn't have areas of oxidised timber and gruff nuts. He had to strip it all back but maybe that is product specific. Best bet is to just wash down a couple of spots and do a test...
 

shiny

Go-go-gadget-wrist-thingy
Tiling. Our deck used to cop a lot of heat in summer. The shaded part vs. exposed part sure looked better.
Unfortunately, it had to go. The summer afternoon sun eats everything
Yup. Our deck is North facing and sloping block so elevated off the ground. Deck is length of the house so long. Looks great but oiling it is a big job. Zip track blinds shade it on sunny days. Picture of my big deck for attention; :p

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pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Who knows how big it really is though... there's nothing in there for perspective. It could just be smoke and mirrors.
 

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Quick Question: Is Starship going to make it off the launch pad in half an hour?

 

indica

Serial flasher

Jpez

Down on the left!
Yup. Our deck is North facing and sloping block so elevated off the ground. Deck is length of the house so long. Looks great but oiling it is a big job. Zip track blinds shade it on sunny days. Picture of my big deck for attention; :p

View attachment 398856
Just a couple of general FYI’s for anyone interested.
The trick with big decks like that is oiling 2-3 boards at a time the entire length so you don’t end up with patchy sections where you’ve finished and started again. Sanding is an absolute last resort and I’ve never needed to except for Victorian Jarrah verandah boards. And only if all the screws/nails can be screwed/punched down below flush.
I steer clear of water based stuff. It’s rubbish and produces the peel up you see as it’s just a surface coating like clear paint.
Expensive but I only ever used Cutek oil or for cheaper jobs Feast and Watson oil. Oil needs to penetrate deeply to nourish the boards. Not just sit on top. I use these two after years of trial and error.
I did a test on Iron bark a few years ago where I painted on a few types of oil I had left over from jobs and then cut through the timber.
Cutek had penetrated far more than any other.
This one is clear Cutek with no tint so it’s weathered into a lovely grey now
156F0052-D166-4879-BE75-21EC5F0E399D.jpeg
And this is Feast and Watson.
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creaky

XMAS Plumper
So @Jpez - hypothetically if some slack ass had left their open decking (spotted gum from memory) to 'grey off' after the initial oiling 5 years ago and then never treated it again resulting in weathering .... would a soaking oil like Cutek be the best option to avoid a major resanding job?
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
So @Jpez - hypothetically if some slack ass had left their open decking (spotted gum from memory) to 'grey off' after the initial oiling 5 years ago and then never treated it again resulting in weathering .... would a soaking oil like Cutek be the best option to avoid a major resanding job?
A really good and thorough pressure wash and prep wash should be all it needs. Deck boards end up cupped and twisted so to get a consistent level sand you’ll need to take off quite a bit meaning your 19mm boards are now 17 or something. Plus you’ll hVe to get the screws down which will mean snapping a few or having to pull them out and countersink further. Nope. Sanding is not the way.
 

Freediver

I can go full Karen
So @Jpez - hypothetically if some slack ass had left their open decking (spotted gum from memory) to 'grey off' after the initial oiling 5 years ago and then never treated it again resulting in weathering .... would a soaking oil like Cutek be the best option to avoid a major resanding job?
Scrub with detergent, hose it off and then scrub it with oxalic acid. Wear your PPE with the oxalic acid, it's nasty on your hand and probably worse in your eyes.
@Jpez what do you think about adding some turps to the first coat when varnishing or oiling for better penetration. I've been doing this on wooden spearguns and it seems to work well but I've never done the cut test like yours to test the theory.
 

creaky

XMAS Plumper
Sanding is not the way.
I like your plan, for those reasons, and laziness. I've got a few boards to repair first but then might grab some cutek.

Which one of the below options would be more appropriate for the open decking?




I've got about 45m2 of decking so would need minimum 5 litres from their specs for the above.

They make a 'restore' product also so might have to grab that for the cleaning process:


tttt.jpg
 

Freediver

I can go full Karen
I like your plan, for those reasons, and laziness. I've got a few boards to repair first but then might grab some cutek.

Which one of the below options would be more appropriate for the open decking?




I've got about 45m2 of decking so would need minimum 5 litres from their specs for the above.

They make a 'restore' product also so might have to grab that for the cleaning process:


View attachment 398892
I wasn't familiar with Cutek Restore so I had a google for the MSDS. It's oxalic acid with some other chemicals to help it penetrate.
 
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