The QUICK question thread.....

[SummitFever]

Pain in the quads is often caused by saddle too low. Pain in your palms could be caused by the wrong sweep on your bars or the bars being too wide or a combo of both.

 

[fjohn860]

Definitely worth trying different bar positions (rolling them back towards you etc)

Shorter stem or higher stem is the other option I guess.

Bar rise won't really bring the bars any closer, but might get you in a more upright position, so less pressure on your palms

 

[Squidfayce]

Pain in the quads is often caused by saddle too low. Pain in your palms could be caused by the wrong sweep on your bars or the bars being too wide or a combo of both.

Saddle position is fine where it is. Legs are good untill I move saddle forward. Moving it forward starts screwing with the knee/pedal position, that what then starts to hurt the quads. Probably more knees than quads.Different pain from riding it when it's low.

 

[Squidfayce]

Definitely worth trying different bar positions (rolling them back towards you etc)

Shorter stem or higher stem is the other option I guess.

Bar rise won't really bring the bars any closer, but might get you in a more upright position, so less pressure on your palms

Not sure I understand the rolling back aspect?

 

[fjohn860]

Not sure I understand the rolling back aspect?

You bars should have some lines and numbers in the middle at the front.

I used to run my bars rolled forward a fair bit, so the back sweep becomes a bit more up sweep and moves the grips away from you.

Rolling them back a bit so that they are a little "flatter" brings the grips closer to you.

 

[Squidfayce]

You bars should have some lines and numbers in the middle at the front.

I used to run my bars rolled forward a fair bit, so the back sweep becomes a bit more up sweep and moves the grips away from you.

Rolling them back a bit so that they are a little "flatter" brings the grips closer to you.

Gotcha. Pretty sure its as flat as it can get now.

Might need to look for a 30mm length stem or bars that sweep slightly more. Just concerned that the additional sweep may case a different issue

 

[Scotty675]

So I'm on an XL bike and I often get pain in my palms when riding. From what my research tells me, the reach could be a tad long.

Was thinking about things I can do to bring the reach in a bit.

Currently have a 35mm one up stem. And the shortest one I can probably get without going a PDent bar/stem combo is to go a renthal 30mm. But that renthal look is not my cup of tea.

What other options do I have to bring the reach in a bit? Would a higher rise help (have 20mm at the moment on the oneup bars). What about sweep? Worth experimenting with that? Are there 30mm stems that look good?

Ideally I'd love to buy one component and be done. Don't want to end up with 3 different bars and a spare stem.

Already tried saddle position. Its slammed back. Any adjustment forward, I start getting pain in the quads/kness after about 1km. So I don't think that's an option and that part feels dialled to me.

If your after 31.8 stems, I believe the industry 9 30mm and the chromag ranger 31mm look the best. Renthal and pro taper also do a 30mm. Spank split does a 33. There may be other brands but they are the ones I know. I9 probably the cosmetic winner for me

 

[beeb]

@Squidfayce - if you've got any spacers above your stem, try raising your bars - it will slightly relieve the pressure on your hands (it may have other mild effects on the handling obviously, but if it's an option - it's something that costs nothing but a little time to try...)

 

[Cardy George]

Saddle position is fine where it is. Legs are good untill I move saddle forward. Moving it forward starts screwing with the knee/pedal position, that what then starts to hurt the quads. Probably more knees than quads.Different pain from riding it when it's low.

Don't forget the seat tube is on an angle. So if you move the saddle forward, you're also effectively lowering it in regards to the relationship between your hips and the bottom bracket. Maybe try moving the saddle forward AND raising the post 1 or 2 mm.

It's worth a try to be pain free and you can always put it back.

 

[Tubbsy]

@Squidfayce - if you've got any spacers above your stem, try raising your bars - it will slightly relieve the pressure on your hands (it may have other mild effects on the handling obviously, but if it's an option - it's something that costs nothing but a little time to try...)

At @Squidface I was chatting with @beeb the other day about mild wrist pain while JRA, and a switch from 12mm risers to 45mm risers seems to have eliminated it entirely. The front end is a little light on really steep sections, but otherwise no drawbacks.

Listen to the good doctor's advice.

 

[beeb]

At @Squidface I was chatting with @beeb the other day about mild wrist pain while JRA, and a switch from 12mm risers to 45mm risers seems to have eliminated it entirely. The front end is a little light on really steep sections, but otherwise no drawbacks.

Listen to the good doctor's advice.

I feel like the Rotorburn agony aunt at this point.

 

[Tubbsy]

I feel like the Rotorburn agony aunt at this point.

Why should I have to think for myself.

 

[Minlak]

I feel like the Rotorburn agony aunt at this point.

I had erectile dysfunction and a quick chat to @beeb had me sorted in no time - And the pictures he sends are a handy reference for the future.

 

[Squidfayce]

If your after 31.8 stems, I believe the industry 9 30mm and the chromag ranger 31mm look the best. Renthal and pro taper also do a 30mm. Spank split does a 33. There may be other brands but they are the ones I know. I9 probably the cosmetic winner for me

bar's a 35mm oneup. I think that adds some limitations. turns out the Renthal 30mm legth wont fit the 35mm bar. Best i could find was a raceface 32mm. Will take a look at the others.

 

[Squidfayce]

Don't forget the seat tube is on an angle. So if you move the saddle forward, you're also effectively lowering it in regards to the relationship between your hips and the bottom bracket. Maybe try moving the saddle forward AND raising the post 1 or 2 mm.

It's worth a try to be pain free and you can always put it back.

oh wow...did not even cross my mind. THIS is excellent advice even if it doesn't work. Thanks. I will tray this on the weekend.

 

[Squidfayce]

At @Squidface I was chatting with @beeb the other day about mild wrist pain while JRA, and a switch from 12mm risers to 45mm risers seems to have eliminated it entirely. The front end is a little light on really steep sections, but otherwise no drawbacks.

Listen to the good doctor's advice.

@Squidfayce - if you've got any spacers above your stem, try raising your bars - it will slightly relieve the pressure on your hands (it may have other mild effects on the handling obviously, but if it's an option - it's something that costs nothing but a little time to try...)

I have a 5mm spacer then topcap. Can i run without a spacer between the stem and the topcap?

The bars are looking more the option (of cardy's suggestion isnt the solution). at least that way if i dont like it or it doesnt work, its a component thats not hard to get rid of.

 

[Squidfayce]

Why should I have to think for myself.

my thoughts exactly...wait...ARGH

 

[fjohn860]

I have a 5mm spacer then topcap. Can i run without a spacer between the stem and the topcap?

The bars are looking more the option (of cardy's suggestion isnt the solution). at least that way if i dont like it or it doesnt work, its a component thats not hard to get rid of.

Yes you can

 

[beeb]

I have a 5mm spacer then topcap. Can i run without a spacer between the stem and the topcap?

Yes you can

I'll go with a more cautious "sort of".

The upper bolt of the stem (where it clamps the steerer) needs to stay beneath the level of the top of the steerer tube inside the stem. Even then manufacturers don't recommend it (generally speaking, there's a few exceptions...). So it's often pretty tight to get the measurements right without those little 1 or 2mm stem spacers. Also, if your top cap is stepped internally (they typically are as it helps to locate it/centre on the stem spacers), so you'll also need clearance for that, plus an additional ~1-2mm extra to not bottom out on the steerer when using using the steerer/top cap bolt to preload the headset bearings (I've done that before... Wondered why the headset felt slightly loose even when the topcap bolt was tight AF)).

So yeah, often the steerer tube needs to be ~3mm below the top of the stem, but the upper stem bolt still needs to sit beneath the top of the steerer. Some stems allow heaps of room for this, others pretty much won't (safely) work. Also if you're using a very lightweight or heavily machined stem that has a cutaway under the upper stem bolt, the clamping area can deform if you overdo it on the clamp bolts (just ask ol' gorilla-hands here how he knows...).

 

[beeb]

Case in point:

The Renthal stem on the left, you could chance it if you had the perfect spacer combo, but it'd still be a little sketchy with such a heavily machined (flexy) stem. I've done it with that exact stem and it felt sketchy AF. Whereas the old Hope DH stem on the right has heaps of room to play with (basically has equivalent to a 3mm stem spacer built into the top of it), has three stem bolts, and is solid as a rock. I wouldn't have any hesitation doing it with it.