Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

Plow King

Little bit.
OK. I am talking from a recent and current experience here. Hopefully this will help you understand what you and everyone is talking about.

Me and my Dad went halves in an $8000 VS Commo Ute III. We test drove it, had it checked out by a mate who is a mechanic and we generally know our stuff. Driving it from Wagga to Canberra after purchase, the clutch starts slipping and the gearbox is clearly shat. We soon find out the reverse switch on the box is shot, the bendix drive in the starter motor is f**cked and the rear suspension bushes are buggared. The brake pads are on the way out and the previous owner didnt do any maintence for a very long time by the looks. After some general maintence and some help from Tony we are $1200 worse off.

We did our research and did all the right things when we were looking and also thought buying an expensive car would be less an issue than a cheap one. We were wrong and while we didnt pay full price for the repairs its definetly hurt my pocket. Expensive first cars and second hand cars in general always have problems. Buy a cheapy and your wallet ends up better off.

Trust me.
As i said there are exceptions to that rule but GENERALLY a newer more expensive car is gonna have a shitload less issues than a cheap old car?

i just got rid of my old gx liberty after having a reasonable quick RS liberty. underpowered awd is for the lose. not fun at all and a waste of time as far as im concerned. not even enough power to get you out of trouble (in the wet sometimes power is the answer). forget "getting used to" (underpowered) awd. it is like getting used to a lazy boy. doesn't take any skill or effort

step 1: buy old rolla with blown headgasket off someone who doesn't know shit
step 2: fix head gasket (<100 from autobarns)
step 3: bombproof and you have a car for <$500 that you don't care if it gets driven into etc.

alternative is buy something (anything) <1000 for your first car. spending any more a) makes you look like a wanker and b) is a waste because it will get scratched/driven into/drive into stuff etetc etc
Yeah, I might start looking into the RS 2.5 Version although they're more expensive I dare say I would have some more fun in it. Plus when im off my { P's I can always throw a turbo in it :D

Has anyone got any recomendations for any good cars that are p plate legal for around 11-12-13k?

I should mention that I have been driving for over 2 years so I'm not exactly a terrible driver. The work I do at the moment essentially has me driving all over the shop in big izuzu fuckers.

I gave it to a friend, for various reasons, but I could have easily have sold it for what I paid for it. That's no loss. When your buying a dirt cheap car (and even though I'm crapping on about this, this may not be the best option for you) your buying something that's already done all it's depreciating.

The two biggest costs in buying a newer car are depreciation and interest on the loan. If your parents are happy to put it on their home loan, then that's awesome. But I ,like you, have looked at vehicles in the past and thought that they hadn't depreciated much in the year I had been looking at them, but then when it came time to sell I was never able to get my money back. Perhaps you will have better luck than I have had?

I drew up a car cost calculator in excel that covered a five year period and included things like insurance, depreciation, running/servicing costs, fuel consumption and interests paid on loans that was a huge help to me when I was looking at different cars. Maybe it's something you could look into. You would not believe how much more my second-hand XR6 turbo ute was costing compared to a brand new small car or even a little shit box.

I don't normally post in this thread, but I'm personally familiar the logic your using. And, I may be looking for a second car in the price range your looking in the near future.
Thanks alot for your reply and I've spent a fair bit of time saving up this 6-7k and I was looking forward to getting an impreza so I didnt really have the need to own any car I wanted a nice one. It doesnt neccesarily have to be the fastest, one that handels well, has decent resale and is roomy and comfortable (pretty sure the impreza ticks all boxes)
 

Mattydv

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Slightly off topic, but does anyone know if there is an option to take out daily insurance at Eastern Creek track days?
I'm thinking of heading down next Wednesday, but a fear of crashing and not being covered is stopping me since it's not my car...

I've browsed a few sites, but have been unable to find anything.

Also, does anyone know how much rubber I'd be likely to burn? I'd be in a fwd...
 
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mitchy-b

Likes Dirt
thoughts on ke70 corollas? thinking about getting one, and maybe throw in a 4age?
is it a direct bolt in job, without too much mucking around and will a 4age have plenty of power with a few minor mods, maybe an exhaust and webbers?
thanks guys mb
 

Breaka

Likes Bikes and Dirt
thoughts on ke70 corollas? thinking about getting one, and maybe throw in a 4age?
is it a direct bolt in job, without too much mucking around and will a 4age have plenty of power with a few minor mods, maybe an exhaust and webbers?
thanks guys mb
Judging by this post I think you've over simplified things.

There's sooo much information available on the internet regaurding xE7x 4A conversion's. Go check out some build threads in various forums and then have a think about it.
 

donthucktoflat

Eats Squid
Plow king, personally I would wait. Get a banger and wait. You will be able to afford a much nicer car in the long run and trust me. It is never just "throwing a turbo on" there's alot of work involved. Think turbo, computer, manifolds, intercooler, upgraded clutch, gearbox (usually), driveshafts, fuel pump, injectors etc etc a proper turbo conversion Is hardly ever economical or worth the expense.

Also worth mentioning that it will probably take a while and ou ate gonna need a shitter to drive around while all the work is being done anyway.
 

Ivan

Eats Squid
Anyone have any tips on how to get an old 2 stroke exhaust with surface rust all nice and shiny again?

Just fine sandpaper + metal polish? or Is there a better way?
 

mlsred

Likes Dirt
Anyone have any tips on how to get an old 2 stroke exhaust with surface rust all nice and shiny again?

Just fine sandpaper + metal polish? or Is there a better way?
you can do a good job with using sand paper, start off with something decent to get the surface rust off then gradually go down through the grades of sand paper until your at the finest, only then start to use the autosol otherwise your gonna get dissapointed with the final finish.

otherwise very fine steel wool and a couple of buffing mops is your best option.
 

skivi

Likes Dirt
i used a robust cut and polish on my old 2 banger to take the pitting out of the wheels and spokes, worked a treat with a scotch pad but don;' go nuts or you will tarnish the chrome. use an mildly abrasive sponge first then finish with a soft rag.
 

floody

Wheel size expert
Slightly off topic, but does anyone know if there is an option to take out daily insurance at Eastern Creek track days?
I'm thinking of heading down next Wednesday, but a fear of crashing and not being covered is stopping me since it's not my car...

I've browsed a few sites, but have been unable to find anything.

Also, does anyone know how much rubber I'd be likely to burn? I'd be in a fwd...

Yeah, the same company that does last minute insurance for impending fire damage does it.
 

Plow King

Little bit.
Plow king, personally I would wait. Get a banger and wait. You will be able to afford a much nicer car in the long run and trust me. It is never just "throwing a turbo on" there's alot of work involved. Think turbo, computer, manifolds, intercooler, upgraded clutch, gearbox (usually), driveshafts, fuel pump, injectors etc etc a proper turbo conversion Is hardly ever economical or worth the expense.

Also worth mentioning that it will probably take a while and ou ate gonna need a shitter to drive around while all the work is being done anyway.
Yeah fair enough.

Scrap the plonking a turbo Idea on it. :p

I still think I'm gonna grab an rx/gx though for around 11-12. I'm paying 350 on interest and 800 comprehensive insurance. Which isnt much more than the 3rd party on the barina. I may lose a thousand or so in depreciation but I'm willing to lose that amount to have a comfortable/reliable car with all the mod cons for a year and a half.

I don't mean to sound like I'm pissing all of your helpful advice out the window but I'm a cashed up 20y/o try telling me otherwise :p

I'll post back in a year and a half and the bold title will be 'FML why didn't I listen to 'donthucktoflat'
 

donthucktoflat

Eats Squid
Yeah fair enough.

Scrap the plonking a turbo Idea on it. :p

I still think I'm gonna grab an rx/gx though for around 11-12. I'm paying 350 on interest and 800 comprehensive insurance. Which isnt much more than the 3rd party on the barina. I may lose a thousand or so in depreciation but I'm willing to lose that amount to have a comfortable/reliable car with all the mod cons for a year and a half.

I don't mean to sound like I'm pissing all of your helpful advice out the window but I'm a cashed up 20y/o try telling me otherwise :p

I'll post back in a year and a half and the bold title will be 'FML why didn't I listen to 'donthucktoflat'
It's all good lol. I was in your situation at 18. Blew alot (like ALOT) of cash on my car. It's definately ducked my financial situation for at least another year but still no regrets and it was fun while it lasted. Just hate seeing others make the same mistake I did but if you can afford it then all power to you. Over performance cars now anyway until I'm rolling in the dough.
 

Plow King

Little bit.
Hmm probably pissing you all off with these questions but what do we think of VW Golfs?

CAn pick an 01-03 2l with around 100k for around 11-12k?

Good or bad?
 

floody

Wheel size expert
Sounds reasonable. Be aware most cars are approaching MAJOR service time at 100k, so look into what a whole host of service parts (timing belt, tensioners, filters, all fluids, brake pads, probably select chassis bushings and mounts...) are going to cost, fitted.
 

brisneyland

Likes Dirt
We like golfs. Not excatly fast though.
Mine will be ;-)

Kinda.

Starting to plan out the water/meth and a tune/DPF delete and a few other bits and bobs. I think 180kw/500nm is achievable. :cool:

Put all new shocks, brake pads, two front rotors and an anti-lift kit in my mates '07 GTI yesterday. Far out VW do some weird things. They seem to love using even size bolts - most spanner sets are odd numbers only beyond about 14mm. And they like to use two of the same size nut on a single bolt, so you need multiple fucking tool kits. And what the FUCK is up with using triple-square (Posi-drive?) bolts? Fuck that shit right off!
 

Breaka

Likes Bikes and Dirt
180kw and a fuck load of torque easy to use in a FWD car?

I've no real experience in driving a FWD car 'fast'. I can only imagine it'd be a fair handful!

My fondness for Golf's has grown a fair bit though. If I were to put my money into a small euro it'd definitely be a Golf.
 

brisneyland

Likes Dirt
180kw and a fuck load of torque easy to use in a FWD car?

I've no real experience in driving a FWD car 'fast'. I can only imagine it'd be a fair handful!

My fondness for Golf's has grown a fair bit though. If I were to put my money into a small euro it'd definitely be a Golf.
Yeah FWD is new to me too really.

I'll see how it goes - I think an LSD may be on the cards.
 

VW NUT

Likes Bikes and Dirt
With anything over 100kw's in a FWD thats light weight and driving in anger a Torque Biasing Diff such as a Pelequin or Quaife is your friend.
 
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