Project Car / Motorbike thread. Let's see 'em.

MasterOfReality

After forever
Lots of RAMS where I live in western Brisbane, full of horse people with massive fuck off floats, and caravans too.

I guess if you have the usage case for it, they make a lot of sense as I think they don't require GVM upgrades and stuff like the Landcruisers do. Otherwise it's just silly.
 

Haakon

Trap? What trap?
Did the first start on the reno transmission I rebuilt... Trans is good, the nearly new/reco torque converter I got for it from what I thought was a known source (ie I sold it to a bloke years ago with a transmission but he never used the converter...) is a dud...

Horrible rattle at idle, and stalls the engine when put in drive - lockup seems to be jammed on. Boo. Maybe it was dropped, maybe in the 8 years in storage it got some corrosion in it. Who knows...

Oh well, I'll just use the old converter. It was fine, I was just being a good boy and putting an uncontaminated converter in after the old box fried a clutch pack. But when the box was opened up it was pretty clean really. Hope this stuffed converter hasnt sent shit through the new box!

Bloody cars... But the trans itself feels good. Pressures are nice, it changes gear well on the very short drive once I got it moving past the jammed on lockup clutch!
 

link1896

Is not a gynaecologist but will look at your fork
Lots of RAMS where I live in western Brisbane, full of horse people with massive fuck off floats, and caravans too.

I guess if you have the usage case for it, they make a lot of sense as I think they don't require GVM upgrades and stuff like the Landcruisers do. Otherwise it's just silly.
Reminds me of an old saying:

“A Hummer being driven on the battlefield is a tool. A Hummer being driven on Rodeo Drive is being driven by a tool”
 

Dales Cannon

Cur non isti mictum ex occasione?
Staff member
What did they come out of?
3.0 Matsuuda diesel. Pretty common as flow would appreciate. The toothed belt didnt go to the dentist for check ups and had some cavities and lost plenty of teeth. Thing was almost smooth for half the length and rock hard. Mate has repaired a few broken rockers which seem to be a failure point rather than mulch pistons. But this is the first time all were broken. Shows extra effort by the driver. Bloody rockers are over $60 each retail. Top of the engine looks ok through the injector ports. No idea if any valves are bent. That is the next step.
 

ausdb

Being who he is
3.0 Matsuuda diesel. Pretty common as flow would appreciate. The toothed belt didnt go to the dentist for check ups and had some cavities and lost plenty of teeth. Thing was almost smooth for half the length and rock hard. Mate has repaired a few broken rockers which seem to be a failure point rather than mulch pistons. But this is the first time all were broken. Shows extra effort by the driver. Bloody rockers are over $60 each retail. Top of the engine looks ok through the injector ports. No idea if any valves are bent. That is the next step.
That Brokenium is expensive stuff indeed, only a few places away on the periodic table than Unobtanium.
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Just did a 300km road trip in southern Germany and averaged 129km/h. Even with the weekend traffic there was plenty of cruising at 160km/h, a good amount at 180km/h and a few stretches above 200km/h. If you're reckless you can go much faster but then you're relying on other drivers not coming over into the overtaking lane. There's also an increasing number of twits that will camp out on the fast lane until you come right up on them.

It's pretty clear why the Germans build their cars to handle repeated braking from high speed.

Fuel consumption was only 6.7l/100km. A couple of turbos and a diesel engine make for economical cruising.

Mate did the same trip recently in his electric car and the high speed plus repeated accelerations destroyed his range. He says you really need to stay below 120 to get any decent range.

Very much want a full electric car for round town use in Caarntburra but for Germany will stick with ICE. The train system and bike path network is so awesome that you really don't need a car unless you need to go somewhere further than you can ride that isn't serviced by a regular train.
 

crash3

Likes Dirt
Finally did a prelim clean of the FZR250 carbs, changed the oil, and chucked in some plugs. Turns over fine.
Chuck in some fuel and she runs! Rough as shit, but runs. Running on 3/4 cylinders, hopefully related to my barely cleaned carbs, with sticking slides. May not have fitted one of the spark plug leads correctly now I think of it. Eh. Ordered carb seal kit and brake master cylinder rebuild kits now I know the engine runs.


2kr FZR250 first start
 

MasterOfReality

After forever
The old 304 has developed the dreaded rear main leak. Just after the motor was removed, ancillaries, welch plugs and water pump replaced, and motor refitted. Damn it.

To fix properly motor has to come back out, stripped down and crankshaft removed. Not something I was wanting right now.

The leak isn't major yet so may just live with it and address it when it starts to piss oil. That might buy me time to save up for a rebuild.
 

Haakon

Trap? What trap?
The old 304 has developed the dreaded rear main leak. Just after the motor was removed, ancillaries, welch plugs and water pump replaced, and motor refitted. Damn it.

To fix properly motor has to come back out, stripped down and crankshaft removed. Not something I was wanting right now.

The leak isn't major yet so may just live with it and address it when it starts to piss oil. That might buy me time to save up for a rebuild.
Crankshaft removed...? How come?
 

MasterOfReality

After forever
Crankshaft removed...? How come?
Excellent video explaining the process. My mechanic also mentioned the use of a sneaky pete tool (sounds dirty) where you can do it without stripping the motor but success rate not high.

I'll prob just live with it whilst the leak is small, and address it when it starts to piss out. Could turn this into an engine build project with my son when he is a bit older.

Holden V8 Rear Main Seal Installation | COME Racing
 
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