My wax based lube recipe

[Olefin]

Have you considered/tried adding boron nitride (e.g. the key ingredient in some finish line products), graphite powder (readily available) or even molybdenum disulphide

I'm trying Tungsten disulphide powder, currently added to commercial Purple Extreme lubricant. Friction is one thing but wear is another (though probably linked). It looks dirty but seems ok.

I don't know how to do an objective test to see if my chains last longer. Practically in muddy conditions my chains stay quiet longer then my fellow riders, but then Purple Extreme seems to be quite a good lube anyway.

With chains at $25 from CRC and lube at $15 it questions how much effort you should spend making your chain last.

 

[SideFX]

So what do you call it , Farkin Lube ?

 

[krisko]

"Paraffin (canning wax), although clean, works poorly because it is not mobile and cannot replenish the bearing surfaces once it has been displaced. This becomes apparent with any water that gets on the chain. It immediately squeaks."

This is what the Beeswax prevents. It gives the lube a great amount of adhesion whilst remaining slippery hence lubricating. Water displaces of this lube not the other way around.

It takes 24-36 hours for the waxes to break down in the solvent. The solvent certainly doesn't evaporate immediately giving it time to penetrate between the rollers and links. It takes several minutes for the carrier to evaporate, where the adhesive properties come into play, keeping it in place, whilst remaining slippery. It simply doesn't flake!

Best of both worlds I guess. Give it a go for yourself or wait for production...

 

[PJS]

What would be the disadvantage to using all beeswax then? Too sticky and collects grime? Cost maybe? (Don't know what it's worth)

 

[skwiz05]

Sounds interesting unfortunately friction isn't a problem with bicycle chains in general, look here for a comprehensive University test. There have been many other similar tests done with the same results! http://www.sdearthtimes.com/et1199/et1199s13.html

Nothing keeps noise down like a decent based wax lubricant! It's all about filling the gap between the chain rollers, links and drivetrain.

This recipe produces a clean white lubricant that actually has a faint honey scent.

Friction NOT a PROBLEM???????
Hmm......lets think......friction = wear = chainstretch = worn gear train.........

I think you misunderstand that report. Its about EFFICIENCY overall for power conversion, saying friction wasnt a big factor in POWER efficiency, it had nothing to do with chain friction which causes wear - which is the reason we lube chains......

If as you say, "friction isn't a problem with bicycle chains in general" , then we wouldnt need to lube them and they would last forever - right?

 

[krisko]

Unfortuanely that is incorrect. Although a very strong arguement with alot of perceived truth.



John Hopkins University test on friction, taking into account different chain lubricants
http://www.jhu.edu/news_info/news/home99/aug99/bike.html
"The researchers found two factors that seemed to affect the bicycle chain drive's efficiency. Surprisingly, lubrication was not one of them."[/I]

"The second factor that affected efficiency was tension in the chain. The higher the chain tension, Spicer says, the higher the efficiency score. "This is actually not in the direction you'd expect, based simply on friction," he says. "It's not clear to us at this time why this occurs."

The Johns Hopkins engineers made another interesting discovery when they looked at the role of lubricants. The team purchased three popular products used to "grease" a bicycle chain: a wax-based lubricant, a synthetic oil and a "dry" lithium-based spray lubricant. In lab tests comparing the three products, there was no significant difference in energy efficiency. "Then we removed any lubricant from the chain and ran the test again," Spicer recalls. "We were surprised to find that the efficiency was essentially the same as when it was lubricated."

The researcher speculates that a bicycle lubricant does not play a critical role under clean lab conditions, using a brand new chain. But it may contribute to energy efficiency in the rugged outdoors. "The role of the lubricant, as far as we can tell, is to take up space so that dirt doesn't get into the chain," Spicer says. "The lubricant is essentially a clean substance that fills up the spaces so that dirt doesn't get into the critical portions of the chain where the parts are very tightly meshed.

 

[MountGower]

G'day

I have made my mix a few hours ago. It is already at the quoted consistency of paste / cream.

I realise I haven't used it yet and am not jumping to conclusions. I am wondering if the wax content is too high and how a paste will work it's way in to the pins. I guess that, rightly or wrongly I am referencing / benchmarking this from Rock 'n' Roll Gold's appearance.

With the creamy consistency, aren't we wasting a lot of the wax? I wonder how it is going to find it's way in to the pins when it's that thick and think that perhaps a good deal of it is going to sit where it lands and simply fly off. Perhaps it is neccessary to increase the solvent levels to ensure that the wax is not wasted, but gets to where it is needed most.

Also, how many millilitres are people using to lube their chain?

I'd be grateful to hear from anyone who has more experience than I do, which could simply mean any experience at all, especially Krisco, if he is reading this.

Cheers.

 

[HerdingCats]

Great thread. It reads awfully like Squirt, which is an awesome lube - I trundle around the grinding paste generating trails of Sydney's north, and Squirt works a treat keeping the chain in good running order.

I do like the idea of preparing a home brew; thanks for sharing it Krisco.

 

[krisko]

Hi guys mix it down with more wax and grease remover, to your desired consistency.
Different wax and grease removers break down the waxes differently, leading to different consistencies.

I like a mix that is like a runny moisturiser. Drop it on, I backspin the chain whilst holding the lube against the chain this drops a small amount on each pin. I then keep backspinning whilst gently pinching the chain, this will push the lube in.

It reads awfully like Squirt, which is an awesome lube - I trundle around the grinding paste generating trails of Sydney's north, and Squirt works a treat keeping the chain in good running order.

You said it, not me. I really need to do a side by side comparison to other top end lubes (coming soon) This lube is also extremely useful in lubing and protecting, suspension pivots and bearings.
Why use an oil based lube that attracts dirt.

 

[MountGower]

Thanks, Krisko. I have Clag glue this morning, 14 hrs after mixing, so I'll just top up the white spirits.

Cheers.

 

[Jim Junkie]

You know, until now, I've never even considered making my own lube. Probably what all the companies spruiking their $25 for 75ml lubes are counting on I guess.

Definetly be giving this a go. First on the roadie, and if it survives, I can give it ago on the bike I really care about. Poor old road bike, takes such a beating with experimentation . Who ever said you can't play favorites though.

Does anyone know a good place to buy bee's wax though? I don't think I've ever seen that around anywhere before.

 

[Anarchist]

Craft shop - candle making supplies. Cheap as.

 

[Canbaroo]

Does anyone know a good place to buy bee's wax though? I don't think I've ever seen that around anywhere before.[/QUOTE]

Same problemo... started to think Krisko had cornered the market:tape: Rang all over Canberra, candle shops have all closed but then found a beekeeper a bit out of town, she had stock got 600gms for $10.00... making the potion tonight.... I know, full moon last week but....

 

[MountGower]

I bought my beeswax from John Guilfoyle, 38 Begonia St, Inala. PH: 3279 9750

If anyone wants some refined paraffin wax, I have tonnes of it, cheap.

PM me your phone number and we'll make some arrangements.

 

[crowash]

Does anyone know a good place to buy bee's wax though? I don't think I've ever seen that around anywhere before.

Same problemo... started to think Krisko had cornered the market:tape: Rang all over Canberra, candle shops have all closed but then found a beekeeper a bit out of town, she had stock got 600gms for $10.00... making the potion tonight.... I know, full moon last week but....[/QUOTE]

I have picked up all the ingredients today. the Beeswax was expensive ($20) but there is probably half a kilo there so it will make a lot more.

500g of parrafin was $6 (art and craft store)
and the wax and grease remover was $12 for a litre. (Super Cheap Auto - paint section, took me forever to find it)

I'll put a brew together tonight. I'm thinking I might use a tomato sauce bottle (the squeezy kind) as I can't see myself getting anything back into an empty oil bottle.

reckon if i have plenty of cheap lube available I'll use it more often :clap2:

 

[flamin'trek]

I put about 100g (or was it 200g, no... sure it was 100g) of candle into some auto paint wax n grease remover to make up about 400mL in a 500mL bottle. After a week of shaking a couple of times each afternoon it still hasn't fully dissolved. Maybe too much wax? Will put some beeswax in when I get hold of some. If it doesn't dissolve properly then I'll decant into a bigger bottle and add some more wax n grease remover.

 

[MountGower]

Crowash

If you only have one litre of sovent, I'd mix up a half, because you may find you end up with a lube that is too thick and want more solvent. I used white spirit and found the recipe on the front page was a bit thick. Fortunately I had 4 litres of solvent and added a fair bit extra.

On another note, is anyone else a little freaked out by how dry this gear is? I'm doing a very long and dusty fire trail ride tomorrow. 105km with 2700m of ascent and I am taking plenty with me. I rode similar conditions Wednesday, but only for 36km and I just don't know what to make of it being so dry. I have to say though, that it was a silent, grit free, chain suck free 36.

 

[crowash]

I put about 100g (or was it 200g, no... sure it was 100g) of candle into some auto paint wax n grease remover to make up about 400mL in a 500mL bottle. After a week of shaking a couple of times each afternoon it still hasn't fully dissolved. Maybe too much wax? Will put some beeswax in when I get hold of some. If it doesn't dissolve properly then I'll decant into a bigger bottle and add some more wax n grease remover.

I'm having the same problem. I have liquid mix on top and undissolved parrafin on the bottom. Did more wax n grease remover help? If you only put 100g in that shouldnt be the problem. I'm worried if I put more in the solution will be even more liquid. Do I just need to leave it longer? Its been in there overnight,

 

[krisko]

Did you fine grate the waxes? This will help breaking it down into a liquid.

As stated earlier not all wax and grease removers are created equal, different quantities and qualities of chemicals will affect how the waxes break down and the consistency of the formula.

See here http://www.autobodystore.com/ms8.shtml if you want to know more about wax and grease removers.

Just add more wax and grease remover to get your desired consistency.

 

[flamin'trek]

I probably should have used the grater, but hadn't purchased a replcement for the kitchen yet so shaved the candle with a pen knife! Was hoping that regular shaking would get it happening. When I went to shake it yesterday it had solidified, this morning only had a little bit of liquid and the rest was sludge. Each time a decent shake brought it back to liquid again, but might have to add some more wax n grease remover. Experimenting is fun!

edit: should add that the wax n grease remover I have is a few years old and some of the volatiles may have escaped, but it is worth a try coz of the low cost. I haven't added extra waxngrease remover yet.