It is a simple job but most places don't like do8ng one off's. I was thinking of burners...
That's a bugger.Thanks for the possible lead on a crown race, unfortunately, the OD of the steerer isn't something a standard 1.5 crown race would fit.
I should have rung the shop and asked them to get their verniers out and measure the crown race.
wasted a couple of hours getting out to the sticks and back. should have got it posted.
However shit my verniers are, they were probably close to 38.1mm for the OD of the fork steerer. The 39.7 ~39.8mm ID of the FSA crown race was never going to fit. we could both see that it was loose on the steerer.
The shop mechanic tried to be helpful, but I had already dealt with the distro, who also tried to be helpful but couldn't find me a crown race to fit a weird steerer diam.
IS there someone in Melbourne (or interstate) who could turn me up a shim or a crown race that would fit, and work with the standard FSA integrated tapered headset I bought? the top parts fit fine, inc top bearing, and the bottom bearing seems to fit fine.
have you scanned the QR code?Dear Rotorburn Lathe experts:
Some of you may have seen my WTB thread, needing an odd sized crown race, to fit the tapered steerer on an Avanti carbon fibre road fork.
The OD of the base of the fork steerer comes in at 38.06mm, and the ID of the crown race for the tapered integrated headset measures 39.99mm, according to my cheapy micrometer. The metal collar (?) at the base of the steerer is approx 7mm high.
I need someone to turn up a shim to fit over the tapered steerer so that the crown race fits snugly, and I can get on with my build.
It could be Aluminium or Stainless steel. whatever would work best. Is this feasible? how much would it cost? for one or maybe two, because stuff happens...
Thanks in advance, for your consideration.
If it's in greater Melbourne, I can bring the fork to you, and it can be measured with your (no doubt) way better quality micrometer.
Some photos of the offending areas:
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Unfortunately, they probably just copy/pasted the lines from where-ever. Pretty sure they weren't the page copy from the FSA site.That's a bugger.
So the bike shop had the standard bearing crown, not the one they claimed for the 38.1 steer?
FSA usually makes most of the OEM headset parts if any would have it, I would suspect it would be in that brand.
Most machine shops would charge a couple of hundred minimum unless they'll do a cash-in-hand job after hours.
I doubt FSA make one any more. I think it's our old favourite, Quickly obsolete proprietary "standards".That's a bugger.
So the bike shop had the standard bearing crown, not the one they claimed for the 38.1 steer?
FSA usually makes most of the OEM headset parts if any would have it, I would suspect it would be in that brand.
Most machine shops would charge a couple of hundred minimum unless they'll do a cash-in-hand job after hours.
If you want to do it well, buy an un-split reducer and have a machine shop turn the ID out to your desired dimension (ideally take the fork along so you/they can check the fit).I had a thought to buy a couple of crown race reducers (1.5 to 1 1/8th) and sand down the inside until it fits. would it be better with a split version or an unsplit race?
Clamping a crown race on the OD in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, only way so it doesn’t go into orbit the moment the tool tip gets neat is to use a split ring clamp on the OD that then goes into the chuck.If you want to do it well, buy an un-split reducer and have a machine shop turn the ID out to your desired dimension (ideally take the fork along so you/they can check the fit).
Or if you want to try a hack, buy some Metalset and use it to fill the gap between your 1.5" crown race and the fork (FYI - it'll probably also stick the race on unless you grease the race prior to installing. Beware not wiping away excess before it sets too, this stuff is a bastard to try and file off once it's cured...).
[EDIT] If you do manage to find some crusty old machinist that'll actually talk to you (not just look at you warily and grunt, lol), just remember this phrase that should never be uttered - "I was hoping you could do it now...". That is unless you want to be told to 'go away' but in much less polite terminology. If they seem like it's something they might do for you, "When do you reckon you might have a chance to play with it?" might be a safer bet.
I bought a carbon fork from ebay that actually fits a 39 point whatever mm crown race. The stock FSA solid ring crown race looked a bit tight to get onto the fully carbon steerer on the ebay fork, but I have a split one from a Banshee headset that fits well and wont f@#$@@ the carbon up.Clamping a crown race on the OD in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, only way so it doesn’t go into orbit the moment the tool tip gets neat is to use a split ring clamp on the OD that then goes into the chuck.
ForkinGreat, where is this mini project up to?
You're mad, I love it!After running out of 3M exterior masking tape yesterday retaping a rim, I decided today that I would make a cutting tool for the lathe to trim the new roll to the correct width.
Last roll I used a stanley knife clamped to the tool post which kind of worked but I felt a trailing cutting edge would work better.
So re-purposed a piece of hacksaw blade and used some aluminium plate I saved from the scrap bin a while ago to come up with this.
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that's one sexy shiv!After running out of 3M exterior masking tape yesterday retaping a rim, I decided today that I would make a cutting tool for the lathe to trim the new roll to the correct width.
Last roll I used a stanley knife clamped to the tool post which kind of worked but I felt a trailing cutting edge would work better.
So re-purposed a piece of hacksaw blade and used some aluminium plate I saved from the scrap bin a while ago to come up with this.
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New bear just ain't like the old bear.Does work extremely well.... Though not enough length to cut all the way to the cardboard inner, but I didn't want it to deflect when cutting. Not an issue though as I can always cut the rest off as I use the tape. Might still experiment with a slightly longer blade anyway.
Interestingly, the yellow 3M exterior masking tape is no longer on the bunnings shelf just like the scotch blue exterior. This Bear exterior masking tape is much more like a cloth tape than the "ribbed" yellow exterior tape.
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New bear just ain't like the old bear.
Blame @bear the bear and his "accept an inferior product" name-slogan.