The QUICK question thread.....

Jpez

Down on the left!
I know there are a few smart folks here.
I have a 4 year old car that the DAB radio has never worked properly. It’ll play for a few minutes then drop out. Maybe come back on if I’m lucky. Then drop out again. Not like how a normal DAB radio drops out but takes a few seconds to find the signal again but completely gone.
It’s been back to the dealership 6 times. They’ve tried resetting it. Installing a new head unit, and most recently a new digital antenna.
Still the issue persists.

Does anyone have any clue what might be happening? Maybe some weird interference from something else in the vehicle?
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
I know there are a few smart folks here.
I have a 4 year old car that the DAB radio has never worked properly. It’ll play for a few minutes then drop out. Maybe come back on if I’m lucky. Then drop out again. Not like how a normal DAB radio drops out but takes a few seconds to find the signal again but completely gone.
It’s been back to the dealership 6 times. They’ve tried resetting it. Installing a new head unit, and most recently a new digital antenna.
Still the issue persists.

Does anyone have any clue what might be happening? Maybe some weird interference from something else in the vehicle?
I feel your pain. If we were smart then we wouldn't have DAB+ recpetion problems. I have two identical headunits with same stick on DAB+ windscreen aerials in our cars. The signal is sketchy but we do have much more consistent reception with the Jimny and its more upright windscreen compared to the lower height and steeper slope of the Mazda. The location of the aerial seems to be the blame for me. There isn't *that* much difference in physical height and angle position between them but it clearly shows how picky DAB+ can be,

I also have a cheap DAB+ in the shed which uses the same car windscreen aerial stuck onto the shed's clear roof panel. It works fine 100% of the time but doesn't have to move :) It did take some fiddling around to find the right spot for that also. The shed DAB is just a car kit with a USB powered DAB+ receiver plugged into computer speakers + subwoofer and works really well.

As a side point, does your headunit have signal seeking setting which I think tells it how long to stay on the same frequency before hunting for another? Not that I think there a multiple stream broadcasting the same channel but might be worth a try. I have fiddling with it but didn't make much difference at all for me. The signal loss just falls off a cliff all at once.

Anyhow, the reception on the Mazda is the sore point for me. I have considered wiring it to the factory rear antenna but really need to get power up to the antenna to hopefully reduce any noise the hence new cabling is needed to get it done correctly. I have tried with the 12V DAB+ spliiter amp that sits behind the headunit and just amplifys both the FM and DAB+ signals but it ended up just dragging down the FM reception threshold making the FM a bit worse. The DAB+ worked the same but I also don't have the right antenna. Would also need the antenna to be replaced with one that can work in FM and DAB+ frequency bands.

I'm fine to give things a go but would like a firmer idea of the result before pulling things apart.

I assume that you have an external FM and DAB+ antenna? I guess you wouldn't have the windscreen mount. Could there be an amplifer up near the antenna which might have intermittant power supply issues when the car hits some bumps? Does the reception change when the car is not running and power is only drawn when in the accessory position? Is there anywhere when it works fine with the engine off and car is stationary in the strong signal area?

DAB+ is damn picky and the Mazda deck worked pretty well yesterday when I was out an about. The DAB+ being a higher frequency than FM just doesn't bend around corners or work well with geographic like hills as well as FM seems to tolerate. I don't mind spending time to nut it all out but aren't clear on the next steps yet. I have considered getting another stick on antenna and see if I can graft two antennas onto the one amplifier to increase the surface area it has to capture but it won't make it more pretty and I could well mess up the impedance by adding moar aerial. I don't think I need to do that much more but have to do it the right way.
 

Jpez

Down on the left!
I feel your pain. If we were smart then we wouldn't have DAB+ recpetion problems. I have two identical headunits with same stick on DAB+ windscreen aerials in our cars. The signal is sketchy but we do have much more consistent reception with the Jimny and its more upright windscreen compared to the lower height and steeper slope of the Mazda. The location of the aerial seems to be the blame for me. There isn't *that* much difference in physical height and angle position between them but it clearly shows how picky DAB+ can be,

I also have a cheap DAB+ in the shed which uses the same car windscreen aerial stuck onto the shed's clear roof panel. It works fine 100% of the time but doesn't have to move :) It did take some fiddling around to find the right spot for that also. The shed DAB is just a car kit with a USB powered DAB+ receiver plugged into computer speakers + subwoofer and works really well.

As a side point, does your headunit have signal seeking setting which I think tells it how long to stay on the same frequency before hunting for another? Not that I think there a multiple stream broadcasting the same channel but might be worth a try. I have fiddling with it but didn't make much difference at all for me. The signal loss just falls off a cliff all at once.

Anyhow, the reception on the Mazda is the sore point for me. I have considered wiring it to the factory rear antenna but really need to get power up to the antenna to hopefully reduce any noise the hence new cabling is needed to get it done correctly. I have tried with the 12V DAB+ spliiter amp that sits behind the headunit and just amplifys both the FM and DAB+ signals but it ended up just dragging down the FM reception threshold making the FM a bit worse. The DAB+ worked the same but I also don't have the right antenna. Would also need the antenna to be replaced with one that can work in FM and DAB+ frequency bands.

I'm fine to give things a go but would like a firmer idea of the result before pulling things apart.

I assume that you have an external FM and DAB+ antenna? I guess you wouldn't have the windscreen mount. Could there be an amplifer up near the antenna which might have intermittant power supply issues when the car hits some bumps? Does the reception change when the car is not running and power is only drawn when in the accessory position? Is there anywhere when it works fine with the engine off and car is stationary in the strong signal area?

DAB+ is damn picky and the Mazda deck worked pretty well yesterday when I was out an about. The DAB+ being a higher frequency than FM just doesn't bend around corners or work well with geographic like hills as well as FM seems to tolerate. I don't mind spending time to nut it all out but aren't clear on the next steps yet. I have considered getting another stick on antenna and see if I can graft two antennas onto the one amplifier to increase the surface area it has to capture but it won't make it more pretty and I could well mess up the impedance by adding moar aerial. I don't think I need to do that much more but have to do it the right way.
Yep I’m well acquainted with both car and job site radios and how they can drop out if driving past a tall building or the job site radio is in a weird position or something and it’ll drop out for a few seconds but this is different. you’ll start the car and nothing. No service. And it’ll stay that way. Or it’ll come on for 10min and is gone. And may come back and then go after a while. Who knows.
It really is like an old fashioned loose wire or something.
Coincidentally mine is also a Mazda with the stick on the windscreen antenna.
No idea about the signal seeking feature. The interface is so bad I can’t be bothered with it.

But as in usual stealership fashion they’re trying to tell me it’s all normal even as I drive around with the head’tech’ for 10 minutes with no service.
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Yep I’m well acquainted with both car and job site radios and how they can drop out if driving past a tall building or the job site radio is in a weird position or something and it’ll drop out for a few seconds but this is different. you’ll start the car and nothing. No service. And it’ll stay that way. Or it’ll come on for 10min and is gone. And may come back and then go after a while. Who knows.
It really is like an old fashioned loose wire or something.
Coincidentally mine is also a Mazda with the stick on the windscreen antenna.
No idea about the signal seeking feature. The interface is so bad I can’t be bothered with it.

But as in usual stealership fashion they’re trying to tell me it’s all normal even as I drive around with the head’tech’ for 10 minutes with no service.
It is great when it works though :) Mine is an aftermarket non Mazda deck. A loose wire to a signal amp is a possibility along with buggy firmware.

The only similar weirdness I get is if the USB DAB+ dongle fails to load which only seems to occur if the accessories is turned off then back on quickly and doesn't load the USB DAB+ key. I can count the number of times that it has happened so not a big one.

Are any Mazda forums useful? Most OEM decks are a bit lacking. Someone out there must have a similar issue considering you have swapped decks and antennas.
 
The heater in my car has stopped working so the question is for defrosting after early morning surfs on the way home do I go:-

a) portable heater that plugs into the durry lighter

or

b) heated sox, beanie and hobo gloves ?

Determine my fate.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
The heater in my car has stopped working so the question is for defrosting after early morning surfs on the way home do I go:-

a) portable heater that plugs into the durry lighter

or

b) heated sox, beanie and hobo gloves ?

Determine my fate.
Heated clothes won't do anything for defrosting your windscreen.
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
No to the electric thingy. 10A will be inadequate. AC will defrost quickly. What has died? Core? Controls? Fan?
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
The heater in my car has stopped working so the question is for defrosting after early morning surfs on the way home do I go:-

a) portable heater that plugs into the durry lighter

or

b) heated sox, beanie and hobo gloves ?

Determine my fate.

Don't stop surfing. Fuck work! Just stay in the water and when you finally get out have a little fire by on the beach, boil a pot of coffee and toast up some fire snacks.
 

Flow-Rider

Burner
The heater in my car has stopped working so the question is for defrosting after early morning surfs on the way home do I go:-

a) portable heater that plugs into the durry lighter

or

b) heated sox, beanie and hobo gloves ?

Determine my fate.
Some of the high quality anti-fog sprays work for the windscreen, I usually leave my 4x4 parked on the beach till the early hours of the morning, it takes a fair while for the old diesel to get hot enough for the demister to take effect and rubbing the window with grains of sand all over your hand is not a good idea either. Just wear a jacket for the cold.
 
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