birddog69
Likes Bikes and Dirt
"Most recent Google review is worrying..." 'nuff said. Thanks.
The QUICK question thread.....
- Thread starter Minlak
- Start date
Calvin27
Eats Squid
Yep did that twice lol
Oddjob
Merry fucking Xmas to you assholes
In that case check 1 and 2. The ceramic pistons crack just by thinking about them.
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The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
SLX don't have stroke adjust; the reach adjust knob only moves the lever blade but doesn't alter stroke.
If they don't pump up, you can close the gap by force-feeding oil up from the caliper while the lever port is closed. Keep the pressure on until the bleed nipple is closed.
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Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
Did you fit it with a soapy spray that gives you time to adjust it?
I used a 3M tape as well. Just spray sticky side with water with a very small amount of detergent in it. It will not start to stick until you wipe over it with a credit card or similar to squeeze out the water. Even then you can still peel it off and reposition for 15 minutes or so. This should work with pretty much any type of clear adhesive tape.
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
Just use gaff tape.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
Thanks, I need the spray application type. I have fitted Invisiframe twice and it is inevitable that you will get bubbles or it is off centre, etc.
It is PITA to fit and takes longer but knowing that I won't get it right first go makes it the better option.
mike14
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Tektro cable disc brakes: Is it just a case of pulling the wire tighter to get an earlier bite point (lever is currently going to the bar without a lot happening) similar to cable brakes of old?
Youngster's brakes are very iffy and I suddenly realised it's been a while since I've had to adjust cable brakes!
Youngster's brakes are very iffy and I suddenly realised it's been a while since I've had to adjust cable brakes!
Check clearance on the passive side first. Screw the pad in until it just touches the rotor when the wheel is spinning and then back one notch/flat. Then adjust the cable to suit your preferred bite point. I used to make the two pads about the same.
Labcanary
One potato, two potato, click
Usually with mech disc brakes only one side pulls in, the other side stays static. So you'll need to get the static side as close to the rotor as possible without rubbing, then adjust your cable tension. The static side should also have a pad adjustment screw that you can turn to get the pad to move in closer to the rotor as the pad wears.
@Dales Cannon beat me to it
fjohn860
Alice in diaperland
Pretty sure your 230x65 is the same as the 230x60 just without a 5mm travel spacer/reducer.
The 60mm stroke shock will mean you will lose some suspension travel, the actual amount depends on your bike's leverage ratio.
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
Mr Crudley
Glock in your sock
Gave these guys a try. Pricing is reasonable for a partial frame skin.
https://www.paintgard.com.au/collections/bikegard-protection-filmkits
pink poodle
気が狂っている男
The best mechanical tip I can give you for mechanical discs is to get your hex keys out and remove them. Then replace them with hydraulic discs. If price is a concern, just use some cheap Shimano or tektro ones. They will be infinitely better than the cables and prove less frustrating.
I had no problems using these (shimano though) on the kids bikes and the Minister for War had BB7s for a good while. Hydraulics had too much bite and grip for light weights. Upgraded as they got bigger and faster. Wife has hydro Deores now but she struggled for a while with the change from rim brakes to discs and the transiti9n through cable discs was helpful.
mike14
Likes Bikes and Dirt
He's going to grow out of the bike in the next 18 months so upgrades aren't a priority at all.
Many thanks for the tips all!
