AM The Andorran Endurobro

kten

understands stuff moorey doesn't
To be fair to the bike if it came with cranks welded parallel to the ground it would probably still fulfil its design brief of gunning downhill jumping. Pedalling was never considered for these was it?
 

Lucaw

Next in line
To be fair to the bike if it came with cranks welded parallel to the ground it would probably still fulfil its design brief of gunning downhill jumping. Pedalling was never considered for these was it?
it pedals surprisingly well, the cranks are longer than what was speced though
 

pink poodle

気が狂っている男
Throw some 170/165mm cranks on and you'll be stoked. I switched 170mm to 165mm on my nomad and the difference blew my mind.
 

Lucaw

Next in line
The clash has an ~10mm lower bb than the craftworks, so 165 cranks should put the pedals in a similar position. Speaking of which, I’ve destroyed the nylontrax pedals from too many pedal strikes. Also managed to scratch my stantion.
On the plus side, my fortus rear wheel is great!
No flat spots and still true after 2 days at derby!
FB58C43F-CAC6-40B6-86A8-54B80679944C.jpeg
 

Lucaw

Next in line
A bit late of an update, but I figured out why it was skipping gears
3358CDB7-A083-4E6C-8CE2-70B4EC12E98E.jpeg

The barrel adjuster assembly had snapped off... This is already the second warranty shifter for me
So now it’s got a deore shifter and mech and an nx cassette. Now also has a pair of 170mm cranks from @Labcanary.
F4E04C23-5CBE-472A-B113-BFCB2382F005.jpeg

Now I just need to figure out what’s happening with the rear brake, and then it will be at a point that I’m happy with it
 

Labcanary

One potato, two potato, click
A bit late of an update, but I figured out why it was skipping gears View attachment 395939
The barrel adjuster assembly had snapped off... This is already the second warranty shifter for me
So now it’s got a deore shifter and mech and an nx cassette. Now also has a pair of 170mm cranks from @Labcanary.
View attachment 395940
Now I just need to figure out what’s happening with the rear brake, and then it will be at a point that I’m happy with it
Are you getting less pedal strikes with the 170's?

What's the brake you're using and what is it doing? One of the brake gurus might be able to point you in the right direction for a fix.
 

Lucaw

Next in line
Are you getting less pedal strikes with the 170's?

What's the brake you're using and what is it doing? One of the brake gurus might be able to point you in the right direction for a fix.
Yep, the 170s give me much less pedal strikes, 165s would be better again.
The rear brake just seems to be leaking, I think I might not have seal them up properly
 

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
The barrel adjuster assembly had snapped off...
You will be able to superglue that back in place till you get a replacement.
One of my boys bikes needed that done... can't remember if I ever replaced it.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Crap-end SPAM shifter; seen shitloads of them break off the adjuster nub like that.

"Leaking brake" isn't a particularly precise description. Can you please be a bit more specific as to where it appears to be leaking? Also to repeat part of @Labcanary's questioning, what brake?
 

Lucaw

Next in line
Crap-end SPAM shifter; seen shitloads of them break off the adjuster nub like that.

"Leaking brake" isn't a particularly precise description. Can you please be a bit more specific as to where it appears to be leaking? Also to repeat part of @Labcanary's questioning, what brake?
That was a microshift acolyte shifter. I have xt m775s brakes and I hadn’t sealed an olive right. Seems to have held up to the last couple of days at Derby/ St. Helens all good
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Munted olives will do that, happens if the hose tip isn't properly seated in the lever/master cylinder when the compression nut is tightened.
 
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