What did you do TO / WITH / FOR your bike today!

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Nah, I've inadvertently done that on a BBQ to a pair of mine. Can't vouch for total lifespan, but they were fine to use after. I just filed the balls down so they wouldn't score the rotors
I overcooked a set of Hope sintered pads a while back. It got the oil out, but the pad material wasn't happy afterwards and started rusting afterwards. It was probably the third time I'd cooked those pads after running them for a year or so, so wasn't too upset really, lol.

Once they cooled, the balls rubbed off easily.
As above, I'm not sure I'm doing it right - can you show me how to rub my balls off correctly? I thought the cooling off happens afterwards though? :p
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Stumbling back on-topic briefly...

WDIDFMBT (What did I do for my bike today)?

Well I ignored about a dozen phishing warnings and spam deflections from my e-mail host and ordered my new frame.

If it hadn't been for several user reviews, reports of the company actually responding to warranty issues/crash replacement assistance requests, and completed bike pictures on the Chinertown forums I might've been put off, but instead I'm just looking forward to New Frame Day.
 

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
Stumbling back on-topic briefly...

WDIDFMBT (What did I do for my bike today)?

Well I ignored about a dozen phishing warnings and spam deflections from my e-mail host and ordered my new frame.

If it hadn't been for several user reviews, reports of the company actually responding to warranty issues/crash replacement assistance requests, and completed bike pictures on the Chinertown forums I might've been put off, but instead I'm just looking forward to New Frame Day.
So did you get the same Scott copy down country thing that someone else on here posted recently?
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
So did you get the same Scott copy down country thing that someone else on here posted recently?
...ish.

It's an NS Bikes designed frame supposedly, but the front triangle is open-mould so it appears under various brand names with slightly different rear-ends (NS Synonym, Vitus ___?, Ican S3, Stevens ____?, etc...). The one on here was a Ican S3. I did initially contact Ican but never got a response. Wasn't really a bad thing in the end because it made me dig a little deeper into it, and I found what I just ordered:
Carbonda FM936

It's a short-travel "XC" dually but with long-low-slack geo. The Ican has pivots between the seat stays and chainstays near the rear axle, but the Carbonda uses flex-stays, which helps keep the weight down a couple of hundred grams lighter. The large "Superlight" BSA BB frames seem to be around 2000-2100gr, so even adding ~340gr for the shock it should still be plenty light.

I'll run mine with ~107mm-ish rear travel via a RockShox/Scott Nude 165x40mm shock and a Fox 36 (Yep, a 36!). I'm planning to mod an airspring to drop it down to a 120mm fork, which will slacken it out a degree and shorten the reach ~10mm. I'm also going to swap the Grip damper from from my Marz Z1 (it'll get the Grip2) into the 36 and adapt a remote lock-out onto it so the fork somewhat matches the shock's remote-actuated modes. The shock is typical in it's closed ("Climb") and open ("Descend) modes, but has an interesting trick with it's Trail ("Traction") mode - it closes off part of the air-spring as well as simultaneously increasing compression damping to partly reduce the amount of travel and firm things up at the same time.

Should be pretty spritely.
 

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
Nice! I remember seeing them when NS announced the bike a while back, good shout! Keen to hear how it pans out
 

Isaakk

Likes Bikes and Dirt
...ish.

It's an NS Bikes designed frame supposedly, but the front triangle is open-mould so it appears under various brand names with slightly different rear-ends (NS Synonym, Vitus ?, Ican S3, Stevens _?, etc...). The one on here was a Ican S3. I did initially contact Ican but never got a response. Wasn't really a bad thing in the end because it made me dig a little deeper into it, and I found what I just ordered:
Carbonda FM936

It's a short-travel "XC" dually but with long-low-slack geo. The Ican has pivots between the seat stays and chainstays near the rear axle, but the Carbonda uses flex-stays, which helps keep the weight down a couple of hundred grams lighter. The large "Superlight" BSA BB frames seem to be around 2000-2100gr, so even adding ~340gr for the shock it should still be plenty light.

I'll run mine with ~107mm-ish rear travel via a RockShox/Scott Nude 165x40mm shock and a Fox 36 (Yep, a 36!). I'm planning to mod an airspring to drop it down to a 120mm fork, which will slacken it out a degree and shorten the reach ~10mm. I'm also going to swap the Grip damper from from my Marz Z1 (it'll get the Grip2) into the 36 and adapt a remote lock-out onto it so the fork somewhat matches the shock's remote-actuated modes. The shock is typical in it's closed ("Climb") and open ("Descend) modes, but has an interesting trick with it's Trail ("Traction") mode - it closes off part of the air-spring as well as simultaneously increasing compression damping to partly reduce the amount of travel and firm things up at the same time.

Should be pretty spritely.
How was the purchase process - email them and go from there? Had been looking into buying something like that & this ticks all the boxes.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
How was the purchase process - email them and go from there? Had been looking into buying something like that & this ticks all the boxes.
Yep, I just e-mailed them, and went from there. I spoke with Wing.

They said both the Superlight or standard frame are rated to 125kg (I thought the Superlight might be lower, but nope). I'm not that heavy but it gave me some confidence it might forgive the occasional bodgy line-choice.

Depending on whether you just want the standard matte charcoal (free), or flat/gloss single colour, two-tone, colour-fades, metallics, clear-coated carbon, tinted clears, etc... they all have different prices. I thought about getting custom paint (It's not much, the most expensive option was tinted clear which would've been $150USD, metallics were ~$90USD). But wasn't keen on waiting. They quoted 2-4 weeks for paint, but having had a read on the Chinertown forums it seems like occasionally that pushes out a little.

They also have one (potential) known fault. The main pivot bolt is sometimes machined too long and bottoms out in the nut and leaves the rocker pivot a little loose which apparently leads to creaking, and then eventually cracking of the rocker. It seems if you find your frame's main pivot bolt is too long (not all are apparently), you can pull it out - machine a little off the threaded end and reinstall and torque and then they seem to have no issues. Seems to be several comments suggesting the bearing aren't the greatest and generally turn up without any grease in them too. The carbon lay-up seems to be quite good though, so to be honest, the other stuff is fairly minor fixes when you're getting a frame that's around 2/5ths of the price of typical "boutique" brands.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
You come across any slope style frames while you are trawling the deep dark depths of Chinese manufacturing @beeb?
Sadly not @pink poodle. I was sort-of hunting a 26" carbon HT to build a pump-track bike, but all the reach measurements are designed to fit children. Didn't see any 26" duallies except for a couple of very awkward and heavy looking alloy or steel frames. They did not look like something you'd want to ride if you you give your own health and safety any consideration.
 
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