Thinking of giving a gravel bike a crack

Mattyp

Cows go boing
Obviously you wouldn't want to accidentally put your gravel wheelset on your roadie and turn it into some weird gravel/roadie hybrid.
 

beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Don't pretend like you wouldn't reserve the first three posts in your gravel bike PYR to write an essay about how it's totally different from the CX bike that preceded it because the BB is 5mm lower.
Spoiler alert please!
 

hpatches

Likes Bikes
You've been trying to get me on that thing for 2 years now. My response remains the same: it's 26", right?
Very much enjoying this thread. Anyhow, I reckon small wheels are the go for "gravel" - allows you to run bigger tyres without big weight penalty, or the centrifugal issues that 700c + big tyre suffers from on the road*. I have used 26*2.1 and 650b*1.75, 1.9 around Canberra region a lot (I live near Bungendore) and only wished for bigger wheels when I was on extreeeeemely rough fire trails in Brindabellas, Tallaganda etc. Underbiking is fun anyway.

*Disclaimer - I have drunk the Jan Heine Kool-Aid
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Very much enjoying this thread. Anyhow, I reckon small wheels are the go for "gravel" - allows you to run bigger tyres without big weight penalty, or the centrifugal issues that 700c + big tyre suffers from on the road*. I have used 26*2.1 and 650b*1.75, 1.9 around Canberra region a lot (I live near Bungendore) and only wished for bigger wheels when I was on extreeeeemely rough fire trails in Brindabellas, Tallaganda etc. Underbiking is fun anyway.

*Disclaimer - I have drunk the Jan Heine Kool-Aid
So I was hoping to go for larger wheels given that around 60-70% of this bike's usage will be commuting on tar surfaces. My, likely ignorant assumption is that larger wheels = greater efficiency.

You're saying that larger wheels suffer diminishing returns because of stupid physics?
 

cammas

Seamstress
Tried to get away from work at lunchtime to sit on one of these in the shop. Didn't work out for me. Trying again on the morrow.
a friend of mine has the search picked up cheap off Gumtree, he absolutely loves it for commuting and even gets out for ride on the weekend along the Yarra trails. I set it up tubeless for him and it hasn't missed a beat, I remember him saying that compared to mtb, it wiped 10-15 minutes off his commute and he should have done it sooner.
 

boyracer

Likes Dirt
Roadieburn
Each of the bikes pictured in my previous post are 10 mins faster than the one below it on my 40 km commute.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
It's probably my biggest annoyance with gravel bikes - that they went 12x100mm front axle and ended up throwing another hub "standard" in the mix. If they'd gone 15x100 front and 142x12 rear it would've been mint.
That's more to do with the fact that grovel bikes are basically the road equivalent of fatbikes; 12x100 is a UCI-dictated roadie thing.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
So I'm going to try and push the budget a bit and am looking at these two bikes at the moment:

Norco Search XR S1 Gravel Bike Warm Grey

$3,999.00 $2,799.00 ?

1691533672685.png

SKU20NorcoSearchXRS1WarmGrey
Season2020
Sizing SKUsXS: NOAD2003310822, SM: NOAD2003310823, MD: NOAD2003310824, LG: NOAD2003310825, XL: NOAD2003310826, XXL: NOAD2003310827
Click & CollectYes
ColourGrey
FrameChromoly
Frame MaterialChromoly
ForkSearch XR Mid-Modulus Carbon
Fork MaterialCarbon
Speeds2 x 11
Front GearsDouble
Groupset BrandShimano
GroupsetShimano GRX
Rear Gears11 Speed
CranksetEaston EA90 46/30T
PedalsNot Included
ChainShimano CS-HG700 11-34T
Brake TypeHydraulic Disc Brake
BrakesShimano GRX BR-RX400 Hydraulic Disc
ShiftersShimano GRX RX600 Hydraulic
Brake LeversShimano GRX RX600 Hydraulic
Derailleur FrontShimano 105 FD-R7000
Derailleur RearShimano GRX RD-RX810
CassetteShimano CS-HG700 11-34T
Wheel Size700c
TyresWTB Resolute TCS 700x42c, Tubeless Compatible System, Tanwall
RimsWTB ST Light i23 TCS 2.0, Tubeless Ready
HubsF: Sealed Bearing 12x100mm TA R: Sealed Bearing w/Alloy Freehub 12x142mm TA
SpokesSapim Race Butted, Black, Black Brass Nipples
Bottom BracketEaston PressFit BB86
HandlebarEaston EA70 AX Aluminum, 16deg Flare
HeadsetFSA 44mm Cartridge Bearing
GripsNorco Griptacular Shockproof
StemNorco SL Aluminum - Custom Painted
SaddleNorco SL Race, Cromo Rails
SeatpostX-Fusion Manic Gravel 50mm Dropper, Drop-Bar Remote






Norco Search XR A1 Gravel Bike Orange/Grey

$2,799.00 $2,340.91 ?

1691533791870.png


SKU21NorcoSearchRA1OrangeGrey
Season2021
Sizing SKUsSM: NOAD2106011823, MD: NOAD2106011824, LG: NOAD2106011825, XL: NOAD2106011826, XXL: NOAD2106011827
Click & CollectYes
ColourOrange
FrameAlloy
Frame MaterialAlloy
ForkSearch XR Carbon
Fork MaterialCarbon
Speeds2 x 11
Front GearsDouble
Groupset BrandShimano
GroupsetShimano GRX
Rear Gears11 Speed
CranksetShimano GRX FC-RX600, 46/30T, 170mm (50.5), 172.5mm (53, 55.5), 175mm (58, 60.5)
ChainKMC X11
Brake TypeHydraulic Disc Brake
BrakesShimano GRX BR-RX400 Hydraulic Disc, Resin Pads
ShiftersShimano GRX ST-RX600
Brake LeversShimano GRX RX600 Hydraulic
Derailleur FrontShimano GRX FD-RX810
Derailleur RearShimano GRX RD-RX810 Shadow RD+
CassetteShimano 105 CS-R7000, 11-34T, 11 Speed
Wheel Size700c
TyresVittoria Terreno Dry, 38mm
RimsWTB ST i23 TCS 2.0 32H, 650b (45.5, 48), 700c (50.5-60.5)
HubsShimano HB-RS470, 12x100mm, Center Lock
SpokesSapim Leader Stainless Black
Bottom BracketShimano BB-RS500 PF86
HandlebarNorco Super Flare Aluminum, 16deg Flare, 42cm (45.5, 48, 50.5), 44cm (53, 55.5), 46cm (58, 60.5)
GripsNorco Griptacular Shockproof Tape
StemNorco SL Aluminum
SaddleSelle Royal Vivo, Mag Rails
SeatpostNorco Aluminum, 27.2mm






I'm keen on the alloy frame as I want to keep it as light as I can within my constraints. But there are some trade offs:
  1. Components on the steel frame are better (cranks, brakes, seat post, etc.)
  2. Tyres on the steel frame are wider
  3. I'm not sure if the fork is different, but may be better on the steel frame (although it might just be the way the webpage is written)
  4. Orange is not an attractive look....
The final point is moot, I don't really care about the colour. And whilst it feels like there are a lot of components on the steel frame that are better, I'm not sure that it's really going to make much difference to my ride - it's not going to be my off-road bike of choice (I have an..., unhealthy relationship with my Pyga and I'm finishing off the Stache soon as well), and I'm assuming that the difference won't be to apparent to me as I'm commuting.

The only part that concerns me is the fork, I don't want to skimp on them. A dropper would also be nice - I know it's a weight cost, but I can also use some of the savings on price to buy one at a later date if I feel I need it.
 

caad9

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Personally, I'd go with the steel one.

Having said that, you don't know if the drop bars will help the shoulder and you already have a HT MTB.
Verdict - Get the cheaper alloy one and pocket the extra cash
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
Verdict - Get the cheaper alloy one and pocket the extra cash
That's the point where I'm starting from. Hoping the shop has both in stock. If the weight difference is negligible I might give the steel some real consideration though.

I'm just about to start a new job, which comes with a decent raise. And I leave my old job with 8 weeks annual leave being cashed out and 7 years long service, which may be transfered to the new employer or get cashed out as well. So the funds are there, it's just whether I spend it on stuff that I should (like house repairs, etc.) or whether I spend it on stuff I want (n+1).
 

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
I'd go steel just because I like the look better, but the alloy is probably the better bet for the reason's you've listed already @johnny.

Re: your 4 points -

- The EA90 cranks are not actually necessarily better than the GRX. Beyond that they have a bit of an aftermarket flavour, a 30mm spindle in BB86 shell leaves f-all space for bearings. Personally I couldn't care less about a dropper on my gravel bike and as you say, it's another ~400g. Brakes are the same.
- The Terreno Dry tyres on the alloy are great. They also size up way bigger than their marked sizing. The 38c tyres actually have a 40-622 ETRTO designation and come up at about ~41mm wide. I put some on my Bombtrack and had to swap them out for the 35c tyre (which is actually ~37.5mm wide) because the rear triangle didn't have clearance for them. They're also light and fast rolling.. they're a great tyre.
- Fork's the same for sure, just different web copy
- Unfortunately the orange is fugly haha.. But it ticks all your other boxes. This is how I ended up with a f*cking red car.
 

Haylex

Likes Dirt
The difference in components between those two bikes wont make any measurable difference to your ride experience, except the dropper - depends what you want to ride. Anything that requires a dropper should be ridden on a mtb imo - bouncing down a rough trail on the hoods sucks. And of course the tyres, but thats an easy change to whatever your preference.

The grx 400/600/800group is similar to what I recently got on a Trek Checkpoint SL5 and honestly it shifts gears and stops great. Id go GRX crank over Easton cranks 100% as above.

The SL5 and AL5 Trek build is exactly the same, except the frame and seatpost. Was going to go with the cheaper option until i was given an offer on the SL5 I couldnt ignore. Actually i just looked and the SL5 is on sale for $3500 vs the AL5 $3000 - a bit over what you are looking for but ive been super happy with the SL5. As someone who has never ridden over 75km on the road before I just did a 150km rail trail race on the weekend and loved it.

Checkpoint SL 5 - Trek Bikes (AU)
Checkpoint ALR 5 - Trek Bikes (AU)

Of the two examples you have, I'd get the alloy bike, and spend the balance on some nicer wheels for gravel tyres (CRC had some sweet deals on gravel DT swiss wheels recently), and put road tyres on the stock wheels.
 

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
I'd go steel just because I like the look better, but the alloy is probably the better bet for the reason's you've listed already @johnny.

Re: your 4 points -

- The EA90 cranks are not actually necessarily better than the GRX. Beyond that they have a bit of an aftermarket flavour, a 30mm spindle in BB86 shell leaves f-all space for bearings. Personally I couldn't care less about a dropper on my gravel bike and as you say, it's another ~400g. Brakes are the same.
- The Terreno Dry tyres on the alloy are great. They also size up way bigger than their marked sizing. The 38c tyres actually have a 40-622 ETRTO designation and come up at about ~41mm wide. I put some on my Bombtrack and had to swap them out for the 35c tyre (which is actually ~37.5mm wide) because the rear triangle didn't have clearance for them. They're also light and fast rolling.. they're a great tyre.
- Fork's the same for sure, just different web copy
- Unfortunately the orange is fugly haha.. But it ticks all your other boxes. This is how I ended up with a f*cking red car.
The difference in components between those two bikes wont make any measurable difference to your ride experience, except the dropper - depends what you want to ride. Anything that requires a dropper should be ridden on a mtb imo - bouncing down a rough trail on the hoods sucks. And of course the tyres, but thats an easy change to whatever your preference.

The grx 400/600/800group is similar to what I recently got on a Trek Checkpoint SL5 and honestly it shifts gears and stops great. Id go GRX crank over Easton cranks 100% as above.

The SL5 and AL5 Trek build is exactly the same, except the frame and seatpost. Was going to go with the cheaper option until i was given an offer on the SL5 I couldnt ignore. Actually i just looked and the SL5 is on sale for $3500 vs the AL5 $3000 - a bit over what you are looking for but ive been super happy with the SL5. As someone who has never ridden over 75km on the road before I just did a 150km rail trail race on the weekend and loved it.

Checkpoint SL 5 - Trek Bikes (AU)
Checkpoint ALR 5 - Trek Bikes (AU)

Of the two examples you have, I'd get the alloy bike, and spend the balance on some nicer wheels for gravel tyres (CRC had some sweet deals on gravel DT swiss wheels recently), and put road tyres on the stock wheels.
Thanks for the thoughtful input, appreciated. Really helpful to clarify some of those points, particularly around the fork, brakes, tyres and cranks/BB.

Seems pretty clear that the alloy is the right bike for me to focus on. I can also use the savings to purchase some paint stripper...
 

caad9

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Was going to go with the cheaper option until i was given an offer on the SL5 I couldnt ignore. Actually i just looked and the SL5 is on sale for $3500 vs the AL5 $3000 - a bit over what you are looking for but ive been super happy with the SL5.
This is pretty important too.
Bikes are not selling at all, I would bet you could get them even cheaper with a bit of negotiation
 
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