Thinking of giving a gravel bike a crack

S

slimjim1

Fat boomers cloggin' ma leaderboard
99 bikes were very recently running out the Norco Search XR S2 for just under $2K from memory.

Reynolds 725 steel frame, 10 speed GRX which actually has a bigger range than the 11 speed, plenty of mounting points etc.

I've been abusing one for 7,000 kms on shit gravel, wet commutes, 170km road rides etc. Total maintenance to date = one gear cable and one set of brake pads. The frame rides a lot nicer than other similar alloy gravel bikes I've had previously.

Don't be tempted by the polygons with their spec for $. I've been down that road = cracked frame, wheels and other in house parts are almost unrideable.
 
ozzybmx

ozzybmx

taking a shit with my boobs out
Cardy George said:
Calling @ozzybmx . Where's the pics of your blue Gravelburner?
Click to expand...
Pic opportunity ! Circa 2012 steel HT MTB, custom geo copied off a medium Niner MCR9, got a set of 11spd Shimano 105 shifter/disc brakes for $200 and a set of 650mm wide drop bars. Added a GRX derailleur later. Bike can run 29" x 2.4 tyres. Basically monstercrossed an old MTB and turned it into a better bike than it ever was as a MTB.

Nearly 12,000km done on this bike over the years.

20210720_142339.jpg
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
So I've never owned carbon anything before - matter of fact, every frame I've ever owned except for my very first bike (Gary Fisher Tassajara) has been alloy. Does carbon have a lot of give/flex in it? Is that the reason for the carbon forks on these bikes?

caad9 said:
Do you want a faster bike for commuting or a versatile bike for everything?
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In order of priority:
  1. I want a faster bike for commuting, which can handle some fire trails and mostly smooth single trail
  2. I want drop bars as flat/wide bars fuck with my shoulder until its better
  3. I want to try something different and have budget for another bike
  4. N+1
Tubbsy said:
I could loan you my On-One which is set up as a commuter with a SID fork on the front.

Would give you an indication of what a light duty mtb could do for you.
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You've been trying to get me on that thing for 2 years now. My response remains the same: it's 26", right?

caad9 said:
If you are going down the path of suspension, ride your existing hardtail
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The hardtail is being completed regardless. I'm keen to try something different and if I'm going to spend a fair bit of time in this saddle I can't be using MTB handlebars until my shoulder heals.

SummitFever said:
Build up a set of light weight wheels for one of your mtbs. Stick on some gravel tyres and away you go. Canberra is not hilly so bike weight on a commute is largely irrelevant.

Spin everywhere at high candence.
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The only MTBs I have at the moment are my Pyga Hyrax, which is not built for commuting. Or a Trek Stache. I would just have a second set of wheels on for the stache and commute on that, but as per above, need to shift my hand/arm/shoulder riding position for a while.

I also live out back of Belco, a stone's throw from Mt Rogers. So what little hills CBR has, I get them. I also enjoy climbing and deliberately detour through Black Mountain on my commute when time allows.
boyracer said:
If interested in a build/ 2nd hand and under 6 foot, i have an alloy frame/ carbon fork CX that takes 45mm tyres with SRAM 10 speed i am going to sell? Built but not ridden. ADL though.
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Sorry, what does ADL mean? You're in the Blue Mountains, right? Wife is looking for an excuse to spend a long weekend in Syd/Blue Mountains, but not sure that it will happen any time soon.
 
rockmoose

rockmoose

his flabber is totally gastered
johnny said:
So I've never owned carbon anything before - matter of fact, every frame I've ever owned except for my very first bike (Gary Fisher Tassajara) has been alloy. Does carbon have a lot of give/flex in it? Is that the reason for the carbon forks on these bikes?



In order of priority:
  1. I want a faster bike for commuting, which can handle some fire trails and mostly smooth single trail
  2. I want drop bars as flat/wide bars fuck with my shoulder until its better
  3. I want to try something different and have budget for another bike
  4. N+1


You've been trying to get me on that thing for 2 years now. My response remains the same: it's 26", right?



The hardtail is being completed regardless. I'm keen to try something different and if I'm going to spend a fair bit of time in this saddle I can't be using MTB handlebars until my shoulder heals.



The only MTBs I have at the moment are my Pyga Hyrax, which is not built for commuting. Or a Trek Stache. I would just have a second set of wheels on for the stache and commute on that, but as per above, need to shift my hand/arm/shoulder riding position for a while.

I also live out back of Belco, a stone's throw from Mt Rogers. So what little hills CBR has, I get them. I also enjoy climbing and deliberately detour through Black Mountain on my commute when time allows.


Sorry, what does ADL mean? You're in the Blue Mountains, right? Wife is looking for an excuse to spend a long weekend in Syd/Blue Mountains, but not sure that it will happen any time soon.
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boyracer lives in Adelaide. ADL.
 
caad9

caad9

Likes Bikes and Dirt
johnny said:
In order of priority:
  1. I want a faster bike for commuting, which can handle some fire trails and mostly smooth single trail
  2. I want drop bars as flat/wide bars fuck with my shoulder until its better
  3. I want to try something different and have budget for another bike
  4. N+1
Click to expand...

I’d go steel, mainly because I’ve had it on a bike for this purpose and it was brilliant. Carbon frames generally would leave a lot to be desired elsewhere - particularly with a budget.

Norco Search/Kona Rove/Jamis Renegade/Bombtrack Hook EXT.

There’s a couple of good deals on Norcos on FB Marketplace in Vic.
 
ashes_mtb

ashes_mtb

Has preferences
No experience, and its north of your budget, but I’d be tempted by the Commencal
johnny said:
So I've never owned carbon anything before - matter of fact, every frame I've ever owned except for my very first bike (Gary Fisher Tassajara) has been alloy. Does carbon have a lot of give/flex in it? Is that the reason for the carbon forks on these bikes?



In order of priority:
  1. I want a faster bike for commuting, which can handle some fire trails and mostly smooth single trail
  2. I want drop bars as flat/wide bars fuck with my shoulder until its better
  3. I want to try something different and have budget for another bike
  4. N+1


You've been trying to get me on that thing for 2 years now. My response remains the same: it's 26", right?



The hardtail is being completed regardless. I'm keen to try something different and if I'm going to spend a fair bit of time in this saddle I can't be using MTB handlebars until my shoulder heals.



The only MTBs I have at the moment are my Pyga Hyrax, which is not built for commuting. Or a Trek Stache. I would just have a second set of wheels on for the stache and commute on that, but as per above, need to shift my hand/arm/shoulder riding position for a while.

I also live out back of Belco, a stone's throw from Mt Rogers. So what little hills CBR has, I get them. I also enjoy climbing and deliberately detour through Black Mountain on my commute when time allows.


Sorry, what does ADL mean? You're in the Blue Mountains, right? Wife is looking for an excuse to spend a long weekend in Syd/Blue Mountains, but not sure that it will happen any time soon.
Click to expand...
Never ridden a gravel bike but i like the look of the Commencal 365 that’s coming out. Starts at $2900 I think though.
 
The Duckmeister

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
johnny said:
So I've never owned carbon anything before - matter of fact, every frame I've ever owned except for my very first bike (Gary Fisher Tassajara) has been alloy. Does carbon have a lot of give/flex in it? Is that the reason for the carbon forks on these bikes?
Click to expand...
Carbon has the ability to iron out vibrations that transfer through metals, so you get a smoother ride. It actually has very little flex, so handling & power transfer are typically better (but vary due to different layups). The key to vibration damping is in the resin that glues the fibes together. Being a plastic it is slightly compressible and bouncy, and that absorbs the fine bumps and take the sting out of bigger hits too.
 
leitch

leitch

Feelin' a bit rrranty
That Ragley looks nice eh. If you're going new @johnny, definitely look at the Norco Search.. There's not really a better value complete package out there, and there have been some really good runout deals on them in various places lately.

The second hand market is a bit weird at the moment, split between recent COVID-era entrants who spent $6k on a Surly with SRAM Apex looking to get silly money for their crappy bike, but there are some good deals around with things not shifting. They also tend to be in better condition than your average 2nd hand mtb because they get bought, ridden to the pub or office a couple of times, and then sold. Second hand I'd be looking for a Search, or something from Bombtrack or All City.

It's also worth looking for more "dedicated" cyclocross bikes like a Giant TCX or Focus Mares - they tend to have less tyre clearance (like max 38 or 40c) which makes them less attractive to people who have grand delusions of racing the Hunt 1000 or something, but they're entirely capable of anything up to the point that you'd be taking your MTB anyway, and can be nice and fast. I paid $2000 for my Bombtrack with some nice bits like a Ratiotech 12sp conversion and S-works cranks. Takes max 38c tyres but is light and fast and makes a great commuter/roadie alternative when I don't want to get yelled at by dickheads in Rangers.

 
H

Halo1

Likes Bikes and Dirt
What happened to barry the burner bike ?
Is that not a cheap option with some drop bars and skinny tyres?

@johnny, with you shoulder injury, are drop bars better on the should then flat bars? I have a niggling shoulder thing where it feels like it need to crack/pop a joint. I think it started when I went to wider bars. I still have 760mm bars on the commuter. I am thinking of switching back to my narrow bar of my xc past.
 
smitho

smitho

Likes Bikes and Dirt
If you're buying new, Merida Silex is pretty hard to beat at the price:

www.99bikes.com.au

Merida Silex 400 Gravel Bike Glossy Black/Matt Black

Shop for Merida Silex 400 Gravel Bike Glossy Black/Matt Black (SKU: Silex400GlossyBlackMatt) and other Merida Bikes amongst Australia's best range of Bikes
www.99bikes.com.au www.99bikes.com.au

Also worth running a couple of sets of tyres if you're commuting and getting out for an adventure too.

I run 700x42 Terravail slicks for the commute, and 700x45 WTBs with a chunkier tread if I'm heading anywhere else.
 
Jabubu

Jabubu

let you google that for me
I heard that cyclocross bikes make for great gravel bikes too (and commuters).

I think the Ragley still edges it for me due to the steel frame (and being a previous Ragley owner!) but the Merida Silex looks very nice and reviews well too.
 
johnny

johnny

I'll tells ya!
Staff member
caad9 said:
I’d go steel, mainly because I’ve had it on a bike for this purpose and it was brilliant. Carbon frames generally would leave a lot to be desired elsewhere - particularly with a budget.

Norco Search/Kona Rove/Jamis Renegade/Bombtrack Hook EXT.

There’s a couple of good deals on Norcos on FB Marketplace in Vic.
Click to expand...
Some good suggestions there, thanks. Had a look at FB market in CBR lastnight, basically nothing at all on offer (other than two small bikes). Will probably have to buy new as I'm not too keen to purchase something from an unknown source without casting eyes over it first.


The Duckmeister said:
Carbon has the ability to iron out vibrations that transfer through metals, so you get a smoother ride. It actually has very little flex, so handling & power transfer are typically better (but vary due to different layups). The key to vibration damping is in the resin that glues the fibes together. Being a plastic it is slightly compressible and bouncy, and that absorbs the fine bumps and take the sting out of bigger hits too.
Click to expand...
Thanks, super helpful. For all the years I've been on bikes, I've never taken the time to read into and understand the different qualities of steel, alloy and carbon. I might search out an article that gets me across that as I've always just gone for alloy out of habit.

leitch said:
That Ragley looks nice eh. If you're going new @johnny, definitely look at the Norco Search.. There's not really a better value complete package out there, and there have been some really good runout deals on them in various places lately.

The second hand market is a bit weird at the moment, split between recent COVID-era entrants who spent $6k on a Surly with SRAM Apex looking to get silly money for their crappy bike, but there are some good deals around with things not shifting. They also tend to be in better condition than your average 2nd hand mtb because they get bought, ridden to the pub or office a couple of times, and then sold. Second hand I'd be looking for a Search, or something from Bombtrack or All City.

It's also worth looking for more "dedicated" cyclocross bikes like a Giant TCX or Focus Mares - they tend to have less tyre clearance (like max 38 or 40c) which makes them less attractive to people who have grand delusions of racing the Hunt 1000 or something, but they're entirely capable of anything up to the point that you'd be taking your MTB anyway, and can be nice and fast. I paid $2000 for my Bombtrack with some nice bits like a Ratiotech 12sp conversion and S-works cranks. Takes max 38c tyres but is light and fast and makes a great commuter/roadie alternative when I don't want to get yelled at by dickheads in Rangers.

Click to expand...
Nice, thanks, helpful response.

I'll probably be looking for something with no less than 40c clearance as my shoulder will need all the jolt-reduction it can get.

Halo1 said:
What happened to barry the burner bike ?
Is that not a cheap option with some drop bars and skinny tyres?

@johnny, with you shoulder injury, are drop bars better on the should then flat bars? I have a niggling shoulder thing where it feels like it need to crack/pop a joint. I think it started when I went to wider bars. I still have 760mm bars on the commuter. I am thinking of switching back to my narrow bar of my xc past.
Click to expand...
I think drop bars will be better. It's not the drop but the thinner width and that the thumbs are forward that help with me. I am also on the assumption at that the thinner bars will have me a little more upright with less weight on my hands than as with the experience on modern MTB geo/wide bars. I have to test ride one to test that assumption though.

I have a partially frozen shoulder with some chronic instability in the joint, not sure what your injury is an if it will experience the same symptoms as mine does when I ride.

smitho said:
If you're buying new, Merida Silex is pretty hard to beat at the price:

www.99bikes.com.au

Merida Silex 400 Gravel Bike Glossy Black/Matt Black

Shop for Merida Silex 400 Gravel Bike Glossy Black/Matt Black (SKU: Silex400GlossyBlackMatt) and other Merida Bikes amongst Australia's best range of Bikes
www.99bikes.com.au www.99bikes.com.au

Also worth running a couple of sets of tyres if you're commuting and getting out for an adventure too.

I run 700x42 Terravail slicks for the commute, and 700x45 WTBs with a chunkier tread if I'm heading anywhere else.
Click to expand...
Yep, suspect I might even run a couple of sets of wheels - one for the days when I've got time to ride the dirt route and one for when I've slept in and have to pelt in to work on the bike paths/roads.
 
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