Specialized rear shock "Brain" rebuild with pictures & now forks too

link1896

Mr Greenfield
New nitrogen stopper with schrader valve. Same internal volume so I didn't change the nitrogen chambers volume over oem

 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
assembly has started


That washer to the left, floating on the damping rod, unsure what it's purpose is. Maybe it's in case shock tops out and the top washer on the shim stack needs protecting, but with negative air preventing top out, all this floating washer is doing is rubbing the anodise off the damping rod
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Reservoir is together. Oring selection seems good, we will see if it withstands a vacuum and pressure.

 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
...unsure what it's purpose is...
Looks like it's there to slightly reduce travel, but steel is a really stupid material choice for something that "floats" around on an alu shaft. Machine up a similar sized nylon spacer to stop the potential for wear.
 

slowmick

38-39"
you have sooo much patience. it's like the worlds slowest engineering reverse strip show. put it on, put it on.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
Looks like it's there to slightly reduce travel, but steel is a really stupid material choice for something that "floats" around on an alu shaft. Machine up a similar sized nylon spacer to stop the potential for wear.

As always, thanks for your time dude.

After pondering this some more, the steel shim is at the wrong end to reduce travel, sag is going to prevent bearing from topping out. I think it might be to prevent the slip ring ( or the bearing's O ring ) covering the free bleed port upon initial assembly, will reassess.

Yes, steel is very unwise. Same with bottom out o ring with steel shims both sides, the lower one seems to be floating and causing wear.
 
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SummitFever

Eats Squid
... the steel shim is at the wrong end to reduce travel...
It works by shortening the stroke (ie. the shock can't extend fully). Speci do this on various models of shock to create their own "special" versions (with shorter stroke and shorter eye-to-eye).

Here's an extreme example of how I short stroked a fox shock for a kids bike:

 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
It works by shortening the stroke (ie. the shock can't extend fully). Speci do this on various models of shock to create their own "special" versions (with shorter stroke and shorter eye-to-eye).

Here's an extreme example of how I short stroked a fox shock for a kids bike:

Slap me if I'm way off track here Summit, when the spacer on the damper rod is longer then the air cans 0% to sag position (~30%) distance as set by the notch, I understand and appreciate we reduce the e-e and stroke with the spacer. But when the spacer is 1.3mm thick, the air can notch is still going to set the sag position, and I would think the 1.3mm spacer is perceptually floating, unless the full negative spring travel is used on extreme rebound events?
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Slap me if I'm way off track here Summit, when the spacer on the damper rod is longer then the air cans 0% to sag position (~30%) distance as set by the notch, I understand and appreciate we reduce the e-e and stroke with the spacer. But when the spacer is 1.3mm thick, the air can notch is still going to set the sag position, and I would think the 1.3mm spacer is perceptually floating, unless the full negative spring travel is used on extreme rebound events?
The spacer will reduce the eye-to-eye on the shock by 1.3mm (or whatever thickness spacer anyone wants to put in that position). When the shock is not under load the damper rod / piston will be hard up against that washer.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
The spacer will reduce the eye-to-eye on the shock by 1.3mm (or whatever thickness spacer anyone wants to put in that position). When the shock is not under load the damper rod / piston will be hard up against that washer.

Thanks, I've a dead rp23 I'll go play with and contemplate.
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
In the true spirit of the prolonged nature of this thread, Iv been able to vacuum the assembly, but can't run the compressor at night, so can't actually bleed. Damn it! Need a receiver tank for compressed air.


 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
In the true spirit of the prolonged nature of this thread, Iv been able to vacuum the assembly, but can't run the compressor at night, so can't actually bleed. Damn it! Need a receiver tank for compressed air.



:dance::dance::dance::bounce::bounce::bounce::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::whoo::whoo::whoo:

I can vacuum bleed without compressed air, 1atm is enough. Just a bit slow.


and I have a leak in the rig, or my fittings. Oil is in the shock but some squishy noises still.
 
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rider124

Likes Bikes and Dirt
:dance::dance::dance::bounce::bounce::bounce::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::whoo::whoo::whoo:

I can vacuum bleed without compressed air, 1atm is enough. Just a bit slow.


and I have a leak in the rig, or my fittings. Oil is in the shock but some squishy noises still.
man, id get so frustrated by doing all of this, taking the time and effort you have, yet you get that result!
now for the fun process of working out where the hell its coming from:pop2::pop2:
 

link1896

Mr Greenfield
man, id get so frustrated by doing all of this, taking the time and effort you have, yet you get that result!
now for the fun process of working out where the hell its coming from:pop2::pop2:

Further progress tonight with bleeding, now running on my hand dyno with no noises. We have arrived I believe. Might get it onto the bike tomorrow night.

 

MARKL

Eats Squid
Link, this is an epic thread, I would have burnt the thing by now. Looking forward to you taking it for a ride.
 
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