SCHWALBE TYRES MEGATHREAD: read this thread before posting new ones

[Mywifesirrational]

1) You're taking more material out of the wheels. If you see no issues with that, then why don't manufactures drill out holes in all the gaps between spokes?

Probably to stop water and mud entering the rim and the extra cost of manufacturing, for very little weight loss.

But, yeah there'd be a structural issue with putting lots of holes in rims, one extra... would that make a difference if correctly drilled? is the area around the valve hole any different, thickness etc to the rast of the rim?

 

[tasty.dirt74]

1) why don't manufactures drill out holes in all the gaps between spokes?

Some do...

 

[shakes]

To the haters - why can't he do it just cause?

Im guessing that it would be pretty cheap to set up and if it doesn't work, I could always wait for and buy the actual Schwalbe system...

It would only work if the inner 'tire', squeezed the outer tire against the rim. It will be a huge amount of trial and error to find the right tire/s and rim combo to make this work properly. then you have the issue of pumping your main tire

 

[teK--]

Just run a slime tube it's gonna be lighter than any ghetto dual chamber system.

 

[No Skid Marks]

To the haters - why can't he do it just cause?



It would only work if the inner 'tire', squeezed the outer tire against the rim. It will be a huge amount of trial and error to find the right tire/s and rim combo to make this work properly. then you have the issue of pumping your main tire

Just getting outer tyre on might be painful. The rest will be easy. Inner tyre doesn't need to do anything and can be inflated secondly then outer tyre pressure reduced if need. That's how I see it anyway.

 

[L3ONNOEL]

Is the purpose of this system to reduce damaged rims? "THE" makes rims exactly for this... similar to the mx system without the air

 

[driftking]

1.If you inflate a road tube to insanely high pressure it still gets pretty large.
2.what is to stop the inner tire from moving around?

t-Rex did a not so similar system but It was a tube inside tubeless that gave it some more protection. Helps reduce prevent burping and gives and extra protective measure from any side wall pinches.

 

[No Skid Marks]

Is the purpose of this system to reduce damaged rims? "THE" makes rims exactly for this... similar to the mx system without the air

I'd say it's purpose is primarily to avoid flats(pinch flats mainly), it should allow you to finnish your run, and yes protect rim better but I think this is more a bonus than the main purpose..

 

[LukeJH]

Yes the idea is to eliminate pinch flats and allow you to run lower pressures. I've been running DH tyres tubeless for a while now but I have even gotten a snakebite through a UST tyre...

I had a look at the THE rims but that involves buying a new rim, getting it laced...


I believe that the inner tyre (with a tube inside it) would stay in place as how can it go anywhere? It would lock the outer MTB tyre in place and reduce chances of burping the tubeless outer MTB tyre when running lower pressures in it.
I still think that the inner tube and tyre once pumped up would 'seal' the valve for the outer tubeless MTB tyre bit so you would not be able to change the outer tubeless pressure.


I was just seeing if anyone else out there had tried this.


My reasoning behind this is that flats suck full stop. And putting in a maxxis DH tube adds 430g of weight where as this would add 300g

 

[redbruce]

1.If you inflate a road tube to insanely high pressure it still gets pretty large.
2.what is to stop the inner tire from moving around?

t-Rex did a not so similar system but It was a tube inside tubeless that gave it some more protection. Helps reduce prevent burping and gives and extra protective measure from any side wall pinches.

http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?273598-Why-the-pros-run-tubes/page6&highlight=trex

 

[Duane]

Schwalbe tire construction advice needed.

Sorry if it's been covered before, I did a quick search and failed.

I'm thinking of giving some schwalbe Magic Mary and Hans D. tires a go on the Enduro 29 and noticed there is quite a bit of difference in weights between the snakeskin, the "super gravity" and the downhill. I've read about the extra plies and construction but what I'd like to know is how bad/good are the lightweight snakeskin versions? Do they flat just way too easily?

I can rule out the downhill version on the 29er so it comes down to the other two, in a Magic Mary however there is about 300grams the difference, that amount of weight at the circumference is going to have an affect obviously so I want to run the lightweight tires but I'm concerned they are just going to be too weak.

I hope to be running them in some 35mm 29" Zelvys (ordering soon), used for trailring but I want to give some vic gravity enduro rounds a go too.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Nerdbox]

Sorry if it's been covered before, I did a quick search and failed.

I'm thinking of giving some schwalbe Magic Mary and Hans D. tires a go on the Enduro 29 and noticed there is quite a bit of difference in weights between the snakeskin, the "super gravity" and the downhill. I've read about the extra plies and construction but what I'd like to know is how bad/good are the lightweight snakeskin versions? Do they flat just way too easily?

I can rule out the downhill version on the 29er so it comes down to the other two, in a Magic Mary however there is about 300grams the difference, that amount of weight at the circumference is going to have an affect obviously so I want to run the lightweight tires but I'm concerned they are just going to be too weak.

I hope to be running them in some 35mm 29" Zelvys (ordering soon), used for trailring but I want to give some vic gravity enduro rounds a go too.

Thanks in advance.

Snakeskin Magic Marys and Hans Dampfs are stong enough for gravity enduro / AM. Snakeskin is only piss weak on the Nobby Nic, Racing Ralph etc.

Supergravity for lightweights riding DH or for DH trails with bugger all sharp edges.

 

[Ivan]

I see three issues with achieving a good ghetto setup.

• Getting the low pressure (main) air chamber valve through the smaller high pressure chamber, and making and making this piercing or interface withstand high pressures (100 psi)
• Selecting the right high pressure chamber that it provides both effective bead lock of the low pressure chamber and has the right height to provide pinch flat resistance. A tube will be to elastic for this purpose, and a tyre is not a sealed chamber. Maybe a very light tubular tyre is the best solution.
• Doing both of the above and keeping the weight down to around 200g.

 

[No Skid Marks]

I see three issues with achieving a good ghetto setup.

• Getting the low pressure (main) air chamber valve through the smaller high pressure chamber, and making it to withstand high pressures (100 psi)There's a brand that does tubes that have sealed ends(so not round) I believe. Anyone know it?
• Selecting the right high pressure chamber that it provides both effective bead lock of the low pressure chamber and has the right height to provide pinch flat resistance. A tube will be to elastic for this purpose, and a tyre is not a sealed chamber. Maybe a very light tubular tyre is the best solution.I wonder if you could stitch up the inner tyre or something. Maybe add a thick trye liner or something.
• Doing both of the above and keeping the weight down to around 200g.

Keeping the weight down is the kickback for this. IMO the weight is not worth the durability, but the OP doesn't mind. Will be good to see his weight once done.
I wonder if some plumbers pipe insulation over a tube and taped up somehow would work. Might be lighter than a tyre. There must be some other flexible but stiff tubing that could be used.

 

[LukeJH]

I had planned on a 26X1.0" slick tyre with a thin tube as this would take high pressure locking the mtb tyre bead in place.

The Schwalbe Durano weighs 260 grams. So i still see this weighing less than a maxxis DH tube (430g)

 

[SOTTA]

+1 for the above. SS Magic Mary Hans Dampf combo is plenty tough enough for most riding. I've found them to be great on very rocky trails. Just don't expect this to be a fast rolling combo. Cornering grip in spades but not fast rolling.

 

[madstace]

Maybe a bit off-topic but does anyone have any experience with the longevity of the snakeskin version of the Magic Mary? I rated the HDs until the side knobs started to tear well before they were worn. Once they start to separate the tyre gets quite squirmish in turns. Not really keen to put money down (HDs came with the bike) for tyres that are going to do the same thing.

 

[Ivan]

Don't forget to add the tube weight as well.

 

[No Skid Marks]

I had planned on a 26X1.0" slick tyre with a thin tube as this would take high pressure locking the mtb tyre bead in place.

The Schwalbe Durano weighs 260 grams. So i still see this weighing less than a maxxis DH tube (430g)

Will the tube try and work it's way out under the inner tyre though? If inner tube did puncture from this, would outer tyres pressure then increase?

 

[LukeJH]

I've had a 26x1.5" tube on a mtb rim before pumped up to 90 psi and the tube definitely does not work its way out under the inner tyre...

Yes if the inner tube punctured to extra pressure would then enter the tubeless outer mtb tyre and increase its pressure a little bit.

But to puncture the inner tube you would have to go through both the other mtb tyre and inner road tyre... That would be one hell of a cased jump or massive rock edge...