Rockshox Reverb problems

TimW'supWatson?

Likes Bikes
Hi all,
I just bought a secondhand bike and the Reverb seat post is in a funk, warranty isn't an option so I'm hoping someone might know what's going on.

The post sags a lot once weighted and sags further when riding. Air pressure was 250psi when I checked. The seat can also be lifted upwards very easily. It ascends much slower than the only other Reverb I have ridden on.

My current plan is to replace the hydraulic fluid, maybe get new seals, any thoughts?
Thanks
Tim
 

SuchisLife

Likes Dirt
To buy the seals, the service kit and fluid it will almost be cheaper to get it serviced. And if you take it somewhere familiar with reverbs they will have seen it all before.
 

yuley95

Rides a great parmie
Sounds like a common reverb problem that is often fixed under warranty. Happened to me and I was lucky enough the original owner passed on use reciept info so I could get it fixed.

Any chance you can contact original,owner to get the warranty claim done?
 

Stumpy13

Likes Bikes
Could be that you might just need to bleed the system. This happened to a couple of months back. Just did a basic bleed and it was back to working like new. Question though. You mentioned air pressure? Correct me if i'm wrong but the rockshox reverb is hydraulic and does not require air. Might be that you have a Commandpost or another air actuated seat dropper?


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FC'n

Squid
I had very similar symptoms and when I removed the post there was a fair bit of hydraulic fluid in the seat tube. Sounds like the lower seal head. If you haven't already, just type mtbr reverb thread into google and look for posts by laterilus who seems to know what he is on about
 

Stumpy13

Likes Bikes
Doh!!! Thanks for the correction Moorey! Should've done my research before posting! At least I've learned something today! :D


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Dreggsy

Likes Bikes and Dirt
do not pass go

yep needs a full service, i don't think it would come cheap though, $200+

do not pass go, send it straight to sram dsd in Melbourne
 

TimW'supWatson?

Likes Bikes
Thanks for the advice peeps, I'll review the symptons and might try the bleed first off as well as contacting the original bike owner who said he'd send me the purchase documents once he can get to them...
 

Nerf Herder

Wheel size expert
Lots of Youtube vids on how to service ... watch them a few times, take your time ... not that complicated and you have nothing to lose by learning how it works.
 

SaabG

Likes Dirt
It needs a rebuild that only sram can do. In the first generation there was a problem with a lower bushing or something. It's a defect that sram has remedied with a newer design that is now fitted to all the reverbs being sold now. Mine was done by sram after warranty period for free which I'm sure is pretty standard because it's a known fault. Get in contact with sram and I'm sure they'll sort you out.
 

Rabble bukes

Likes Dirt
On this subject, i have a reverb stealth that came on a brand new bike i bought 11 months ago. So i think it would still be under warranty. Anyway, it has developed same problem as OP, and i was going to bleed it and check air pressure, but maybe i'd be better off just trying warranty? I'd ask shop i bought it from, but they closed up shop a few months back.
 

miko

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I've just rebuilt mine, it is finicky, but not overly hard if you actually think about it. The first stop is always to bleed it to make sure that system is working properly. If there is air in the line from the remote then the poppet valve inside the post will always be open and it will not be able to hold position. The post relies on hydraulic lock to stop movement. If you're confident the bleed is fine then you'll have to dive into the post. It is possible that there are blown sealing rings, but I'd say that's less likely than a poor bleed.

Air pressure is just there to return the post to extended. If it's not returning, check air pressure. If it's not locking, check remote and lines.
 

kwikee

Likes Dirt
I've just rebuilt mine, it is finicky, but not overly hard if you actually think about it. The first stop is always to bleed it to make sure that system is working properly. If there is air in the line from the remote then the poppet valve inside the post will always be open and it will not be able to hold position. The post relies on hydraulic lock to stop movement. If you're confident the bleed is fine then you'll have to dive into the post. It is possible that there are blown sealing rings, but I'd say that's less likely than a poor bleed.

Air pressure is just there to return the post to extended. If it's not returning, check air pressure. If it's not locking, check remote and lines.
Did you do the full seal kit and top cap? Mine has a bit of play in it and needs a new cap, but it seems you need to pretty much rebuild it to do the cap anyway. Did you have access to the RockShox tools for oil level, seal insertion etc?
 

MattCox

Cannon Fodder
Just had the first ride on a 'new' reverb stealth post.....
Its a warranty replacement for my new(february) bike.(post used 4 times)
Is the seatpost ment to move up and down approx 5 t 10mm ,when fully extended? It just doesnt seem right :tsk:
Its sortve like its got suspension at the top of its stroke......
was installed by bikeshop.
 

Big AC

Likes Dirt
Just had the first ride on a 'new' reverb stealth post.....
Its a warranty replacement for my new(february) bike.(post used 4 times)
Is the seatpost ment to move up and down approx 5 t 10mm ,when fully extended? It just doesnt seem right :tsk:
Its sortve like its got suspension at the top of its stroke......
was installed by bikeshop.
It should locked out and solid. Could be a bleed job or PSI issue, or another failure. Some people get fault free service from their reverbs; however, a lot of others (myself included) have nothing but problems which start after very free rides.

There are many threads around here filled with people having reverb problems. If a bleed job and or PSI check don't solve the problem then take it back to your LBS.

BTW welcome to RB
 

Gripo

Eats Squid
It should locked out and solid. Could be a bleed job or PSI issue, or another failure. Some people get fault free service from their reverbs; however, a lot of others (myself included) have nothing but problems which start after very free rides.

There are many threads around here filled with people having reverb problems. If a bleed job and or PSI check don't solve the problem then take it back to your LBS.

BTW welcome to RB
Have similar up/dn movement (5mm if that) develop on my not used much Reverb Stealth and was suggested the same.

Maybe some air has worked it's way into the system when I cut the hose to install the post....was a few months ago.

I like the Reverbs hydraulic set anywhere posi...
 

miko

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Did you do the full seal kit and top cap? Mine has a bit of play in it and needs a new cap, but it seems you need to pretty much rebuild it to do the cap anyway. Did you have access to the RockShox tools for oil level, seal insertion etc?
I did a full seal kit but reused my top cap. Just to confirm, are you talking about the top cap that you can see externally that has RockShox etched on it? If so, you only need to partially disassemble the post to change that (be very relieved!) so you don't need any special SRAM tools unless the post is leaking internally and does actually need a rebuild. Watch the YouTube videos from SRAM, it will make sense.

You would be doing the following:
- Releasing all the air out
- Removing the bottom snap ring and sliding up the lower post
- Clamping the revealed internal shaft and removing the bottom seal head containing the air valve. This needs a 23mm spanner as well as some way to clamp the shaft. I made a clamp by drilling a hole in a block of wood and then cutting down the middle of the hole with a saw. Put it in the vice without too much pressure and you're done. From memory the hole was 8mm. Remove o rings and foam ring.
- Slide the lower back down and undo the top cap. To hold this I simply put the post back in my bike :)
- Slide up the top cap and the lower tube down, slowly. There are 3 brass keys recessed into the outside of the top tube that prevent rotation, you don't want to lose them. Put them somewhere safe.
- Lube up the new top cap and slide it on.
- Reverse the above. Use some grease to hold the keys in.

I did not have access to any of the RockShox tools other than a bleed kit, but the post was already bled so I didn't use it in this procedure.

When I did it I had my tablet handy with the YouTube videos up. There was a lot of pausing! They are very helpful though.
 

bgs

Likes Bikes
On this subject, i have a reverb stealth that came on a brand new bike i bought 11 months ago. So i think it would still be under warranty. Anyway, it has developed same problem as OP, and i was going to bleed it and check air pressure, but maybe i'd be better off just trying warranty? I'd ask shop i bought it from, but they closed up shop a few months back.
If you haven't already, contact SRAM immediately. I got a reverb with my brand new bike 11 months ago also. Exactly the same problem as you guys. The bike shop said that heaps of reverbs have been returned on warranty. They didn't tell me exactly what was wrong with it, but SRAM just replaced it with a brand new one.
 
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