In that case smooth out the high spot. The loss in area will not be noticeable.
Pike Bushing Damage Help!!!
- Thread starter stinkytodamax
- Start date
Flow-Rider
Burner
I heard that also, measured the bore on the Rev's with telescopic gauges and it was the same size all the way through. You need to hone the lower legs to help the new bushing go in easily as you score the bore removing the old bushes and mine were very tight to remove also.
I found the coating thickness on the stanchion changes or it wears over time and if you don't replace the bush to the same spot it gets rather tight.
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teK--
Eats Squid
Fox are cunts too. They don't sell most tools and small parts to the public nor do they share much of their technical service information.
stinkytodamax
Likes Dirt
thinking of an x fusion McQueen if I can find a cheap one.
Where re would one find a good value mattoc?
L.P.
Likes Bikes and Dirt
SummitFever
Eats Squid
^^^ This. That damage to the surface layer of the bushing is nothing. That same bushing on the SID has large (6-8mm?) holes in it to save weight.
Using a sharp knife remove as much of the teflon glide layer as you need to get it flush or a bit lower. The top layer is quite soft as you have found out so its easily removed.
Z
Zaf
Guest
You need to get onto Cyclinic!!! (https://www.cyclinic.com.au)
The guys there are ridiculously helpful, and their webstore stocks most everything (and pretty sure they're willing to help with anything that's not listed).
Most of the Fox servicing is up on their website now the only stuff I have trouble finding technical documents for are the collaborative items like RE:aktiv, Gemini, DRCV, etc.
But OP's problem is ridiculous. You can buy second hand entire forks for the quote they've given you on the lower there. Have you contacted a suspension servicing company to see if they can quote you on a fix? You'll be up for a servicing fee at the very least, plus some parts (but bushings are cheap). If they do offer a solution I imagine it'll come in at about a third of the quote already given....and services the fork at the same time.
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stinkytodamax
Likes Dirt
Flow-Rider
Burner
Do what ever you like but I honestly think you're making a mole hill into a mountain. You just need to remove the high spots, you've already got oil reliefs slots that have decreased the bush contact surface area, that little bit more isn't going to hurt it.
If you're really worried about it, you might be able to try a fitters shop that overhauls hydraulic rams. If they can find a similar sized bush they can finish it off to size.
I would repair that for you if I was local. Very simple fix.
stinkytodamax
Likes Dirt
I'm glad everyone is positive of a fix for it.
From the 3 shops and suspension guru's all though it was a case of replace. All had seen the photo or handled the lowers.
Having an automotive and track racing background I didn't think it was a big problem but all the advice I was receiving from people in the industry was concerning enough for me to get MTB Suspension Centre to throw it through the hone to remove without doubt the high spot.
I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
SummitFever
Eats Squid
I hope that's just a euphemism. The bushings are a type of tin/brass metal with a teflon based glide coating which is around 0.5mm thick. Any sort of abrasive hone will leave grit particles embedded in the glide coating. This will destroy your stanchion in the blink of an eye. In addition, the bushings are factory inserted into a tapered bore at a depth that will ensure the proper fit with the stanchion. Removing any material except the high spots at the point of damage will bugger the bushing. There is no way to properly use a hone to remove the damage shown. The end of sharp knife is the only way to go.
I am amazed at the bad advice you have received from 3 shops and a "suspension guru". Perhaps this is explainable on the basis they want to sell you a set of lowers at 60% markup?
stinkytodamax
Likes Dirt
yes mate it was. They are just trying to remove the high spot if they can. I'm fine by shops being cautious but have felt encouraged by the advice here.
Rock Shox creating an unserviceable product is what has bothered me the most.
Flow-Rider
Burner
I find it hard to believe that the bore for the bushes are tapered, 1. you would have damaged the bottom bush hitting it through the top tapered bore, 2. it will distort the bush big time and it will not sit parallel with the stanchion because you would have needed some sort of matching taper on the outer of the bush. All the rockshox forks I've seen from factory have the top bushes installed flush, if there's a taper there for adjustment I would have expected to find them to be hit in all over the place. I read some of the early posts on here, decided to measure mine with telescopic gauges and they proved to be straight machined bores.
I don't think the biggest problem with a stone hone will be that it will leaves grit behind but that it will take out too much material to start with especial when the bush is already to size. If you've cleaned the stone from your last job on a metal surface, I doubt teflon will make the stone fall apart but rather block it up with the soft material that it removes.
When I install new bushes if need be, I hone them out by hand with 1000 grit wet and dry taped to a shaft I machined down on a lathe with water as the lubricant. They normally have to go down about less of half a thou. which isn't very much, best thing to do would have been to buy a reamer set but I'm not going to buy a set of reamers that I need just for a few personal jobs. I give the fork legs a good final clean with a bottle brush, it's time consuming but I've never had any issues.
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swaz
Likes Bikes and Dirt
This of any use to you?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/471...28363057233702/?sale_post_id=1628363057233702
https://www.facebook.com/groups/471...28363057233702/?sale_post_id=1628363057233702
I would have used a white metal bearing scraper...
Good luck on the repairs.
Good luck on the repairs.
c3024446
Likes Bikes and Dirt
They are only doing this to cover themselves. They sure as hell wouldn't want to risk saying it'll be fine, then the OP comes in furious at a worn stanchion based on that advice.
This is based on prior experience with a lefty. I had what I would call a mildly worn lower leg, the specialist suggested replace which I agreed to. Now i know more about suspension, it really could have lasted much, much longer. Good thing is, if the new leg goes kaput I can put the old one back on myself for free
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