Old bike vs new bike.

jett_e

Likes Bikes
So I have been getting back into downhill riding after a 10 year + absence and have been hitting the local trail on the 15 year old dinosaur getting to a point where I'm nailing some sections and building myself up to hit the bigger stuff. The bikes feeling good although its probably not cutting it with the newer bikes out there and I'm trying to convince my partner that its time to get a new bike. Anyway, months of deliberation and eyeing the For Sale threads and eBay like a hawk, I finally go out and purchase a used Commencal Supreme DH with all the good bits and was itching to throw it down the local trail ASAP.

Got my chance yesterday and after a couple of easy runs to gauge the bike, i am thinking to myself "Have I wasted my money..". Don't get me wrong, its an awesome bike in all areas as far as weight, braking and suspension and it gets up to speed a lot quicker then the old Craftworks but after a couple of stacks, it feels like I have to start from scratch again. With the old bike it felt like i was sitting in the bike and it was in control, with the new bike it feels like there needs to be a lot more rider input.

The question I put out there. Is there anyone else with a similar experience and should I stick it out and get use to it? Or get back on the old bike and enjoy the limited riding time that I do have?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

MARKL

Eats Squid
You had 15 years of bonding with the old bike, getting used to its quirks, fiddling with it getting the set up just perfect. The new bike feels different, is it...

the width of the bars?
the rise and or sweep of the bars?
different pedals?
suspension set up not right?
suspension set up different?
weight?
weight distribution?
reach and stack?

They all make a difference, however small. I try to keep bars similar between bikes - different widths same sweep. Set brakes and shifters up the same so all the controls fall easily to hand - doesn't matter what bike I get on - I always use SRAM shifters and I try to have as similar a feel as possible in the brakes. Spend some time on setup and work up to what you were doing on the old bike.

Then just give it some time.
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
I have the same bike and for me it took some time to get used to after switching from my 2007 FR glory.
When I sat on the bike though I felt right at home it just took me a while to get the confidence on the trail with such a change in bike size and geo.

I am using a Rc4 out back and I can help with that set up if needed.

The bike will work best in the middle or long CS length. I use the middle and it definitely feels much more at home here. I also use flat crowns to get the end down a little more and I find this really works well. It steepens the HA by a degree so I do need to throw in the HA sleeve to get it back to 64.

With modern bikes they tend to be stiffer then the older 135 and 73mm and older designs (not sure if your old bike had that) design and structure improvements have also being made, but as bikes have gotten stiffer you need to really ride them and the commencal needs this.

The bike will come alive when you push it, you cant just go along for the ride with this bike it is by all means a race bike and really needs to be ridden like one.
Yes you can set it up more casual, but Its more at home been ridden hard.

what are the exact issues or feelings you are getting that worry you?
And yes the commencal suffers from brake bob under braking so you will get stiffening of the shock.
 
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jett_e

Likes Bikes
Thanks for the feedback guys.

The width off the handlebars are off putting. I'm using a 780 mm bar with a 30 mm rise.The old bars were only 640 wide with a 45 mm rise. I'm thinking off getting some new bars with a higher rise and cutting them back to 720mm first and see how that feels.
The weight and weight distribution is an issue but that's something I will have to get use to. The old bike is a Craftworks DHR with Monster T's which weighed almost 23kg's with most of that weight towards the front of the bike so it was easy just getting off the back and plowing through the rough stuff. Not sure what the Commencal weighs but its definitely lighter and more balanced.
The brakes have also evolved quite substantially from what i am used to. The new bike has Saint brakes and they have so much more stopping power then the Hayes set up that I have had forever. They were the best brakes to have back in the day and you could grab a fistful of the rear to get you through tight corners.
The Commencal corners so well and so fast that the exit speed can be daunting especially with a gap jump or the like not far beyond the corner to line up.

I will definitely be tinkering with the suspension and might even look at getting a specialist to help me out. The old bikes rear shock has no rebound or compression adjusters and I was fortunate that it worked well with the Monsters. The new bike is running an RC4 out back with a 300 lb spring which is a bit light for my weight (94kg's) with Fox 40's. I have a 450 lb spring on its way.

Any advice with setting the rear suspension would be much appreciated and thanks for the offer Drift King. The fact that you mention the bike is a true race bike and needs to be ridden hard scares me but excites me at the same time and makes me want to get out there and ride it like it should be ridden.
 

Mywifesirrational

I however am very normal. Trust me.
So I have been getting back into downhill riding after a 10 year +

Got my chance yesterday and after a couple of easy runs to gauge the bike, i am thinking to myself "Have I wasted my money..". Don't get me wrong, its an awesome bike in all areas as far as weight, braking and suspension and it gets up to speed a lot quicker then the old Craftworks but after a couple of stacks, it feels like I have to start from scratch again. With the old bike it felt like i was sitting in the bike and it was in control, with the new bike it feels like there needs to be a lot more rider input.
I did the same thing after not riding DH for 10 years and had a similar initial impression, its taken me about 6 months to get completely used to the new bike (+ sort out all the suspension settings), modern long, low and slack geometry initially was @#$% house! I found that the slacker head angle (64) made the bike really sluggish unless it was steep and fast. Once I got comfortable getting off the brakes it started to come together.

Give it time, play around with bars and stems. I still think the old DH bike (Turner Afterburner) is more fun/playful, but the new bike is a lot faster, smoother and predictable - as long as it is up to speed.
 

captainmorgan

Likes Dirt
I got a new bike last year after about 10 years with my old bike. My new bike came with about 780 width bars and I was used to 640. I switched the bars back to 640 and was amazed at the control I had again. I don't know why people have gone to wider bars, I felt like I was driving a bus with them.
 

nastylilweed

Likes Dirt
It all comes down to personal preference.

You'll get used to the wider bars, I have given them a go and found them really awesome, especially through the rougher stuff. Remember there is 10 years of suspension and geo development underneath you compared to you previous bike.

Whoever bought up the fact it is a race bike is a legend. It is so true, a specifically race developed bike will not perform until you open it right up. Get off the breaks, watch your body position into the corners and techy sections and learn to trust the bike. You'll go from feeling like you are riding out of control to riding super smooth and super fast without even realising it. Just accept that it will be uncomfortably fast for a while...

Getting a new bike can be a trying time especially when jumping from one extreme to the other like you have

Who cares as long as you're having fun. I think most people forget that part....
 

Nerf Herder

Wheel size expert
Wide bars and bar height make a big difference when jumping from one rig to another. I personally hate 780s ... but then again I jumped from an 750 11deg backsweep bar to a 780 flat bar and it just sucked. I understand not everybody has the luxury of using trial and error for setup ... but I went from 680 to 737 to 750 to 780 and back to 750 over several years ... so can only imagine what kind of a weird shock jumping from 640 to 780s must feel like.

I went from a 2001 Kona Stab to a VPP rig ... and I can only tell you New rigs rock :nod: ... old geo versus modern Geo ... old suspension kinematics versus rearward super active magic and finally the brick with wheels versus a jet fighter that just wants to let loose.

All that said my advice is to look at suspension setup. Right spring rates, not over sprung, not too slow in the rebound ... all of these things have changed dramatically from my old setup to my new. Really get to know what the adjusters do and how it feels on any given track and you'll be in love with what ever rig your riding.

Good luck and welcome back.
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
When I jump on the computer I will post up some basic guides for the RC4.
In terms of the spring this is the most important so make sure the 450 is right.
I know Gee atherton ran a 350 and I think he hit the 85kg mark. So you might find the 450 too hard.
I am only running a 250 for my measly 60kgs :) and may go to a 275lb.
While the pro's have custom dampening the spring rate should still be fairly comparable.

You will probably be fine with it but just double check.

The bar thing would make sense, the front end is already lower now and by going lower rise you further push forward, then by going wider it further pushes weight forward.
Before you cut the bars though ride with everything in board. The width that matters is where you hold the bars. So try riding in different hand positions on the bars to find your comfortable spot.

If you want the bike to feel a little more park you can try rubing 25-30%saf and using the short CS position. That will give a more playful feel. But it really is a race bike so it is more at home on the limit. You will find this bike is one of those ones that gets better the harder you go.
 
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driftking

Wheel size expert
OP I forgot to get back to this thread earlier but here is the information I have on the RC4.
I have tried to make detailed yet understandable.

Most important thing is spring rate. You need to make sure you are sitting on 30-35% sag, I personally use the middle chain stay setting and run about 30% works well. At approximately 60kg I use a 250 and maybe going to a 275. Gee atherton on this frame at 80kg used a 350.
You can use the following calculators to check.
http://www.bearandwife.com/bear/cycling/springcalc.html - my personal go to
http://www.tftunedshox.com/info/spring_calculator.aspx - my cross check.

After the spring rate is right its time to get rebound sorted out first.

Rebound- Obvious one this one, the rate at which the suspension rebounds or extends after compression, if you have too much rebound dampening (too slow) the bike will pack down, this means that the suspension wont recover enough from a previous hit before it hits another one which means the suspension continues to get lower and lower in its travel. Not enough dampening (too fast) the bike doesn't settle in its travel and you loose traction and you get a harsh or unstable ride.
A good way to understand packing is if you use 3 inches then it rebounds 2 then you hit another bump you use another 3 then rebound two you can see using 6inches and rebounding 4 means that the fork is packing down (getting lower). You want a balance.
Too fast and the bike will feel unstable and kicky, basically it is reverse you are using say 4 and the suspension is trying to rebound 6 which is impossible so you end up with suspension kicking the suspension back.
Some people run very soft suspension and use faster rebound to account for the excess use, while others like my self use a stiff set up and use slower rebound.I prefer the stiff set up, It results in a bike that skimps over holes rather than falling in them, it also helps keep geometry stable.

Compression:Basically LSC is low speed shaft movements and HSC is highspeed shaft movements (this does not mean the bike speed although this will have affect as I will elaborate on later)

HSC - This controls virtually all the bumps and rock gardens you encounter, it controls the harshness felt initially or the initial compliance in the shock to forces and over all travel use in rock gardens and rough terrain. I.e you want the suspension to use appropriate travel, if a bump requires 3inches you want to use 3inches no more no less. Test high and low settings.

LSC - This controls the body movement and momentum shift on the trail so under pedaling LSC can be used to control bob, Under braking LSC can be used to control dive. Set this up to avoid too much dive or travel use under body movement like smooth corners and pedaling/dive. This is also used in wallowing holes. basically anything that results in a slow shaft speed compression. Again I always suggest you try a high setting and then a low setting to get a extreme feel of what I am talking about.

Pressure (BV) - The pressure in the shock chamber controls the overall dampening of the shock but can primarily be used to control support in the suspension / mid speed compression. I use about 170. Always stay within the recommended ranges. This basically is the support in the shock.

Bottom out control - BOC controls how much the suspension ramps up towards the end of its travel. or how progressive it it.

Brief explanation of pressure and BOC use.

Lets assume you have the right spring rate and set the HSC and LSC and rebound up correctly as these are the simple ones.
If you find our are using too much travel in the rough you need to up your HSC, however if upping the HSC makes the bike harsh on square edge hits, initial compliance or in the rough, instead try upping the Pressure. By upping the pressure you are placing more support in the shock and you should notice that you use less travel but the bike is not harsh as HSC is kept the same. (remember HSC controls initial compliance of a HSC hits.)

If you find you have now set up the bike for the rough but are still bottoming out on big hits and again changing HSC or upping pressure makes the ride too harsh or too stiff, this is where you use the BOC, this will make the ending stroke of the shock ramp up more.


Now if the following is confusing or you cannot grasp the idea than disregard it and just go on everything else in the post.

Now there is some cross over with HSC and LSC depending on your riding speed in reality we are not using one of the other but generally a mix of both. The faster you are the harder you hit things the more velocity is put through the suspension. This becomes a issue as slow riders will be relying more so on LSC than HSC, as you become faster more bumps become HSC and less become LSC, so for a slow rider who is trying to control support and bump absorption it becomes difficult as slower riders, more bumps are LSC due to less velocity and lower shaft speed. More support means more LSC but more bump absorption means less LSC. So there will be some cross over. The faster the rider the less cross over there is. So being a fast rider actually makes suspension set up and performance easier.
Ie. slow riders 50% is HSC 50% is LSC. now you are trying to control 50% of bumps with LSC and your also trying to control momentum and movement with LSC so this means the LSC is stretched between two things with more compromise. As you get faster more bumps become HSC so the faster you go you might end up with bumps being controlled by 80%HSC and 20% LSC, this means that the LSC can be focused on its job rather than bump absorption, hence less compromise.
LSC also has a minor affect on initial traction but this will be found out during testing.

I hope that helps.


Now the information I received in regards to my set up on the commencal is as follows. note: this is assuming you have the right spring rate.
Air pressure, start with 150, run higher pressure for more support / mid-speed compression and to increase the end stroke control.
For HSC, start mid range, negative 6 clicks.
For LSC, negative 6 to 8 clicks.
For rebound, start with the adjuster negative 6 to 8 clicks.

When it says negative, you need to turn the adjusters to full on or full positive and count backwards clicks. As for BOC this is dependent on the bike, start with BOC zero and adjust as you test and tune.


Remember the order
spring rate
rebound
LSC/HSC
pressure
BOC

I hope that all makes sense and helps with the RC4.

DK
 

jett_e

Likes Bikes
Thanks DK for getting me up to speed with the info on the RC 4. I am a bit of a suspension noob and didn't realise there was so much to it. When i first read your post it was like reading another language but I'm starting to get it now.

I tried out a 450 pound spring which I found quite stiff so have opted for a 400 which I pick up next week so I will dial the shock up based on what you say and I'll let u know how it goes.

Thanks to everyone else who passed on there experiences as well. I have cut the bars down and it feels more at home already.

I did fail to mention in my original post that I built the bike up last Friday night and did half a lap of the car park the next morning before throwing myself down the local DH track...Don't know what I was thinking but I have a deep hematoma in my thigh to remind me of it.
 

driftking

Wheel size expert
Suspension is a big thing to confront when you are a newbie to it, It seems like there is so much information but it will soon be very easy to understand.

Remember that setting up the shock should be done on the trail. Carpark is a poor indicator so don't judge the suspension based on that.

To get a good grasp on it all. Start with the settings in blue they were give to me by ken at tekin (he recently sold) his pretty much the goto guy with suspension.

A good way to get a idea is to do extreme testing
Use the blue settings then add and minus +/- 4 or 5 clicks of the different compressions (HSC & LSC) individually you will soon understand what they do.

With rebound it's about minor tweaks. If you want to test the extremes ie fast and slow do so in the car park for this. When you test the super fast rebound it's dangerous on trail as it may kick you over the bars so Carpark for extremes testing with rebound is fine.

If you aren't Fussed with extreme testing don't worry just use the blue settings and go from there on the trail.

final note with suspension knowledge is power with setting it up. Realistically suspension is very easy to set up once you understand.
You feel A you adjust A
You feel b you adjust b

It really gets that easy once You understand it. You know why the suspension feels a certain way and you know how to fix it.

Always change one thing at a time by one click or small increments. And write every change down.
 
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No Skid Marks

Blue Mountain Bikes Brooklyn/Lahar/Kowa/PO1NT Raci
Remember to check your sag first. Measure shock length with you on the bike in riding position standing on pedals, then measure with you off bike, this will tell you how much sag you have.
Measure from bolt hole to bolt hole, deduct the difference between measurements. Not sure what length shock you have, will probably have a 3 next to the 300-450lb written on it. This indicates 3" stroke, but you can just measure what shaft there is, and then deduct you sag from that to work out what percent sag you have. Someone else might be able to write this in a more digestible manner if you can't get what I'm saying.
I'm guessing your old Craftworks was a Horst link one(pivot below rear axle). This bike would remain pretty much active when you had the rear brake on. As mentioned, your new bike will squat into it's travel when braking, just keep this in mind, but your brain will suss it out itself probably. But try let the brakes off for ruff stuff, and use them to set the bike up for cornering.
and yes, play with bar height. I prefer higher than most seem to at the moment. Easier to push the bike, as this is what your doing. You are the bulk of the weight/momentum, dragging the bike along under you, it's easier to control and push it forward with hands higher as your forearms will be more level, and elbows higher and wider. That's how I see it anyway.
 
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Anarchist

Likes Dirt
All good advice here. DK is spot on about the testing and setting of suspension. Google suspension bracketing and you'll get the idea behind setting it up for you. The geo of new bikes is way different to older bikes, especially seating position and head angle. I ride a few older bikes still and it takes a moment to readjust. Having said that I suspect that I am faster and more comfortable on my newer bikes. Getting the little things right like bar width and brake position etc will make it feel more at home.
 
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