I didn't want to do this, but.... Howling/vibrating Zee brake on Devinci Dixon.
- Thread starter waldog
- Start date
EMF
Eats Squid
Agree
After 4 weeks of pointless LBS guess work
Including taking an angle grinder to my rear rotor they finally took my fix onboard
Got a new frame under warranty - fixed
Had the some noisey problem
After 4 weeks of pointless LBS guess work
Including taking an angle grinder to my rear rotor they finally took my fix onboard
Got a new frame under warranty - fixed
EMF
Eats Squid
Low end
Interesting to note the manufacture changed the design having an additional tube cross bracing from chain to seat stay under the brake mount
Nothing flash , alloy hard tail frame
Interesting to note the manufacture changed the design having an additional tube cross bracing from chain to seat stay under the brake mount
fatboyonabike
Captain oblivious
try a thin smear of lithium grease or anti-seize on the face where the brake adaptors or where the caliper mounts directly to the frame..usually not painted, and is alloy on alloy!..check welded mounts for cracks
Daisy
Likes Dirt
I've been there & fixed that. I believe you need to take a step backward..........
This is such a shitty problem & I agree that it makes you NOT want to ride
I had this issue with my 2011 Merida 120 about 12mths ago & started the thread: ‘Vibrating Rear Brake, Merida 120, NSW’.
From my extensive research, I agree with ^dave that it’s “a resonance issue between the frame and rotor”. To fix, you need to somehow alter the resonant frequency of the frame.
With so many changes & no positive result, I believe you need to take a backward step by going ‘back to the lab for testing’ to see if it’s actually possible to get rid of this problem.
This might sound silly & your neighbours may think you are weirder that you actually are, but this helped me a great deal (psychologically too)………..
Riding barefoot on the street put your left foot as close as possible to the middle of rear triangle BEFORE applying brake. Now apply brake to see if it vibrates. Repeat……….but place your foot in different positions on the rear triangle (including on calliper) & try different pressure with your foot. There should be some position/pressure that will cause brakes NOT to vibrate. Make sure you write this position down so you can repeat in front of other people (mechanics).
Similar to above, apply brakes to cause vibration THEN put your foot on rear triangle (different positions/pressures) to see if it stops. From memory this did not work too well for me. Step above (foot before brake) was what stopped the problem 100%.
Maybe try pouring water on calliper before braking to see if that brings any joy.
At some point during this testing it’s ok to scream joyfully as loudly as you can, once you find the ‘sweet spot’ with your foot. The hard part will be to determine a fix that doesn’t require your left bare foot to be duck taped to rear triangle for ever.
Fortunately for me, it was an easy fix (replaced standard deore brakes with SLX) & problem NEVER returned. My next step would have been to try a solid rotor.
I’m happy to discuss on the phone. PM me if you like.
Cheers
Daisy
This is such a shitty problem & I agree that it makes you NOT want to ride
I had this issue with my 2011 Merida 120 about 12mths ago & started the thread: ‘Vibrating Rear Brake, Merida 120, NSW’.
From my extensive research, I agree with ^dave that it’s “a resonance issue between the frame and rotor”. To fix, you need to somehow alter the resonant frequency of the frame.
With so many changes & no positive result, I believe you need to take a backward step by going ‘back to the lab for testing’ to see if it’s actually possible to get rid of this problem.
This might sound silly & your neighbours may think you are weirder that you actually are, but this helped me a great deal (psychologically too)………..
Riding barefoot on the street put your left foot as close as possible to the middle of rear triangle BEFORE applying brake. Now apply brake to see if it vibrates. Repeat……….but place your foot in different positions on the rear triangle (including on calliper) & try different pressure with your foot. There should be some position/pressure that will cause brakes NOT to vibrate. Make sure you write this position down so you can repeat in front of other people (mechanics).
Similar to above, apply brakes to cause vibration THEN put your foot on rear triangle (different positions/pressures) to see if it stops. From memory this did not work too well for me. Step above (foot before brake) was what stopped the problem 100%.
Maybe try pouring water on calliper before braking to see if that brings any joy.
At some point during this testing it’s ok to scream joyfully as loudly as you can, once you find the ‘sweet spot’ with your foot. The hard part will be to determine a fix that doesn’t require your left bare foot to be duck taped to rear triangle for ever.
Fortunately for me, it was an easy fix (replaced standard deore brakes with SLX) & problem NEVER returned. My next step would have been to try a solid rotor.
I’m happy to discuss on the phone. PM me if you like.
Cheers
Daisy
Last edited:
redbruce
Eats Squid
Have you tried:
- Different tension on caliper mounting bolts or disk mounting bolts (ie change coupling dynamics to alter resonant interaction between components) to determine if it is a brake/frame interaction issue
- Changing the disk size
- Changing to a different design disk
I have Avids on all our bikes and most have the usual Avid squeal/gobble at some point. Replaced the G3's on my bike with Shimano ice tech rotors and haven't had a noise since.
- Different tension on caliper mounting bolts or disk mounting bolts (ie change coupling dynamics to alter resonant interaction between components) to determine if it is a brake/frame interaction issue
- Changing the disk size
- Changing to a different design disk
I have Avids on all our bikes and most have the usual Avid squeal/gobble at some point. Replaced the G3's on my bike with Shimano ice tech rotors and haven't had a noise since.
Last edited:
SideFX
Likes Bikes and Dirt
So what was the outcome on the brake ?????
waldog
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Hey fella.@waldog , this is an oldie, but I've got a similar issue at the moment. Thought I had it fixed, but back again...
What ended up happening with this?
Nice little grave dig. Sorry to hear about your plight though, such a pain in the arse!
Sadly, I never resolved it. Sold the bike, openly acknowledging the issue, and moved on.
Anecdotally, it did seem to very much be a Devinci issue. After spending time in Whistler and chatting to a number of owners of Wilsons and Dixons, many of them had the same issue, with a fair amount of them getting frames replaced under warranty.
What bike are you having the issue on?
Flow-Rider
Burner
Just throwing pads in is not a good start.@waldog , this is an oldie, but I've got a similar issue at the moment. Thought I had it fixed, but back again...
What ended up happening with this?
wkkie
It's Not Easy Being Green
Thanks for the reply.
It's on a Kona Process 153.
When the problem first started I changed pads, changed the pad pin, rotors, brake mount, wheel, checked all the pivot bolts, and the only constant with the caliper. I had it off the bike for a while and had an XT on the rear instead for a trip to Buller and kept on it for a while after as well. I didn't have any issues with it at all and the brakes copped a flogging!
I gave the pistons a clean up with isopropyl alcohol (as well as I could, short of taking them out) and checked them (they seemed to be moving together and smoothly) and then put the brakes back on the bike. It was all good for a couple of months until the weekend when I went out to Anglesea and the same issue has popped up again.
I'm thinking of trying to get them back under warranty, I think I've pretty much tried everything else I can.