Everything DT Swiss builds is by hand so that sounds like pretty unusual reasoning.The torx drive on the top of the nipple makes its easier for machine building of wheels. Will also make it easier to build by hand, but DT swiss will not care about that. The standard slotted nipple head is like a slotted screw head. A PITA compared to a phillips, torx, allen head when you want to drive it with some sort of driver.
What street? We'll be neighbours.my Mum's place in Farrer,
A friendly overture to a fellow 'burner already circling the bowl...Take her out for a nice dinner and never call back...you monster!
Maybe, but before squorx (which used a torx head, probably just to be different), Sapim created the double square nipples which are the same sort of thing only with a square drive. To quote sapim "Developed for special truing machines" - see https://www.sapim.be/nipples/design/double-squareEverything DT Swiss builds is by hand so that sounds like pretty unusual reasoning...
Thanks T-Rex for the offer @SummitFever has kindly offered some help and tools and I'm in the process of breaking down the old wheels to get the hubs in preparation to swap with the new ones at the moment. Unfortunately with the kids and my wife traveling a fair bit I can't get out of the house much over the next few weeks but always keen for a ride at Stromlo with a fellow burner though so we should see if we can sort out a time that works.OP, I'll be down in Canberra later next week, happy to give you some pointers on wheel building, and can potentially bring my wheel building gear .
'll be staying at my Mum's place in Farrer, or we could meet at Stromlo, kill two birds with one stone and get in a ride too.
From loosing them off last night with a park tool 3 sided spoke wrench I can say that the Squorx nipples are a PITA to get off (caveat without the squorx wrench). The 3 sided spoke wrench made a huge difference over what I was using (thanks @SummitFever) but it was still 50/50 for the first 6 spokes or so whether they rounded off or not and I was using a hairdryer to heat the nipple and try and break to lock. Once the tension was off it was ok but one of the funniest things whas how inconsistent they were, one wouldn't move even with heat then the next no probs without heat so on so forth till the tension was off and they all gave way.Maybe, but before squorx (which used a torx head, probably just to be different), Sapim created the double square nipples which are the same sort of thing only with a square drive. To quote sapim "Developed for special truing machines" - see https://www.sapim.be/nipples/design/double-square
Also, even if DT Swiss builds their name brand wheels by hand, that will be a microscopic proportion of total machine built wheels.
I don't know for sure, but if I was a betting man, I'd put my money on Squorx being developed to provide an alternative to Sapim double square for machine building wheels.
And this is why pro lock is the work of the devil. Using a good lube like Lanotec or antiseize means that nipples tend to move concistently throughout the life of the wheel.From loosing them off last night with a park tool 3 sided spoke wrench I can say that the Squorx nipples are a PITA to get off (caveat without the squorx wrench). The 3 sided spoke wrench made a huge difference over what I was using (thanks @SummitFever) but it was still 50/50 for the first 6 spokes or so whether they rounded off or not and I was using a hairdryer to heat the nipple and try and break to lock. Once the tension was off it was ok but one of the funniest things whas how inconsistent they were, one wouldn't move even with heat then the next no probs without heat so on so forth till the tension was off and they all gave way.
This is exactly why you use an anti-seize grease on threads and contact points of the nipples. Don't use cheap spoke wrenches too as you will not be able to get the spokes up to correct tension without stripping a few.From loosing them off last night with a park tool 3 sided spoke wrench I can say that the Squorx nipples are a PITA to get off (caveat without the squorx wrench). The 3 sided spoke wrench made a huge difference over what I was using (thanks @SummitFever) but it was still 50/50 for the first 6 spokes or so whether they rounded off or not and I was using a hairdryer to heat the nipple and try and break to lock. Once the tension was off it was ok but one of the funniest things whas how inconsistent they were, one wouldn't move even with heat then the next no probs without heat so on so forth till the tension was off and they all gave way.
I used to do it by laying the wheel on the floor and pushing down on the rim, combined with grabbing the spokes in pairs and squeezing them to get the elbows to conform to the flange.Yeah, stress relieving!