Lists it as 601mm. Just needs to get the boost Hope hub dimensions correct.
Yes. I always round off to the nearest even-numbered increment. It's never let me down.Forgive my ignorance, I've never organised for a wheel build before.
So the spoke calculator says for the Hope hubs and DT rims, I need these spokes for the front wheel:
Left spoke length: 290.6
Right spoke length: 291.4
But the DT Champ spokes come at lengths of 290 & 292
View attachment 377364
DT Competition spokes silver
✔ DT Competition spoke One of the most versatile spokes in the DT Swiss range. The… ➤ online shopwww.hibike.com
I assume that the 290 & 292 lengths are the right ones for me. Is that right?
This guy makes a case of going longer rather than shorter:Yeah, I think that would be safe. Some people say to always round up but I think going up from 290.6 to 292 is pushing it. I’ve come very close to running out of thread by rounding up before.
Definitely go longer, I usually round up to the nearest 2mm. It's always better to be a little long than short, so that the spoke supports the nipple head properly. You can also correct with extra shims if necessary.This guy makes a case of going longer rather than shorter:
Wheel fanatyk blog
You need hubs, rims, spokes, nipples and washers for the nipples. Shims are only used at the head of the spoke if you are using a hub with a badly worn flange.OK, more noob questions from me about wheel builds:
I'm sure that there will be more questions.
- For a wheel build I need to purchase rim, hub and spokes. Do I need anything else, do I need to get shims as well?
- These are the spokes that I'm getting, how do I work out which nipples I need? https://www.dirtworksb2b.com.au/j-bend-psr-tb-2018-2.2-2.0-1.8-2.0-silver - the gauge is easy, but how do I determine which length I need? https://www.dirtworksb2b.com.au/nipples-brass~62376
- Should I just assume the gauge of these nipples, and if so, which gauge should I assume? https://www.dirtworksb2b.com.au/dt-swiss-nipples-brass-nickel-finish-15g-x-12mm-lo
+1 to all of this. Washers are a good idea one any rim without eyelets, or ENVEs. Add 1mm to the spoke calc, except where the manufacturer explicitly includes washers. Rims like Dt ex471 already take into account washers in their erd.You need hubs, rims, spokes, nipples and washers for the nipples. Shims are only used at the head of the spoke if you are using a hub with a badly worn flange.
The spokes you listed are 2.0mm or 14G at the threads. The first linked nipples are what you want. Go with standard, 14G in 12mm length with your choice of colour. The DT nipples you linked are 15G (1.8mm) and won’t fit those spokes.
Normally the rim manufacturer will specify if washers are to be used and sometimes supply them (thanks Spank) so check your rim manufacturers specs. If you’re still using DT I think they recommend washers.
https://www.dirtworksb2b.com.au/rim-nipple-washer-pw7542
I used lanolin as a lubricant and thread lock when I built my wheels. It lubricates on assembly but dries tacky to hold the nipples a bit. Not sure if it’s required but it was advised earlier in this thread and it worked well for me.
Which lanotec product are you using, the liquid or the grease?Lanotec is my nipple lubricant of choice.
This is correct. Use the washers but the nipples will be alloy and should be avoidedThank you, all.
Now that I think about it, there was a bag of nipples and crap that came with the DT rims. There's probably some washers in there that will work just fine. I recall some one suggesting that I not use those nipples (likely alloy) and get brass ones, as listed above.
Both should work fine but I use the liquid.Which lanotec product are you using, the liquid or the grease?
Yep. The ends of the spokes are stress points. Straight gauge have the same stretchiness the full length of the spoke, which leaves the stress concentrated at the ends. A thinner shaft allows more stretch, which reduces the stress at the ends, for a more resilient wheel.In theory butted spokes are meant to have a better fatigue life IIRC...