Dropper posts and workstands. What's your approach?
- Thread starter slippy
- Start date
bikeyoulongtime
Likes Dirt
For my bike? Around the stub of the seatpost and the collar because there's enough post sticking out. When my new 150mm dropper turns up (sometime), I'll probably have a touch of slack in the cable so I can pull the post up.
I never liked clamping toptubes, I avoid it if I can - but I agree with the consensus here, lightly as she goes if you do. Seatpost if possible, then seat tube, then toptube last resort (in my book, which is certainly no Zinn)
I never liked clamping toptubes, I avoid it if I can - but I agree with the consensus here, lightly as she goes if you do. Seatpost if possible, then seat tube, then toptube last resort (in my book, which is certainly no Zinn)
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
The top tube is typically thinner than you might imagine...and alloy frames are more susceptible than carbon to clamping forces.
One option is a roadie style workstand where the bike is clamped by the fork and sits on its rear wheel. Feedback Sports does this sort of thing
One option is a roadie style workstand where the bike is clamped by the fork and sits on its rear wheel. Feedback Sports does this sort of thing
moorey
call me Mia
Sounds great for running through the gears....
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
That's just nitpicking...
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Just pedal backwards.
Elbo
pesky scooter kids git off ma lawn
I generally wrap a rag around the dropper post and clamp over that, and avoiding putting big forces on the bike in the stand. However, if there's enough hose and seatpost left, I feed it back up into the frame, (sometimes undoing the remote to do this), raise the seat post enough to clamp properly over the lower half. Never clamp a frame directly; it's unprofessional, can damage paint/decals/risk crushing thin tubes which aren't meant to take that kind of force, etc. Just the way I was taught.
If it's got a dropper post, it's more than likely got a pressfit BB thesedays, so you generally don't need to reef things as much on modern MTBs to get them undone.
If it's got a dropper post, it's more than likely got a pressfit BB thesedays, so you generally don't need to reef things as much on modern MTBs to get them undone.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Works for me. If I need to apply serious grunt to the bike for extracting threaded bottom brackets, the bike stands on its wheels on the floor.
I have a Giant dropper post externally routed. I slam the seat, raise enough of the post out of the frame for the stand to grab. The "G" on the post is my marker for the height I run the post at, so it's not much hassle to do it when putting the bike on the stand as it always goes back to the same spot.
Lazmo
Old and hopeless
Yep... me too. Cept mine is all black. Use them on the car racks too.
Actually usually sits in a cradle at the BB, clamped by the fork, so the rear wheel is floating (or vice versa). Just make sure they have the right axle adapters (QR, 15mm, 12mm, 20mm if that is what you run)
Scorpion stand looks like a good alternative, as it uses the crank axle. Sure = no good for a full strip and rebuild, but I can move my post up (or remove and fit an ally one) for the serious wrenching work in my Feedback pro
DMan
shawly the least hangeriest guy on rotorburn
Yeah me too. Been doing it for years and never had a problem