Confessions from the fuckwits

Mattyp

Cows go boing
Its not that I have nfi... I have some, but there may have been some over enthusiastic cycling of the damper while bleeding the air out resulting in a fountain out the top of the bleed cup and all over everything.
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Ok folk, I have a small but worthy contender here.

As I've grumbled before that my front rotor on the 5010 seems to always give me the ting tings now matter what I do to fix it. I know it is messing with me since I can't help but get all crazy when I hear little creaking or repetitive rotational bike noises. I send myself on a search and destroy mission to find whatever it might be. @ozzybmx knows my pain too :D We have noise issues...........

By chance, I grabbed the front wheel last week while I stopped out faffign around and, hold on, what is that, about a 1-2mm bit of lateral play that might be tweaking the rotor slightly. Ah ha!. I have you now. That has to be something to do with it.

Back home, I had at the front wheel off and the hubs seemed as good as they could be. No play at all and bearings are smooth with no issues. Nothing there. Put the wheel back on and the tiny bit of play is back. The torque caps to fork dropout interface looks tight. So maybe the Maxle isn't tight enough to pull in enough of the fork legs or it just doesn't mate well with the hub or something something.

A few more ugga duggas might do it. Be fearless and get into it, what could go wrong...........

Promptly rounded off the hex head on the Maxle. Doh! Oh well, the front wheel isn't going anywhere.

Ordered a replacement Maxle and easy outed the stuck one. Easy outs are one of those things everyone needs tucked away for a rainy day before I even say 'torque wrench'.

New axle is in and play seems better but see how it goes after a few more rides and corner etc. Realigned the caliper also.
The stealth maxle alloy is super soft. I didn't try that hard to bust it. If they made a cro mo one then I'd be up for it.

Will need to keep an eye on it in case it loosens up over time and leads to a tiny bit of play. No loctite in there and I really don't think it should be used but I'm thinking about it if it becomes a problem.

20240218_145848.jpg
 

Labcanary

One potato, two potato, click
Ok folk, I have a small but worthy contender here.

As I've grumbled before that my front rotor on the 5010 seems to always give me the ting tings now matter what I do to fix it. I know it is messing with me since I can't help but get all crazy when I hear little creaking or repetitive rotational bike noises. I send myself on a search and destroy mission to find whatever it might be. @ozzybmx knows my pain too :D We have noise issues...........

By chance, I grabbed the front wheel last week while I stopped out faffign around and, hold on, what is that, about a 1-2mm bit of lateral play that might be tweaking the rotor slightly. Ah ha!. I have you now. That has to be something to do with it.

Back home, I had at the front wheel off and the hubs seemed as good as they could be. No play at all and bearings are smooth with no issues. Nothing there. Put the wheel back on and the tiny bit of play is back. The torque caps to fork dropout interface looks tight. So maybe the Maxle isn't tight enough to pull in enough of the fork legs or it just doesn't mate well with the hub or something something.

A few more ugga duggas might do it. Be fearless and get into it, what could go wrong...........

Promptly rounded off the hex head on the Maxle. Doh! Oh well, the front wheel isn't going anywhere.

Ordered a replacement Maxle and easy outed the stuck one. Easy outs are one of those things everyone needs tucked away for a rainy day before I even say 'torque wrench'.

New axle is in and play seems better but see how it goes after a few more rides and corner etc. Realigned the caliper also.
The stealth maxle alloy is super soft. I didn't try that hard to bust it. If they made a cro mo one then I'd be up for it.

Will need to keep an eye on it in case it loosens up over time and leads to a tiny bit of play. No loctite in there and I really don't think it should be used but I'm thinking about it if it becomes a problem.

View attachment 407141
Might be a crazy thought here @Mr Crudley, but have you tried putting a washer between the caliper and the adaptor you have there? Just to lift the caliper up a smidge in case the outer edge of the rotor is fouling on it. I had a caliper fouling this morning.
Washer placement like so:
1000011566.jpg

But I have 2 washers as it was catching bad enough to stop the wheel dead. Not cool with the front brake!
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Might be a crazy thought here @Mr Crudley, but have you tried putting a washer between the caliper and the adaptor you have there? Just to lift the caliper up a smidge in case the outer edge of the rotor is fouling on it. I had a caliper fouling this morning.
Thanks Ms @Labcanary I might give this a go. I did use presta valve nuts but they were a bit too high. Maybe some smaller washers might helpful.

It doesn't scrub on the top of the rotor but on the sides where I think a bit of flex is creeping in and messing it up.

Or go back to Canti's FTW!
 

Dales Cannon

lightbrain about 4pm
Staff member
Ok folk, I have a small but worthy contender here.

As I've grumbled before that my front rotor on the 5010 seems to always give me the ting tings now matter what I do to fix it. I know it is messing with me since I can't help but get all crazy when I hear little creaking or repetitive rotational bike noises. I send myself on a search and destroy mission to find whatever it might be. @ozzybmx knows my pain too :D We have noise issues...........

By chance, I grabbed the front wheel last week while I stopped out faffign around and, hold on, what is that, about a 1-2mm bit of lateral play that might be tweaking the rotor slightly. Ah ha!. I have you now. That has to be something to do with it.

Back home, I had at the front wheel off and the hubs seemed as good as they could be. No play at all and bearings are smooth with no issues. Nothing there. Put the wheel back on and the tiny bit of play is back. The torque caps to fork dropout interface looks tight. So maybe the Maxle isn't tight enough to pull in enough of the fork legs or it just doesn't mate well with the hub or something something.

A few more ugga duggas might do it. Be fearless and get into it, what could go wrong...........

Promptly rounded off the hex head on the Maxle. Doh! Oh well, the front wheel isn't going anywhere.

Ordered a replacement Maxle and easy outed the stuck one. Easy outs are one of those things everyone needs tucked away for a rainy day before I even say 'torque wrench'.

New axle is in and play seems better but see how it goes after a few more rides and corner etc. Realigned the caliper also.
The stealth maxle alloy is super soft. I didn't try that hard to bust it. If they made a cro mo one then I'd be up for it.

Will need to keep an eye on it in case it loosens up over time and leads to a tiny bit of play. No loctite in there and I really don't think it should be used but I'm thinking about it if it becomes a problem.

View attachment 407141
You can reclaim that axle. Drill and tap and loctite a grub screw in the end. I repaired a 20mm axle on #1's bike that way.
 

The Duckmeister

Has a juicy midrange
Hex heads in aluminium through-axles that need to be frequently done up and undone are another of the Bike Industry's Fucking Dumb Ideas. Give me a proper Q/R any day, either traditional 9/10mm, or hybrid T/A with locking lever any day.

PS: Not that older Rock Shox shit with the notchy collar that strips off if you look at it sideways.

PPS: that Rock Shox shit.
 
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beeb

Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
Hex heads in aluminium through-axles that need to be frequently done up and undone are another of the Bike Industry's Fucking Dumb Ideas. Give me a proper Q/R any day, either traditional 9/10mm, or hybrid T/A with locking lever any day.
Or at the very least, Torx!
 

Cardy George

Piercing rural members since 1981
Hex heads in aluminium through-axles that need to be frequently done up and undone are another of the Bike Industry's Fucking Dumb Ideas. Give me a proper Q/R any day, either traditional 9/10mm, or hybrid T/A with locking lever any day.
100% this. And then give it an easy way to adjust the tension. Just like the Maxle in my SiDs from 2018.
 

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
You can reclaim that axle. Drill and tap and loctite a grub screw in the end. I repaired a 20mm axle on #1's bike that way.
I was thinking of that too. Nice to have spare on hand but unclear if it is the source of the play and not that it matters if you *really* need one.
Do you have a photo of your axle upgrade?

Just need to make sure that the repair bolt fits something that a multitool has handy.
 
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