Climbing

[ajay]

Ill help the revival!

Weather is warming up down here and Im lookin forward to hitting mroe climbs with the girlfriend this spring/summer.

The time away from it has taken its toll on my upper body strength and fingers. Back to square one.

On a side note, anyone tried ice fall climbing?

Yeah I know the feeling, had a bit of time off too, but now climbing twice a week at the local bouldering hangout, and some lead at the you yangs on weekends, strength is coming back really quickly! Still getting insane arm pump though, so I'm avoiding the epic trads in fear of burning out midway through a multiple pitch! Eep!

 

[latheboy]

I'm a part time climber, nunners was my hang out till i built lactic.
I'm not there much but bouldering is the way forward.
I really need to get back into it and get strong.

Climbed heaps at araps and gramps, not a fan of granite although there are some good boulders in lysterfield.

 

[gixer7]

Another attempted revival!

Still hitting up lactic factory each week if anyone islooking for someone/somewhere to climb

Also, some of you more experienced or knowledgable folk may have a solution to arm pump, I get severe pump in forearms, other people have commented about the size of my forearms, but I inform them that's it not my muscle, it's just epic arm pump! It's basically like i'm getting a heap offluid trapped there, and takes about a day or so to reside... Any have remedies? Or answers, Ive never seen anything like it on other people...

This might work for you or not. When I started climbing I suffered a bit with forearms losing strength midway through the climb and getting a bit of arm pump - not as bad as you by the sounds of it. I went and got what was called "Trigger Point Therapy" done.

The guys that did it for me used acupunture needles which is different from the regular method so far as I know.

The idea behind it is to switch off some muscles that have become overly tight and are not "relaxing" so to speak. Was pretty amazing watching some of the muscles spasm away and then just soften. I went climbing two days later and the difference was amazing. Strength and endurance vastly improved and I easily hit the top of a climb I had struggled on for weeks.

Worth looking into I think.

 

[ajay]

Latheboy, you built lactic factory?! When are you there? Let me know and I'll come say hi!

That accupuncture sounds like the ticket, can you share some details? I'm in Melbourne...

 

[latheboy]

"^Once punched Jeff Kennett. "
Was that in Bar 94 richmond?

I've been meaning to climb friday nights but havn't got around to it yet.

 

[ajay]

Haha no mate, was at the old Melbourne gaol... Like 10 or 15 years ago.

I hit up lacticfactory each Tuesday night about 7.30 onwards, climb nunawadding Friday nights

 

[harmonix1234]

Like climbing?

[video=youtube;uhtgsAXmz7U]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhtgsAXmz7U&feature=player_embedded#![/video]

 

[Mattydv]

Bump!

I'm just getting into climbing, to the point where I've got to start looking at buying my own shoes and harness to save $$ hiring them every week. Can anyone offer some suggestions that are good bang for buck? I'll never be heading over to Nepal to go bouldering, but having something that will be sturdy would be definitely appreciated.


5.10 Team's look pretty appealing, and Torp7 is selling 2 Singing Rock harnesses, thoughts?

Oh, and part 1 of a series, just for good measure.
[video=youtube;th8PZ77I4Y8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=th8PZ77I4Y8[/video]

 

[LJohn]

Try them the FUCK on before buying.

Can't stress this enough. I can't name two manufacturers or even models where I wear the same shoe size. 5.10 teams have a bad rep around my local gym because they fit so few people well. Same thing with the anasazi vcs, except they're a damn great shoe if they fit you well.

So. My shoes.

Evolve Geshido SC. 43.5. Satisfactory shoe. Stretched a bit too much during break in. Uses Evolv rubber, which is a bummer. Decent rand design and the three straps make them alright around the heel. They edge well and the front half of the shoe really comes alive in steep stuff.

Scarpa Vapor V. 43. Awesome. They fit me bang on. Don't stretch enough to change the size. Edge well. Rand is a great design. I just love these shoes.

Mad Rock Flash 2. 42. They're small, flat, have a stiff sole and some decently sticky rubber. Also very cheap. Great for when their use is required.


If it's your first pair, don't spend too much. You'll most likely come to want a smaller pair if you plan to push your grade. I mostly boulder. Just to put things in perspective.

 

[0psi]

Try them the FUCK on before buying.

This! Can't buy climbing shoes over the net. I'd vote for Red Chilli spirits. They're cheapish, fit most people, crazy comfortable (well for a climbing shoe) and they perform reasonably well. I've also got a set of Evolve Predators which are great but have super thin rubber and really only necessary for when it gets super steep. I've also used Mad Rocks in the past which were okay but the rubber felt a bit odd to me.

In all fairness though if you haven't been climbing too long just get whatever is cheap and fits. Just about any climbing shoe will be better than runners and your limiting factor won't be shoes it will be your grip strength and technique. By the time your shoes start to wear out you'll probably be climbing at a level where you'll need to start worrying about the performance of your shoes.

Also keep in mind that training grip strength isn't like training other muscles, the limiting factor are the tendons and ligaments in your hands so if you over do it then you'll just injure yourself and it will take longer again. Takes ages for these little things to properly adapt.

And it's funny this thread should pop up now as I've just spent the even trawling the interwebz trying to find a vid of La Dura Dura. It was sent weeks ago (By Ondra which I didn't see coming, thought it would be the Old dog showing the young fella how it's done.) and still there is no video proof anywhere! Bet the bastards have an exclusive deal with some movie for the footage.

Also: The Holy Grail
[video=youtube_share;7ZItcQGWt9s]http://youtu.be/7ZItcQGWt9s[/video]
If you Youtube it there's another good vid of a Pommie bloke climbing it filmed from a different angle.

 

[wilddemon]

Another attempted revival!

Still hitting up lactic factory each week if anyone islooking for someone/somewhere to climb

Also, some of you more experienced or knowledgable folk may have a solution to arm pump, I get severe pump in forearms, other people have commented about the size of my forearms, but I inform them that's it not my muscle, it's just epic arm pump! It's basically like i'm getting a heap offluid trapped there, and takes about a day or so to reside... Any have remedies? Or answers, Ive never seen anything like it on other people...

Bit of a dig but ginseng daily should take care of that. Get the siberian stuff, heaps better. You won't pump but you will hit your limit and fall off, not knowing why.

 

[wilddemon]

And it's funny this thread should pop up now as I've just spent the even trawling the interwebz trying to find a vid of La Dura Dura. It was sent weeks ago (By Ondra which I didn't see coming, thought it would be the Old dog showing the young fella how it's done.) and still there is no video proof anywhere! Bet the bastards have an exclusive deal with some movie for the footage.

La Dura Dura in Spain? I don't know about the send but there is a video out with Sharma and the Czech kid (Ondra?) working it.


Edit: yeah Ondra is the Czech kid, and the vid is Reel Rock Film Tour.

 

[latheboy]

Buy cheap shoes that fit well, you will trash them anyway if you don't have good technique.

Don't go and buy the coolest looking most angry shoes you can find.

 

[0psi]

La Dura Dura in Spain? I don't know about the send but there is a video out with Sharma and the Czech kid (Ondra?) working it.


Edit: yeah Ondra is the Czech kid, and the vid is Reel Rock Film Tour.

Yeah there's the reel rock vid of them working on it last year but Ondra sent it earlier this month. And yes, Czech kid is right, he's only just turned 20! Pretty keen to see what he'll be doing in 5-10 years when he gets properly strong.

Back to shoes quickly, go for velcro. Chances are you'll be pulling them on and off quite a bit till your feet get used to them. Matty, where do you live?

 

[Mattydv]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The local indoor place sells a few different models of Scarpa, I'll try a few on next time I'm in there.

I'm in Newcastle, Opsi.

 

[wilddemon]

On the other hand if you have a high pain threshold you could order online. If they are way too small a couple of sessions in the shower might help, or wear a bit around the house with socks. I normally wear 45, my 5-10 anasazis are 42, but on taking them off after 2 hours my toes are folded in half and my foot is all twisted up. i get great traction though, that's what counts.

Edit: agree Velcro is best unless you want to look like a bearded, piton swinging, tights wearing, trail mix eating trad climber

 

[LJohn]

/\that. Especially if you're in a gym. Short routes mean tight shoes since you can take them off without having to hang halfway up a huge pitch.

Agreed with everyone regarding technique at the early levels. If you're starting the grades you will be climbing shouldn't really push the limits of shoe grip. It should be more about learning proper footwork and slowly conditioning your fingers and forearms. I can't even count the number of times I was stuck on a grade because I thought I wasn't strong enough or it was undergraded just to try something different with foot placement or body positioning and feel like a fool.

 

[0psi]

I can't even count the number of times I was stuck on a grade because I thought I wasn't strong enough or it was undergraded just to try something different with foot placement or body positioning and feel like a fool.

Word. This is why I love bouldering. So often you get stuck on things and it's a matter of working out what your body needs to do to make it stick.

If you can get chummy with a couple of good girl climbers (key word- Good) then spend a bit of time with them. Girls can't get away with using brute strength to climb so they rely on good technique. You'll learn more from climbing with girls in the early days than you will from guys.

Young Adam Ondra is a great example of technique over strength. He had good hand and forearm strength but up until a few years ago he couldn't do a single chin up. It wasn't until he started climbing 5.11-5.12 that he started doing some conditioning work as he couldn't progress any further on technique alone. Yup, he climbed a few 5.10's without being able to do a chin up. Freak.

Matty, if you happen to be down in Sydney pop into Mountain Equipment. Good staff and reasonable prices. I also happen to work next door.

 

[LJohn]

Yup. Best to mix walls and bouldering. I spend most of my time bouldering, and it is amazing seeing the number of guys who can pull up an 18/19 (with a tight rope mind you) and think they have it dialled then hit the bouldering wall and struggle pinning the easiest problems. Technique climbs walls.

And bang on with women having great technique! The female problem setter always set the trickiest, most technical climbs and problems.

Get flexible!

 

[3viltoast3r]

SNIP
I'm in Newcastle, Opsi.

Are you studying at uni? If so you should really join the mountaineering club - $2 climbing tuesday and friday afternoons..

As for shoes, you most definitely want to get a comfortable pair. Dont go super budget, but no more than $150-$200ish. You can get them resoled anyway, just try and look after them. They will stretch a little bit, but don't let anyone convince you to buy them too small. Get the right size, which fits the shape of your toes.

If you look after them:
-Don't leave in your car (the glue will melt)
-Don't walk round in them
-Don't drag your feet when climbing, smear properly
They will last you probably 2-3 years with resoling, even if they end up as gym/multipitch shoes


Don't train forearms/grip till you have been doing for a very long time. Tendon, and forearm injuries REALLY REALLY suck.


Speaking of more dangerous things, I've recently developed a trad obsession.. Anybody know where I can find DMM cams at a reasonable price?