Canyon thread :edit

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swmtbr

Likes Dirt
Hi.

New bike has this shock and I'm having problems getting it to perform. I know this shock is pretty simple but has anyone got one and has it setup well? Possibly does it need more break in time (Only 1 decent ride so far), Any more tips? Sag is set to 30% rebound set fairly slow. Lever in open mode.
 
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mitchy_

mitchy_

Llama calmer
Good lord, give it more than one ride.
My LBS said about 10 hours is the break in period.

What exactly isn't it doing well though?
 
S

swmtbr

Likes Dirt
Ha, its just not sucking up the hits, nor keeping the back wheel in traction. Front is a Pike and its soo good straight out of the box! Just feels like the rear can't keep up. I've come from an old Fox RP2 and at present it felt a lot nicer. I did read that they need a bit of break in so I'll give it hell and try break it in as fast as possible. My concern is are they a good shock? I mean, All mountain/ Aggressive Trail worthy?
 
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Jeeves

Jeeves

Likes Bikes
I take a shock pump out on the first 10 or so rides and go up or down 5 or 10 PSI from 25% sag. set sag with a back pack on, if you use one.

I set the rebound as fast as I can before it feels like its trying to buck me off.

I then aim to bottom it out in the open setting once on a big G out on a trail like Boulder at the You Yangs.

For me (68kg) with a 200x57mm DB can, I find the difference between sagging/bottoming out too much and not using all the travel is 140 PSI and 155 PSI

I end up on about 145 - 147 PSI with no internal can volume spacers. I ride mostly in the mid compression setting, opening it up for descents of locking out for longer climbs.

If you find you are running through all the travel too fast, even with 25-30% sag, try running 1 then 2 volume spacers in the positive side of the DB sleeve.

As far a 'bedding' in a Monarch, I've never noticed a difference from new to 10 or 20 hours use. BUT I do always pull the can off before the first use and clean off the heavier factory grease and replace with a good helping of Slick Honey or Slickoleum (sp)*

Hope this helps.
 
mitchy_

mitchy_

Llama calmer
swmtbr said:
Hi.

New bike has this shock and I'm having problems getting it to perform. I know this shock is pretty simple but has anyone got one and has it setup well? Possibly does it need more break in time (Only 1 decent ride so far), Any more tips? Sag is set to 30% rebound set fairly slow. Lever in open mode.
Click to expand...
swmtbr said:
Ha, its just not sucking up the hits, nor keeping the back wheel in traction. Front is a Pike and its soo good straight out of the box! Just feels like the rear can't keep up. I've come from an old Fox RP2 and at present it felt a lot nicer. I did read that they need a bit of break in so I'll give it hell and try break it in as fast as possible. My concern is are they a good shock? I mean, All mountain/ Aggressive Trail worthy?
Click to expand...
is the rebound set too slow? my old monarch plus had a pretty wide rebound range. generally speaking, you want the rebound as fast as possible without the rear wheel skipping.
if its too slow, the shock is going to pack down and get stuck in the firmer end of the stroke rather than being in the soft and squishy top stroke.

in my experience the monarch is the best match for a pike.
 
S

swmtbr

Likes Dirt
Jeeves said:
I take a shock pump out on the first 10 or so rides and go up or down 5 or 10 PSI from 25% sag. set sag with a back pack on, if you use one.

I set the rebound as fast as I can before it feels like its trying to buck me off.

I then aim to bottom it out in the open setting once on a big G out on a trail like Boulder at the You Yangs.

For me (68kg) with a 200x57mm DB can, I find the difference between sagging/bottoming out too much and not using all the travel is 140 PSI and 155 PSI

I end up on about 145 - 147 PSI with no internal can volume spacers. I ride mostly in the mid compression setting, opening it up for descents of locking out for longer climbs.

If you find you are running through all the travel too fast, even with 25-30% sag, try running 1 then 2 volume spacers in the positive side of the DB sleeve.

As far a 'bedding' in a Monarch, I've never noticed a difference from new to 10 or 20 hours use. BUT I do always pull the can off before the first use and clean off the heavier factory grease and replace with a good helping of Slick Honey or Slickoleum (sp)*

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
That defiantly helps. Exactly what I was looking for. Where is the best place to get the slick honey and spacers, Pushys?
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
swmtbr said:
Ha, its just not sucking up the hits, nor keeping the back wheel in traction. Front is a Pike and its soo good straight out of the box! Just feels like the rear can't keep up. I've come from an old Fox RP2 and at present it felt a lot nicer. I did read that they need a bit of break in so I'll give it hell and try break it in as fast as possible. My concern is are they a good shock? I mean, All mountain/ Aggressive Trail worthy?
Click to expand...
[EDIT Jeeves beat me to it]

Sounds like packing down, most likely because your rebound is way too slow, start on the fastest setting and adjust to slowest. You might need to add some rubber bands in the air chamber also for the big hits.
 
S

swmtbr

Likes Dirt
mitchy_ said:
is the rebound set too slow? my old monarch plus had a pretty wide rebound range. generally speaking, you want the rebound as fast as possible without the rear wheel skipping.
if its too slow, the shock is going to pack down and get stuck in the firmer end of the stroke rather than being in the soft and squishy top stroke.

in my experience the monarch is the best match for a pike.
Click to expand...
Yeah maybe too slow. I kinda like it that way from the old fox.Your explanation makes perfect sense I'll play around with it.
 
S

swmtbr

Likes Dirt
Flow-Rider said:
[EDIT Jeeves beat me to it]

Sounds like packing down, most likely because your rebound is way too slow, start on the fastest setting and adjust to slowest. You might need to add some rubber bands in the air chamber also for the big hits.
Click to expand...
thanks guys, I now know where I most likely have fucked up. love this forum
 
Jeeves

Jeeves

Likes Bikes
swmtbr said:
That defiantly helps. Exactly what I was looking for. Where is the best place to get the slick honey and spacers, Pushys?
Click to expand...
Yes Pushy's for Slick Honey but I've seen it cheaper. and any good bike store will be able to order some Monarch bottomless rings.
 
Jeeves

Jeeves

Likes Bikes
AND after dialling in the air pressure and bottomless rings, you can change the piston shim stacks if you really want to fine tune it, but most people get by fine with the MM stock tune.
 
E

empire

Likes Bikes
Cyclinic.com.au has the monarch bottom less rings available if you need them quickly. I ordered them on Friday and they arrived on Monday from qld to Perth which was impressive
 
S

swmtbr

Likes Dirt
Righto Lads
Sped the rebound up 3 clicks and now this shock is doing the job. It's a bit more bouncy now when pedalling hard but the lever sorts that out. All this time on my old bike I've been running the damping too slow!
Next question is who has tips to stop the scraping on the Guide R 200mm front brake. I have bed them in. Reset the Pistons, tried adjusting the caliper position with the lever pulled, even tried gingerly bending the rotor but still scraping! Annoying. On inspection 1 of the four Pistons can't be reset all the way back.
 
Flow-Rider

Flow-Rider

Burner
swmtbr said:
Righto Lads
Sped the rebound up 3 clicks and now this shock is doing the job. It's a bit more bouncy now when pedalling hard but the lever sorts that out. All this time on my old bike I've been running the damping too slow!
Next question is who has tips to stop the scraping on the Guide R 200mm front brake. I have bed them in. Reset the Pistons, tried adjusting the caliper position with the lever pulled, even tried gingerly bending the rotor but still scraping! Annoying. On inspection 1 of the four Pistons can't be reset all the way back.
Click to expand...
Try and let some of the brake fluid out when you reset the pistons but be careful you don't let air enter into the system, keep the bleed point of the levers to the highest point.
 
Nambra

Nambra

Definitely should have gone to specsavers
Flow-Rider said:
Try and let some of the brake fluid out when you reset the pistons but be careful you don't let air enter into the system, keep the bleed point of the levers to the highest point.
Click to expand...
Serious question F-R, would just one piston stay out if there was too much fluid in the system, or is this maybe a case of sticky piston or piston seal?

Perhaps swmtbr could remove the respective wheel and brake pads, put a ~10mm block between the two opposing pistons that are moving ok (to keep them apart), and put a thinner ~3mm block between the sticky piston and its opposite. Then cycle the brakes a few times to see if the stuck piston can be loosened up a bit. Pull the brake lever to extend the single pair of pistons, release brake lever, remove 3mm block and gently push pistons back out with a flat bladed screwdriver or tyre lever, reinsert 3mm block and repeat a few times.

Just a suggestion, but a simple thing to try before letting out some brake fluid and potentially not having enough fluid left in the brake!

Edit: Question for swmtbr, does the rotor rub continuously on the brake pad, or intermittently? A slight wobble is likely to be more pronounced with a large rotor. Also double check your rotor bolts are tight...
 
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