loc81
Likes Dirt
Yep it's NW
1x10 without a chainguide
- Thread starter Alo661
- Start date
Wombatone
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Ahh good Blackspire it is , you will clearly see the difference between wide and the narrow teeth on the ring, now make sure you got the chain on the correct wide/narrow slots.
I got one of these Blackspire NW and had no problems at all, if it still comes off,having the chain on the correct slots/teeth you might need a chainguide as below.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/blackspire-trailx-1x-chainguide/rp-prod112083
wombat
Lives in a hole
Getting the tooth alignment wrong is pretty damn obvious though, its not like it kinda fits, its worse than having a 3/32 chain on a 1/8 sprocket.
B Rabbit
Likes Bikes and Dirt
Just did a 1 X 10 conversion on a Large 2014 Camber Carbon, switched out the standard cranks (SRAM S-1250) and put in a set of s-works while I was at it. Got a Wolftooth direct mount s-works specific ring 32th,( http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/products/s-works-lightning-chainrings ). Bike shop did the work for me, starting weight was 13.2kg, weight now 12.6kg. Pretty good saving! Haven't even had of a ride of it yet, but have a 3hr race this weekend so will report back. Not running a chain guide.
Did it mostly for the simplicity of the riding, used to have a single speed and really liked the focus it gave you, I'm hoping removing the front ring will reclaim a little of that feeling. Weight saving was pretty good bang for buck too.
I will post some pics soon.
Ben
Did it mostly for the simplicity of the riding, used to have a single speed and really liked the focus it gave you, I'm hoping removing the front ring will reclaim a little of that feeling. Weight saving was pretty good bang for buck too.
I will post some pics soon.
Ben
treble
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Oh ok, yeah could be. I assumed it was short because the op said his was mid, and it's definitely longer than mine. Came spec'd on a complete bike I bought so I don't know for sure.
To the OP, did you see if you could manually push the derailleur any closer to the bottom bracket? Or is it fully extended in the 42 tooth?
silentbutdeadly
has some good things to say
IMO....chain is too long and your B-screw is too far out. But the chainline is perfect and there is no need to swap the chainring unless it is worn out.3 pics here for all y'all- high gear, low gear and a chain line view from 5th gear. See what you think.
My only other comment is that the dérailleur strikes me as being too long in the cage but then I'm not in the habit of running wide range cassettes either...
loc81
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Not sure if you have dealt with the SRAM stuff but you can push the cage waaay forward and toggle a lock out to keep it there, so you can remove your back wheel.
I'd be happy to remove a link or maybe 2 to try resolving the issue but what are to consequences of a chain that is too short?
Wombatone
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Bad ,bad ,expensive bad , do not run your chain to short if you value your derailleur.
treble
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Yeah mines an x9 as well (as pictured earlier) I'm familiar with the lockout, it's very handy. What I'm asking though is if your derailleur is close to fully extended when it is in the 42 tooth gear, probably to the point where you could push the lock in, because it should be.
As far as having a short chain: it's very bad on a dual suspension bike; if it's in your biggest rear gear and you compress the suspension the chain will often 'shrink' and pull the derailleur further than it's designed to. So when measuring the chain on a dually you should compress the suspension, then allow the derailleur to near fully extend in order to find your maximum required chain length. On a hard tail though, this isn't an issue as you have no rear suspension to alter the chain length. So you are fine to run it very close to full extension in your biggest rear gear. I leave just a little bit of play, incase the frame flexes or something over bigger hits. But really on a hardtail, if the chain is too short all your going to do is be unable to shift into the bigger gears.
Ezkaton
Eats Squid
Implying it's possible to put the chain on the wrong teeth on a NW ring?
loc81
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Firstly, I appreciate all the replies here!
I'll post another pic or 2 this afternoon with the cage at full limit (beyond that locking mechanism) and just at that picking point.
Wombatone
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Yes it is possible,wrong slotting the chain on the ring and your nice NW becomes more like a normal chainring or worse.Implying it's possible to put the chain on the wrong teeth on a NW ring?
But ,as Wombat pointed out, this might be obvious to some but not to all.
Correction from my side, Ezakton and Wombat are quite correct it is quite hard if not impossible to put on the chain in the way I thought possible.
It is probably all the night riding latley ,the beer afterwards or a combination of both that led me to believe that the impossible is possible.
I stand corrected, thanks to Wombat and Ezakton I will never have to check the slotting of my chain ever again.
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treble
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Yeah no prob, Just re-read my previous post and it isnt very clear (its hard to explain things over the net)
Im assuming your cassette is now 11-42. That is a very wide ratio. As such, you need a much longer chain when you are in the 42 tooth than you do when you are in the 11 tooth. This means your chain will be quite alot too long when in the smaller rear gears (11 tooth, ect), which is generally the gears you use when its bumpy-est.
Now, the derailler will take up the slack in the chain, but has a limited amount of travel. You will need to have it set up so that when you are in the 42 tooth gear, the rear derailleur will be very close to its full upper limit (just before the point where you can lock it out). If its not set up this way, when you are in the smaller gears the derailler will sit on its lower limit and wont be taking up any chain slack. This causes the chain to be loose, and it will drop off.
On a dual suspension bike, you need to make an allowance for rear suspension travel. but yours is a hardatail and so its not an issue in this case.
What im trying to say is; if, like it sounds from your above post, there is still a significant amount of travel in your derailleur before it reaches its upper limit (while in the 42 tooth) then your chain its too long and needs to be shortened.
Hope thats a bit clearer!
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loc81
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All this info I've been partially aware of in the past, but I've never been keen to test the friendship with my chain!
I just got home- here's the 411.
I've found that I can lose 2 links to get me, in the 42t cog, to the cage lock-out device. From all you lot have said this is a good reference point so I've just removed those 2 links.
FYI I could lose another 3 links to reach the forward limit of the derailleur, leaving it at almost "3 o'clock".
I'm heading out soon to Ourimbah and have my chain guide set up so it's easily removable so I'll ditch it, give it a flogging and report back!
Does it peel off whilst you have the power on, or just fall off over bumps when you are not pedalling ? If the former, frame flex could play a part maybe.
Not sure if this was answered further on but it can be adjusted. The plastic cap inside the "roller bearing clutch" part can be pried out, and while it looks like you need a massive torx wrench to adjust it, you can also use an 8mm hex key. Careful when adjusting it as a small turn can yield a big change, and you can have too much!
When I played with mine I found it had slipped/loosened quite a way. I had a lot of trouble with dropped chains when I initially set up my 1x10, but I found it was both the clutch tension and the B adjust were well out. I've now tightened it so that it gives a small knock when the suspension compresses and touch wood haven't had a dropped chain since. Good luck!
loc81
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Bike is in the shop today as I've had a few derailleur cage issues after a run in with a stick last week. Shifting has been average and back spinning in the bottom half of cassette sometimes sees the chain becoming slack from the jockey wheels and cage not behaving. All pieces of this puzzle that need to be sorted!
swaz
Likes Bikes and Dirt
This is my reservation about the whole 1x10 set up with a 36 as the biggest gear. I don't often find myself climbing hills that I can't spin up at the moment in my 32x36 and I don't really want the hassle of changing to a 2x set up when I am going trail riding or a whole day epic.