Why do I break chains ...

[HamishS]

... like there is no tomorrow?

Any advice would be great.

Some info -

- Im 95kgs, not a particularly 'hard' rider
- snap most chains at the bottom of a small rise / hill (I cant really remember though dont think I am in the process of chaining gears) ... more so getting out of the saddle
- I have just replaced the entire drive train (including chain) which I snapped again today (after its second ride), can fix though its only going to happen again
- Last chain I had for about 5mths and snapped 4-5 times.

Is there something that is common sense that I should or shouldn't be doing, I am thinking its my riding style more than anything?

I am running a Shimano XT chain, should I try another brand / model?

I am getting extremely efficient as putting in quick links which is not what I am enjoying

Cheers

 

[leftieant]

How are you joining them, and where are they breaking? I've never broken a chain, ever, and I'm your weight and not a gentle rider either. I always run XT chains so doubt that is your issue. I mix this with the SRAM powerlinks from the get do, I don't bother with the Shimano pin.

Maybe consider where you are changing gear, if you're changing under load maybe that is the issue. I try and change prior to the climb / pinch - if you've got to do it on the climb you've left it too late.

 

[HamishS]

Cheers Leftiant ... I keep on coming back to it must be something that I am doing.

I had 4 x SRAM powerlinks in the last chain (before I replaced the drive train) as I wanted to get ever inch out of it before replacing ... and think I definitely did.

Obviously will be concentrating alot moving forward about not changing on the climb, rather than before though I am normally pretty good at this ...

Does anyone have any comments on KMC chains? Had heard they may hold up a little better? That could be complete rubbish though would be good to hear anyone's thoughts.

 

[leftieant]

If you're looking for strength maybe look at a connex wipperman chain - far greater static breaking force than others. Be prepared to pay $$$ though.

KMC are ok but I don't think offer any superior strength over XT.

 

[Landon]

Chain Snap

It's definitely due to how and when you change gears. You should never attempt to shift under load. If you don't snap your chain straight away, you'll probably just twist a link which may cause the chain to skip or snap at a later time. Shifting gears properly with a derailleur system is a skill all in itself.

If you've come to a slight hill and you're one gear too high, give her some extra gas and then quickly shift down a cog while easing up on the power momentarily. Major down shifting on a hill means you haven't thought / looked ahead. Combining a double down shift while standing on the pedals at the bottom of a hill is a guaranteed recipe for a snapped chain.

 

[Moggio]

Also if you are using gear ratios like big ring front and big at back or granny at front, smallest ar back, the angle weakens the chain over time and makes it more likely to snap. Correct gear ratios extends the chain life.

 

[Jackstack]

What Moggio said, check your chain lines, i'm 90kg and the only time I've snapped a chain is accidental shifting under load, i.e chain has jumped and when I've put the power down, snappo! work on the gear changing before spending coin on more expensive chains.

 

[HamishS]

Cheers all, will take more note of time of change and from what ratio and see where I end up.

 

[ScooterXC]

I've snaped 2 SRAM hollow pin chains.
I ran them for way too long and used to have a really hard shifting style.
Once I got XO RD and the 'Cross-step' chains i've never had a problem.
I've also half snapped a Yumeya chain so I'm starting to wonder if it's the harshness of the XTR RD..?

 

[C Dunlop]

-

- Im 95kgs

- Last chain I had for about 5mths

I've never seen a skinny rider break a chain. That said, in theory all chains have a shear point far greater than any human is able to produce. I would say it is to do with incorrect installation. Are you installing it yourself? Are you absolutely positive it is cut to the right length?

I replace road chains every ~1200km. MTB ones more than that. Chains are cheap, chainrings are not.

 

[BigSplashBear]

SS is your solution....

Don't muck around. Go Singlespeed and buy a heavy duty chain.
Shifting seems to be the issue. Eliminate that and you'll have no worries.

Of course, reading the terrain and shifting early is another option.
KMC chains. I've been running SRAM hollow-pin chains for years. On KMC 9spd SL. No going back.
Last time I snapped a chain? Before I learned to read the terrain and shift earlier - maybe four years ago.

'Bout the same weight as you.

Bear - out

 

[steve24]

I have also been having a bad run. I am around 82kg and during the world solos broke a new XTR chain in 2 places at once.....stalled riding over a large rock in the night, stood to power over- snap
3rd chain break in a year...
crossed chain is not an issue, i run 2x9....

 

[HamishS]

Don't muck around. Go Singlespeed

HA I struggle with the shite load of gears that I have now, let alone just having the one.

 

[Newton]

Hamish, I'm 94 kgs and ride hills reasonably hard, I'v never had the pleasure of breaking a chain, I've used KMC X9-93's, but I also clean & rotate my chains every 3-4 weeks, or after a "dirty" ride. I have 3 KMC's that I clean in petrol and relube, always clean your chains, grit and dust in the pins, relubing dirty chains = shortened life. You'll be suprised how much grit is left in the bottom of the container when you wash a chain. GRIT+OIL=GRINDING PASTE. Chains don't stretch, they wear .... ;-)

The other thing to try is when you go to shift put in one to two fast pedals, then back off slightly with a light pedal & shift down at the same time.

 

[ScooterXC]

I've never seen a skinny rider break a chain.

Chains are cheap, chainrings are not.

Weeeellll... i'm 63kg and i've broken 3
and yeah.. tell me about it.. Specialized ring sets are stupidly expensive.. but, lightweight and shift amazingly

 

[Grover]

KMC make all Shimano chains except Dura Ace and XTR so there shouldn't be much difference between the two. You'll find people willing to bet their life on one or the other depending on what unlucky experiences they've had with either. Shimano did recently (~6 months ago) have a batch of chains that spent a bit too long in the manufacturing process and came out a little brittle. Perhaps you got one of them?

Don't muck around. Go Singlespeed and buy a heavy duty chain.

This is somewhat of a misconception. You'll find the breaking strength of high end 8/9/10 speed chains is higher than the best single speed chains...and yeah they cost a heap more!

crossed chain is not an issue, i run 2x9....

Another misconception. It's true that when in the big ring the chainline is better on a double than a triple. However, 2x9 means you spend most time in the big ring and high up on the cassette which is still a pretty crooked chainline. Just not as crooked as on a triple. Unless you're an absolute beast then on a triple you spend most time in the middle ring and the middle or low end of the cassette which places less strain on the chain. The benefit of 2x9 is being able to use all the cassette on the big ring and decreasing the amount of shifting required. It does not decrease strain on the chain though.

The other thing to try is when you go to shift put in one to two fast pedals, then back off slightly with a light pedal & shift down at the same time.

That's the key along with keeping the chain clean and lubed. Remember, wipe clean, lube and work into the rollers, wipe dry. Don't omit the wipe dry step or you'll end up with that lube/grit grinding paste.

Personally I bet my life on the SRAM PC991 Cross Step. I've managed to snap XTR, KMC X9sl and the non cross step SRAM PC991 before I started running them. I have got my maintenance/lubing technique and shifting technique more under control now though and I think that's the key.

 

[C Dunlop]

To throw another tuff-as-nails chain suggestion in: Campy Record 9v. Still around a few bike shops and sometimes online.

I got a box of 20 for $300 on fleabay. Seem to be lasting a lot longer than the SRAM and Shimano Ultegra 9v chains that I was using before. Back in the day when 10-speed stuff was the go, quite a number of roadies would use campy 10v chains on shimano drivetrains, which says something at least.

 

[Grover]

I'll second that thought. Have always used Campy 10 speed chains on the roadie whether it be Campy, SRAM or Shimano group. Now that I'm on 10 speed on the mtb it's a Campy chain there as well. They don't tend to elongate like other brands. They must use harder pins? I find they wear out by showing excessive side to side slop rather than 'stretching'. Oh, and I haven't broken one.

 

[frensham]

...I have just replaced the entire drive train (including chain) which I snapped again today (after its second ride)
Cheers

Assuming you joined the chain with the Shimano pin, if you break a chain on it's second ride, then you must have joined the chain incorrectly. If you used a SRAM powerlink then your riding style needs a good look at.......

 

[HamishS]

Frensham, I have come to the conclusion that my riding style sucks and I gotta fix it soon as its costing me a fortune in chains + links ...

The new chain was connected via a powerlink!