Which road bike??

[dain2772]

I have also submitted this on cyclingforums.com, but am not getting a great response.... hope someone here has some ideas.

Firstly a little bit about myself. I am 25, and my current cycling activities revolve around mountain biking. I have a nice little iron horse full suspension bike which I enjoy riding off road. I am now in the market for a road bike to start building up my fitness, and to just ride more in general. I don't always have time to get to the trails for a ride, and like the idea of getting out on the road.

I am just under 6 foot, 80kg and hopefully soon 75kg. I intend to do 2-3 rides on the road bike a week, probably 1 ride of about 40-80km and the others 20-30km. I also intend on doing rides like Loop-the-lake (80km) and the sydney to the gong ride.

So hopefully the above can give everyone an idea of my intentions for the bike.

My research so far has given me a few options in terms of the bikes to get, which I will go through. All are full alloy frames, with carbon forks.

Scott Speedster S40 - tiagra all through. weight 9.2kg

Avanti Veloce - 105 rear derailleur, tiagra other. 9.1kg

BH bikes R1 - mostly 105, although no name brakes. I was told this bike was about 7.5kg in total.

Trek 1200 - 105 rear derailleur, tiagra otherwise weight I think is around 10kg.

Argon 18 Plutonium - 105 all through including brakes and wheelset - this bike would be above the $1500 pricing above by $100-250. This bike is also about 7.5kg.

I have also considered the Giant OCR2, but aren't too keen on it.

So, any ideas on what would be good/better/no good for me? It is all a little confusing as to whether it is better to pay for more 105 gear. Does weight matter a lot, or not much?

I look forward to hearing people's opinions on this, and I thank you all in advance.

 

[Mr Pants]

Go for the best wheelset, that's where the most perfomance can be gained/lost. Mechs etc can be upgraded later.

 

[dain2772]

so wheelset weight and/or strength?

does overall weight make as much difference?

 

[Rider]

Have you had a look at the Felt range? They have alloy frames with carbon forks and seat stays and are pretty well priced.

 

[dain2772]

Have you had a look at the Felt range? They have alloy frames with carbon forks and seat stays and are pretty well priced.

I just had a quick look on the website, and sent an email trying to find a location in Sydney (unless anyone knows of any?)

I was looking at the F80, although it has a triple chainring, which I have been told is better not to have. Any thoughts?

 

[rex2]

I just had a quick look on the website, and sent an email trying to find a location in Sydney (unless anyone knows of any?)

I was looking at the F80, although it has a triple chainring, which I have been told is better not to have. Any thoughts?

I think you will find that the Bike Bug at North Sydney will stock the BH, Argon 18 and the Felt. Having just moved over to the north side from down south I have found them the best and most helful of all the shops in your area when it comes to the road stuff (it also helps they are good guys). They should be able to give you the pros and cons of each model on the spot.

 

[nrs1mounty]

you mentioned that you are not keen on the OCR 2. I have one and use it as my commuter and for weekend rides when i cant get out on the mountain bike. I do approx 250km per week on it, have had it for approx 1yr so far and going great. Only thing you need to do is change the tyres as the original ones are crap. I run Continental gatorskins which i find roll good and dont puncture easily.
Good bike for commuting and training rides. Dont think its upto the spec of race bikes though but find it good for my needs. Very happy with it and good value to, i got it for approx $1400 with new shows and a new camelbak and wireless computer. Try out whatever you can though.

 

[digger]

by your own admission, you've got a couple of kg's to do away with from the waistline so i wouldn't be too worried about a kg or 2 on the bike. The other guys are spot on, if you're on a budget, pick the one with the better wheelset. reducing rotating weight is more important than reducing dead weight good luck!!
a triple chainring will add a bit of weight and probably means you'll be running a medium-long cage rear mech so no big deal. if you live in a really hilly area it can't hurt having it.

 

[nrs1mounty]

I just had a quick look on the website, and sent an email trying to find a location in Sydney (unless anyone knows of any?)

I was looking at the F80, although it has a triple chainring, which I have been told is better not to have. Any thoughts?

my ocr 2 has triple chainring, dot see why its better or worse, i hardly ever use the bottom cog and find the top one is only needed for above 45km/h, so most of the time is spent on the middle ring. I use the top ring when i want to push/work harder and only use the bottom ring for extreme uphills.

 

[dain2772]

my ocr 2 has triple chainring, dot see why its better or worse, i hardly ever use the bottom cog and find the top one is only needed for above 45km/h, so most of the time is spent on the middle ring. I use the top ring when i want to push/work harder and only use the bottom ring for extreme uphills.

I have been told that it rubs on the derailleur more and makes more noise. also just more to go wrong I guess, although it wouldn't really be much more.

My brother has one on his OCR3, and says that he never uses it.

 

[Mr Pants]

Triples are a bit of a waste of time unless you're very unfit or live in the Snowy's. If the bike only comes with a triple get the shop to take off the granny ring and put in a narrower BB if possible.

Compact double cranksets are the go IMO. By chainging cassette or by having a spare rear wheel you can covert the bike from flat terrain/racer boy gearing (50 x 11 top gear) in to a hill climbing beast (34 x 27 bottom gear)

 

[nrs1mounty]

I have been told that it rubs on the derailleur more and makes more noise. also just more to go wrong I guess, although it wouldn't really be much more.

My brother has one on his OCR3, and says that he never uses it.

no noise on mine, smooth as in every single gear. If adjusted properly it will be fine, i am the same as your brother though, bottom cog is hardly used. COmes in handy for a really, really steep hill after long ride though. With or without, doesnt matter too much i think. Friend of mine has an OCR 1 with the double chainring and we keep up with each other quite easily.

Good luck, there is heaps to choose from

 

[n plus one]

I agree about compact cranksets, unless you see some racing in your future in which case you may be undergeared (I never had any plans to race when I got my roadie either but you never knowyou may come to love lycra ). Personally I would be inclined towards as much 105 as you can afford as I have found it to be very long lasting, but I wouldn't be overly concerned if its 10 speed or not, as long as this is reflected in the bikes pricing. While its true that weight savings in the wheels are the most important its worth remembering that if you do get a bit keen (eg a bit of local racing) you will probably want good wheels and your current ones will be trainers only. Regardless, I am firm beleiver in traditionally spoked wheels for general road riding as fancy spoked designs are harder to true. I can't really comment on the individual bikes listed except to say I have had a very good run with my Avanti, they are durable bikes with a pretty good dealer network if not necessarily the best spec for the money.

 

[RacelineBoy]

i believe trek have the best range of road bikes and from my experence they ride very well.

 

[paulie]

I would recommend getting the best groupset for the money. There is a reasonable difference between tiagra and 105. In the price range you are looking at all the wheelsets are all going to be pretty ordinary but at the same time all pretty similar. If you can get shimano hubs at your price level that would be great. Overall bike weight is another thing but really I would rather ride a little bit heavier 105 roadie than a lighter Tiagra roadie.

 

[dain2772]

And when you say to get 105, do you mean all the way through, or just rear derailleur?

Some people say it matters what is on all parts of the bike, and others just go by the rear derailleur....

And what difference is there in the brakes between 105 brakes and a more standard brand?

 

[paulie]

If anything is 105 it should be the shifters and the rear der minimum. There are some reasonable differences in the performance of better shifters.

Of course the other option is to look at getting a relativly new second hand 9sp Ultegra bike for the same type of money as a New 105 bike. Might take a little hunting but it can be done.

 

[liamo]

BH bikes R1 - mostly 105, although no name brakes. I was told this bike was about 7.5kg in total.

Trek 1200 - 105 rear derailleur, tiagra otherwise weight I think is around 10kg.

At the price range you're looking at I'd be surprised if you found more than a few hundred grams, 1kg max, difference between bikes. There wouldn't be 2.5kg between them. Take the Trek as the more realistic claim (my carbon, durace thing is ~7.5kg)

My recommendation would be to look for good quality wheels and frame and then worry about the groupset if they seem equal.

Liam

 

[Alec McJo]

Scott Speedster S40 - tiagra all through. weight 9.2kg

I have just purchased a Scott Speedster S50, which is the model down from the S40. I am very happy with it so far, it rides very nicely. And I was in your situation of getting a bike for fitness when already riding a dual suspension bike...

Would have got the S40 but couldn't afford it, but I don't think it matters anyway. I am very pleased with my S50 so you'd find you'd be very pleased with your S40.

Just make sure you get PROPERLY sized, and not dodge sized. E.G. I went to one bike shop looking at Giants, the guy looks at me and goes "yeah he'd be a medium". Went to the next with the Scotts, and went through about half an hour of measurements to get a PROPER sizing, bike is very comfortable to ride.

 

[paulie]

What would you rather be riding in 6months time? A bike with fractionally lighter wheels (acceleration/climbing benefit) or a bike that shifts reliably after a bit of wear and tear. If it were my balls on the line I would be looking at good shifting/brakes.

After a decent amount of use the diff between the groupsets really begins to stand out. In a shop when it is all new the differences are no where near as obvious.

The only thing I would pay more for in the upto 1500 price range would be shimano hubs. Pretend hubs tend to be just that.