Upgrading

[WILLY]

I am soon to be purchasing a brand new GT I-drive 1.0
I've test ridden it and it is a great all mountain bike that is well capable of jumps and drops aswell as xc singletrack and fireroads.
It's also really good value for the amount of bike you get, fox rear suspension, hydro brakes, RS forks, Syncros wheels etc.

However, although all these parts are proven and tough, they tend to be on the weighty side.
The complete bike weighs at 30 lbs, which is pretty good, but i would love to lighten her up a bit, since im a fairly small guy, and i like my long xc rides aswell.

So as i progress through my ownership of the bike (hopefully a few years) i was thinking about upgrading different parts of the bike that wouldnt change strength a lot but would make a difference in weight.

Firstly, i would change the tyres from the Tioga XCs to Python gold elites, since this is an easy swap for my bike store. I am also getting some of that stans no tubes which will take off 500gm of weight from the wheels.

I would also change the cassette from the standard SRAM to maybe an XT or XTR cassette, changing the saddle and seatpost from SDG/ GT to Ritchey Pro post and WCS saddle, the handlebar from Syncros to Ritchey WCS and get Lock on grips as well.

Eventually i would change over the fork to maybe a fox float which would save a fair bit of weight and add more adjustment.
The Bottom bracket and crankset is standard Truvativ ISIS drive with a firex crank, so maybe i would go to that Giga pipe titanium BB with the stylo team crank.
I really like those egg beater pedals, so i may get a hold of them too.

I suppose it will be forever before i get all this stuff, probably never.
But from what you can see, would all these upgrades be justifiable?
Do you have any other suggestions as to lightening up a bike without sacrificing too much strength?

Cheers guys

 

[Gonzo]

You should really upgrade, wheels/cranks/tyres first. You'll notice the drop in weight more.

I just took my new eggbeaters for thier first ride yesterday and they are very cool. Definitly getr some.

 

[junior]

get a very nice pair of wheels and tyres. u will notice the biggest difference in them

 

[Cúl-Báire]

Mmmm Go a new set of wheels and tyers.... I recon a Mavic XC717 laced to Chris King hubs with something like DT revo spokes would be a goodden... Check out www.oddsandendos.com and www.mtnhighcyclery.com ask them about prices, they are pretty good a lower rotational weight will make so much difference

Cranks and BB is another grerat place to save some weight, also piss the seat off, and get an offering from Selle Itelia or something like that, they have a really wide range, adn even their minumilist saddels are comfortable (SLR Trans-AM) and way lighter than the stocky.

I wnat to see pictures too

 

[Giant_Fridge]

i have a gt i-drive 6, 2000 model, its now a single speed 4x racer! they have really strong frames, just watch the dodgy componets!

 

[WILLY]

Yeah, i think tyres(tubeless), cranks, pedals and seat will go first.
Im not sure about the wheels though, they are very tough and a are pretty light (Syncros Big Box)
I know that there is a big potential to lose weight on the wheels, but this bike has a real appetite for downhill (4-4.5 inch travel f/r) , and im not sure if i want to go for some lightweight rims that may flex easily.

I used to have Bontrager Race hoops, which were strong enough.
With the dual suspension design though, are wheels less likely to flex than on a hardtail?
I was curious about the DT Swiss wheels that wheelcraft make, or the ritchey sets, does anyone have any suggestions?

And also, would i be able to get wheelcraft to rebuild my wheels since i am not familiar with building wheels myself and dont know others who do?
The stock wheels are actually built with brass nipples and standard 14 gauge spokes on deore disc hubs.
What if i got some Onyx hubs with revolution spokes and prolock nipples built with the syncros rims?
Thanks dudes

 

[Cúl-Báire]

That would be massively expencive (wheel rebuild), you be better off to get new "lighter" rims as well... Wheels on a dualie wont take as much of a beating, like on a hardtail... If madde properly light wheels will be just as strong... The Wheelcraft DT Swiss build looks really good, even perfect for your appllication.

 

[WILLY]

OK,
so a lighter wheelset is the way to go, i think the DT Swiss Pro build would be sufficient for me.

I like the new XT cranks and BB, and i think i will get an XT cassette, aswell as some Egg beater pedals, all up thats about $700 from phantom cycles, which is pretty good i reckon, better than going through the hassle of tax and custom costs of overseas buying.

I will be able to get the tyres from my shop, and i think i will change the saddle/seat pretty much as soon as i get the bike.

What would be a good fork upgrade? Can Fox Floats be bought in the 100mm version aftermarket? Otherwise, i like the RS Duke SL's and Race's, are there any other 100mm forks that are worth looking at? Marzocchi Marathons?

So, out of new wheels, new fork, cranks+BB, pedals, cassette and handlebar, what would be a general sort of order to upgrade?

 

[Cúl-Báire]

Fox'es can be brought 100RCL aftermarket, come in the float model... I am not sure if they have been brought to Australia though, as I have never seen the FLOAT advertised, only the Talas :?

With the dukes you could consider adding the Pure Damper to the forks (making it pretty much a Duke Race), with that you'd get compresion ajustment/lockout and I think all you will need is the Damper unit (plus ajuster knob), and Pure tube; I am pretty sure the rebound unit is the same on all the Duke models. I am not sure how expencive it is though, but shouldn't be over 100bux... Or you could just upgrade staraight away to an SL or something when you get the bike

Upgrade first: ANything that you prefer comfort wise, then probably go for the spinning things...

 

[Mommers]

IMO, getting the XTR cassette is a waste of money, just get a XT or SRAM 9.0 which are around half the price of XTR, with only a slight weight disadvantage.

XTR is only for those who race or have too much money to spend.

 

[WILLY]

For the moment, i will leave on the big bow rims, i dont think they're that heavy, maybe in a year some crossmax may replace them.......

I would like to upgrade the fork to a lighter unit, such as a duke race, but i wasnt sure if you can get the race model in 100mm?
Otherwise, the SL is a pretty good buy, and like you said Culbaire, a few mods would make it a race anyway.

So, out of the shop, i will have the tyres changed to pythons, the saddle and seat post changed to a ritchey pair- do you reckon Pro or WCS?

And around July, i will have some new XT cranks, BB, cassette and egg beaters for the drivetrain.

Cant Wait!!!!!!

 

[Rik]

I hear someone needs advice from a weight weenie eh?
Firstly, don't go throwing too much money at the bike, with all your planned purchases you'd be better off selling your bike and buying one with a lighter frame.

Be smart about component choice, weigh your current ones, and pick new ones with best $ per gram saved ratio. Lighter tyres and wheels would be the best start, then maybe cranks and little things, but you don't want to go buying a new cassette just for the sake of it, because these things wear out over time. You're best to save buying consumable parts until they NEED to be replaced.

Also, how heavy is the frame? Because there is only so much weight you can save on components before the frame holds you back.

 

[WILLY]

Im not sure how much the frame weighs, probably around 6 lbs or something, i dont think its really a xc race bike, and i like it for its durablility and ability to take hits.

Complete bike is around 30 lbs, and tubeless wheels will take off 500grams, the new seatpost and saddle will take off another 300 grams.
Not heaps, but they are just easy and fairly low cost things i can do when i get the bike.
When i have more experience on it i will know what to change, preferably a lighter air fork on the front will make a difference.
Even though lighter wheels would be an improvement on weight, the big box rims are just so tough that i dont really want to change them.

I dont want to get a new bike for a while, since i will be going out of year 12 and into travel/uni etc, and i dont really want to have to fuss over a new rig. Thats why this year i want to use the I drive bike to create something durable, but good for every sorta riding. And while im with my parents and can still scum money off them, i might as well add bits to the bike which will reduce its weight but hopefully keep its strength.

This is Willy, signing out......

 

[Cúl-Báire]

I surgest you take a good look at the ID XC 2.0 mate it looks like a good by and probably better value than the I-Drive

 

[luckyphil]

if your going to get something upgraded "pretty much straight away", u might as well ask the shop if they are willing to exchange the seat to your preffered option, seeing as it will be alot cheaper for you that way.
just a thought...

 

[Gonzo]

And while im with my parents and can still scum money off them, i might as well add bits to the bike which will reduce its weight but hopefully keep its strength.

Cheap, Light, Strong.
Pick any two

 

[LordNikon]

I'm with CB on this one, the ID XC models are a better choice for an XC bike.

Still the same mechanism as the standard I-Drive but in a more XC / lightweight format.

 

[WILLY]

I considered those IDXC bikes, but with the new design, it hasnt really been tested, whereas the I-drive has been going for years now.
Ultimately, the I-drive is perfect for my riding, aggressive xc thats sorta like epic stuff too. And you can jump that Bike aswell!!
Anyway, it just works out cheaper what im doing.

 

[Rik]

Anyway, it just works out cheaper what im doing.

Not in the long run, unfortunately. But, it's an easy way to go about things, upgrading slowly... and when you feel like it, you can jump up to a better frame with all your nice shiney bits. I'm almost at that stage now, I've spent so much money on parts over long term so I haven't noticed it, but my frame is holding me back from my goal.

One word to keep in mind: Overcapitalising.

 

[LordNikon]

I'm also in the process of building a bike with the same idea Rik.

A Giant AC frame with components that would be completely at home on a Yeti.