Servicing older model Fox Float Forks

nathanm

nathanm

Eats Squid
So the next collective project is a 2012 Anthem which appears to, like that old joke about the polar bear, blown a seal (fork).

Having never serviced an Fox open bath fork before my research leads me to endless amounts of conflicting info.

So the genuine seals appear to be nla and have been replaced by the new gen flangeless version which apparently need the Fox tool to be installed and the dampers removed?

The Fox 10wt Red fork fluid had been replaced with Green?

Some tutorials show the rebound damper being removed, some dont?

Would appreciate some definitive advice on the correct parts and service instructions from knowledgeable burners.

Can't I just do an old skool rockshox and drop the lowers and squirt 5ml of 15wt each side.
 
oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
Which exact fork/damper??

yer, leave damper in.. unless need to rebuild it.

related but.. 2013 manual for giants, with torque specs and stuff.. maybe don't need.
www.scribd.com

Giant Maestro ServiceManual v2 | PDF | Vehicles | Land Vehicles

Scribd is the world's largest social reading and publishing site.
www.scribd.com www.scribd.com

air spring kits and service kits

Air Spring Seal Kits - Fox - Internal Seal Kits - Parts for Forks - Forks | Shockcraft

www.shockcraft.co.nz www.shockcraft.co.nz

Fox Fork Service Kits | Shockcraft

www.shockcraft.co.nz www.shockcraft.co.nz

for example F32, add and subtract what you need/don't. They have non-flange Fox, and flanged/unflanged SKF seal kits

Fork Service Kit Fox 32 Forks 2000-2015 | Shockcraft

<p>Kit containing all the essentials for servicing your 32 mm stanchioned Fox Forx.</p>
www.shockcraft.co.nz www.shockcraft.co.nz

for flangeless, not hard to 3D print a tool.. or get the right sized bit of PVC pipe :)
But the lower friction SKF seals have less stiction, and supposedly leak less than the OEM..

oils https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/oils/oem-equivalents-oil-charts/fox-oem-equivalents
Motorex 7.5wt or 10wt fork fluid will do instead of green or red 10wt, but can go up or down depending if you need more or less damping (and move the range of adjustment) (i think i ended up mixing some different 5w and 10w i had for moto to get the right feel...)

IIRC the Blue Float Fluid is diff oil.. ike 75 to 90wt.. nothing fancy.

(i have lots of info on rebuilding the PITA RP3/23 shocks :p )
 
oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
oh, and this used to be a page on the interwebs i had bookmarked but got borked.. (fox guide to rebuilding Float RL forks)

thankfully the WayBackMachine has a copy :)

https://web.archive.org/web/2016022...mers/Content/Service/Forks/FLOAT/FLOAT_RL.htm

also 2010 "Quick air spring service"
https://web.archive.org/web/2016041...ervice/QuickTech/AllAirSpringQuickService.htm

and open bath damper rebuild https://web.archive.org/web/2018012.../Service/QuickTech/32Gen3OBRL_ServiceProc.htm

also torque specs for the forks
https://web.archive.org/web/2016030...m/consumers/Content/Service/torque_values.htm

and OEM fork seal/dust wiper/bushing part numbers just in case...
https://web.archive.org/web/2016031...umers/content/Service/Tools_Supplies_Kits.htm

(seems that many of the internal links still work in the archive)
 
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oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
seal driver if you want to get fancy (works for flanged and flangeless)
www.thingiverse.com

Fox 32 Fork Seal Driver Tool by PlasticyBits

A Remix of creyc's Improved Seal Driver Tool for Fox 32 Forks. Decided to make my own version which is a bit simpler in design. Main changes are the top part is 44mm outer diameter. Flanged seals are approx. 45mm outer diameter of the flange. So it will work with both the flanged and flangeless...
www.thingiverse.com www.thingiverse.com


some other Archived Fox service docs..


FLoat R fork https://web.archive.org/web/2012021...umers/Content/Service/Forks/FLOAT/FLOAT_R.htm
Float RL fork (again) https://web.archive.org/web/2012110...mers/Content/Service/Forks/FLOAT/FLOAT_RL.htm
Float RLC fork https://web.archive.org/web/2012112...ers/Content/Service/Forks/FLOAT/FLOAT_RLC.htm


here, the 2012 or 2015 versions probably have the most pages saved (eg, TALAS forks etc)

Wayback Machine

web.archive.org web.archive.org
 
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Live2DieTrying

Live2DieTrying

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Oil change on fox O/B forks are easy.

-Undo the top caps, drain oil.
-Undo foot nuts. Tap loose spring and damper rod from lowers.
-Drop the lowers and remove the damper. (+ float assembly to grease the piston seal)
-Pump the damper up and down a bunch of times to drain out all the oil inside it. (It will top out and bottom out with a clunk and stop making slurping noises once it's empty)
-rip out old seals and clean out inside of lowers
(quick googling found Dougal from Shockcraft recommends Motorex 7.5wt, instead of the old Silkolene RSF 10 (fox 10 red)
-Soak new foam rings, Put foam rings back in, lowers on, lube into bottom of Float leg. install foot nut on float leg.
-Flip the fork over, float fluid on top of float piston. Install float top cap. Drop in damper and install it's foot nut
-add your damper fluid. Bottom out the fork, and cycle the damper up and down 20-30 times to circulate the new oil into the damper. Once it feels smooth right the top of it's stroke, you can push the lowers back down, secure the top cap, clean down the fork, and you are done.
 
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Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Yes, as above. That is why I still like the old open bath forks. Easy for a home service.
  • The part to pay attention with earlier Fox forks is the adjuster dials. They frequently used very small grub screws to hold the adjustment dial onto the shaft or adjustment dial below it. Be careful and open it up over a towel since it is utter hell to find those things if you can find it at all.
  • If you have maintained the forks and the foam rings are still in good condition then spray with isopropyl alcohol and clean them up. Soak in a thicker assembly fluid, like Fox Float fluid or something similar and refit.
  • If you need to replace the seals then use a wooden dowel with a rounded off end, grab the nearest wooden broom. It will help to get it off without messing up the lowers and bushings.
  • If you don't have a fork seal seating thingy then put the old seal onto top of the new seal and tap it into the lower with a mallet. It works almost too well :cool:
  • Fox have a load of different oil levels. You can still get Fox 10wt Green which is what virtually all floats up to about 2012-ish use.
  • You can usually recycle leg nuts and crush washers. I can only think of one crush washer I've had that has leaked after a service.
  • The rebound damper needed to be cycled a few times to remove the oil fluid. I haven't ever needed to pull one apart.
  • SKF seals should be the ones to get. Don't get those blue Enduro seals.
Glad to help out since I've fiddled with these forks for years. They are fairly simple to service.

Some linkys.
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=88
Oil volumes
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=530
Someone how-to that is pretty close to the procedure for all Floats in the era.
 
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Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
I'm going with your forks being these. The not FIT dampener but the OB.
https://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/012/Content/Forks/32/2012FLOAT_32.html

Check the description and photo the link:
Evolution O/B RL; 80, 100, 120, 140 & 150: Hard anodized upper tubes, 1.5" tapered steerer, 1 1/8" steerer, lever actuated lockout, air spring pressure, rebound

For the oil levels, number 27 on the list here seems to match up.
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=530

Fox32-OB-RL-2012.jpg


The seals look ok in your photo. If they aren't leaking nor any sharp bits scoring the stanchion then keep them. Clean them up and off you go.
Try to get 10wt or mix up a 10wt though. The oil is for both lube and dampening.

I think just inspect it for any badness. If all good then replace the fluids and ride on. That will most likely be enough.
 
nathanm

nathanm

Eats Squid
Mr Crudley said:
I'm going with your forks being these. The not FIT dampener but the OB.
https://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/012/Content/Forks/32/2012FLOAT_32.html

Check the description and photo the link:
Evolution O/B RL; 80, 100, 120, 140 & 150: Hard anodized upper tubes, 1.5" tapered steerer, 1 1/8" steerer, lever actuated lockout, air spring pressure, rebound

For the oil levels, number 27 on the list here seems to match up.
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=530

View attachment 405276

The seals look ok in your photo. If they aren't leaking nor any sharp bits scoring the stanchion then keep them. Clean them up and off you go.
Try to get 10wt or mix up a 10wt though. The oil is for both lube and dampening.

I think just inspect it for any badness. If all good then replace the fluids and ride on. That will most likely be enough.
Click to expand...
I've cleaned the seals up, they've certainly been leaking heavily and had a pile of crud not only on the seal but on the hub. I'm going to give them a service and hope for the best as they sound and feel rough and dry. Thanks for all the info
 
nathanm

nathanm

Eats Squid
Right so this hasn't gone well. I'll let the pics do the talking but it's a vanilla milkshake in there.

Screenshot_20231213_192353_Gallery.jpg


Is there supposed to be a pin hole in the black part of the damper. Guessing not and this is what has foamed the oil.

Screenshot_20231213_192402_Gallery.jpg


Guessing fork is a write off?
 
Live2DieTrying

Live2DieTrying

Likes Bikes and Dirt
I would say that hole is supposed to be there. Probably a bleed hole to help some oil bypass the base valve on high speed hits where it would normally spike.
Open bath dampers will always foam the oil to some degree.

That oil looks bad. You may want to disassemble the damper to clean out all of that nasty milkyness.
 
Live2DieTrying

Live2DieTrying

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Mr Crudley said:
Try to get 10wt or mix up a 10wt though. The oil is for both lube and dampening.
Click to expand...
The motorex has a very similar CST and will likely perform better.

The fox 10wt / silkolene rsf 10 is much more suited to use inside sealed dampers, and less suited for lowers lubrication. It seems to have been an odd choice by fox to use it in their open bath dampers.

I'd say if you already have the motorex, use it.
 
oldcorollas

oldcorollas

Levin the moment
merc-blue

merc-blue

Likes Bikes and Dirt
Oil has had moisture in it.
Dont bother opening it, finding the piston ring as a spare will be very difficult.
Push the base valve open with the end of a ziptie and cycle out the oil.
Then sit it in some clean oil and cycle it until it runs clean.
test the lockout is firm, and make sure it bleeds as it should (or you will lose damping after a few cycles.)
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Live2DieTrying said:
I would say that hole is supposed to be there. Probably a bleed hole to help some oil bypass the base valve on high speed hits where it would normally spike.
Open bath dampers will always foam the oil to some degree.

That oil looks bad. You may want to disassemble the damper to clean out all of that nasty milkyness.
Click to expand...
Yep, there must be water ingress in there somewhere to get it all milky. If the seals are leaky then that it a likely culprit.

If the foot nut and crush washer isn't too good then it will leak right after the service and easier to spot. Also makes it less likely as the point where water gets in.

Clean up, new seals, fresh oil and that hopefully will do it.
 
Mr Crudley

Mr Crudley

Glock in your sock
Live2DieTrying said:
The motorex has a very similar CST and will likely perform better.

The fox 10wt / silkolene rsf 10 is much more suited to use inside sealed dampers, and less suited for lowers lubrication. It seems to have been an odd choice by fox to use it in their open bath dampers.

I'd say if you already have the motorex, use it.
Click to expand...
I have older Fox fork that all use Fox green. I haven’t tried a substitute yet since I've just bought the green and been done with it.

I have kept this in mind since Fox green I guess would have to get discontinued by Fox eventually.

I agree that it sounds a bit odd for them to use Fox Red in this OB fork but it appears to have a revision of the red oil formula. All good. Green = Red.

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/question-about-fox-fork-red-green-oil.863477/post-12790971
 
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