Rebuilding Fox Vanilla RC

Disco

Likes Dirt
Ok, so I've aquired a Fox Vanilla RC rear shock, and the thread from where the preload ring screws into the piggyback resivour (?sp) cast end was loose, and there is no oil in the main shaft. How should I go about rebuilding it (Im fine with rebuilding shocks, I've done plenty of forks successfully), what weight and how much oil do I need in it, do I need to pull apart the resivour when filling it with oil and so forth? Any tips and hints? Bits to watch out for?

Its from a Craftworks DHR 208 (03), and I cant really justify a new shock or paying to get it rebuilt, so I'm aiming to do it myself.

Any help greatly appreciated

Michael
 

Rik

logged out
Are you confident working with pressurised nitrogen? A shock can be a hand grenade when in the wrong hands, you really are best off having it rebuilt professionally.
 

Disco

Likes Dirt
Pressurized Nitrogen? Strewth, I was hoping just to be able to top her up with oil... As It was loose and unpressurized to start off with.

*Btw its pre-propedal.

Michael
 
Last edited:

lotec

Banned
once youve put the oil in there they do need to be pressurised with nitrogen, however, i THINK a motorbike shop may be able to do this for you? cant help you on how to do the rest though sorry
 

udi

swiss cheese
kids don't try this at home.

Disco-

Having been through this experience before, it IS possible to DIY and get the shock working decent without sending it away. But here comes the but.

I already wrote up a big reply, but whether it's relevant or not is PURELY dependant on whether you unscrewed or got the leak at the hex bolt/cap of your piggyback resovoir, or on the main oil area.

Might want to give us some more detail on what EXACTLY is unscrewed, ie piggyback from main shock body threads, OR endcap on the tip of the piggyback (hex shaped bolt that is one-piece with aluminium cap).

I've saved the reply on my desktop and will finish it off and post depending on your response. :p
 

Disco

Likes Dirt
The piggyback from the main shock body threads (ie same threads the spring preload ring screws to.
Anyone know who does rebuilds (dont really care bout bushings etc) then? In WA but can post, depending if uDi's method works or not.

Michael
 

udi

swiss cheese
kids don't try this at home - pt.2

Okay, you're in luck.

If your willing to spend the cash, like rik said, just get it rebuilt properly dont arse around. I'm sure dirtworks will look after you. With the disclaimer over, here goes.

I'm pretty sure that the nitrogen chamber has a floating piston that seperates it from the oil, and when the oil has leaked out, well the piston will max out, ie the "chamber" will be as "large" as it can be, and that will be all. That is based on the assumption that there IS a floating piston and that the nitrogen is charged through the piggyback after rebuilding the shock with oil. I'm quite sure that's how it works, but do correct me if i'm wrong. So basically, the nitrogen will not leak out, nor leave the shock, unless the cap on the resovoir itself is opened.

Anyway, in my case, it wasn't worth rebuilding one particular shock, so I went ahead and did a DIY. Below = what I did.

1. Take the spring and all hardware off the shock. Wind compression and rebound adjusters out until they hit their stops.
2. Gently but firmly clamp the two flats on the shock body (where the shaft comes out) in the vice. Use something between shock+vice to avoid damage.
3. Grab the piggyback resovoir in with your hands, and turn it anti-clockwise (ie unscrew it from shock body)... use a plastic sheet or towel over it if you're worried. I was, but nothing came out of mine. No explosions or cool stuff like that, sadly.
4. Empty remaining shock oil into a container.
5. Get some good ATF. I had a fresh bottle of castrol atf, I flushed out the old oil really well with that. Pump the piston with your hand slowly with some ATF in there, don't squirt yourself in the eye, etc etc.
6. Empty the fluid out again. Move the piston right down to the bottom, and fill the shock to the brim with ATF. Why ATF? well, it's what I had handy - but it's quite an advanced fluid that is resistant to quite high temperatures, is roughly the same viscosity as the stock shock oil, and well - it worked, so take that!
7. Bleed. Gently pump the piston up and down, to encourage air bubbles to come to the surface. Leave it for 10 minutes, do something else, then pump again, leave, etc etc. Do it a few times.
8. With the fluid full to the brim, fill the cap up a little as well, and basically you want to try and close it up with as much fluid in there as possible.
9. Rub some silicone oil/grease on the shaft if you want to be pedantic, then clean it well, install everything nicely, and try it out. The rebound adjustment should work perfectly, the shock should function silky smooth, and you'll want to wind the compression knob all the way in to make the best use of the nitrogen left in the resovoir.
10. Decide that mums vegetable oil wasn't a good enough substitute for ATF and tell yourself you'll use the right fluid next time.

Ah yeah, before anyone abuses me, read the disclaimer, yes I went through this process carefully and it worked perfectly for me - if anyone wants more details feel free to PM, or im happy to post as long as it won't upset industry people bla bla.

-Udi
 

Disco

Likes Dirt
Would I be fine to use 5 or 10wt Fork Oil? Ive got some of that floating around...

Michael
 

udi

swiss cheese
You could give 10wt fork oil a go, but real shock oil would be quite a different animal - as because of the much smaller amount of oil inside a shock, and the higher amounts of heat - shock oil would be fairly advanced to put up with the abuse given to it.

But by all means try it out, see how you go - should work alright. :)
 
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