Quick Hope bleed question

[Nautonier]

I'm about to do a bleed on my first ever set of Hopes (Tech 3 V4) and watching a few videos it seems pretty straightforward, potentially a lot easier than Shimano or Sram.

The one thing none of the videos or instructions covers, is where the lever reach and BPA should be set prior to the bleed process. I'm guessing that it would make sense to wind the levers as far away from the bar as they'll go and the BPA (contact point adjustment) wound all the way out, making the lever throw at its maximum. Any tips on this?

I'm also finding it a little disturbing how in all of the videos they leave the pads in and don't wear gloves. I'm not gonna risk leaving the pads in!

 

[moorey]

There are no quick nautonier questions.

 

[JTmofo]

Sometimes you just gotta try something... if it doesn't work... try something else.

This is how society and mankind evolve.. by trial and error.



Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[moorey]

Only one tech Q before 9am. RUOK Rob?

 

[Nautonier]

Both Sram and Shimano are very specific about lever positions/BPA prior to bleeding, I'll take a risk and make the assumption that it really doesn't matter with Hope.

Trial and error it is them...

 

[Daniel Hale]

the back blled of hopes is so much better, i left the pads in, just make sure you have the tube on nice & snug & you don't move it around so much as to dislodge as you'll get leakage [ old guys should know about leakage] i had my levers horizontal -didn't bother with winding them out -i tend to favout leaving in the middle -that way you can adjust either way [after a bleed the hopes really bit]

 

[Nautonier]

the back blled of hopes is so much better, i left the pads in, just make sure you have the tube on nice & snug & you don't move it around so much as to dislodge as you'll get leakage [ old guys should know about leakage] i had my levers horizontal -didn't bother with winding them out -i tend to favout leaving in the middle -that way you can adjust either way [after a bleed the hopes really bit]

Thanks, off to bleed I go. Hopefully there won't be any leakage...

 

[Joe_MTB]

Last time I did a Hope bleed I’m sure I read in one of their tech docs to wind BPA fully out. I don’t think reach matters. Hope brakes run the pads pretty close to the rotor though so I wound mine in a bit before I started to give myself more opportunity to back the pads away from the disk on muddy days.

 

[teK--]

Both Sram and Shimano are very specific about lever positions/BPA prior to bleeding, I'll take a risk and make the assumption that it really doesn't matter with Hope.

Trial and error it is them...

I wind out the lever and bpa all the way and also put in a bleed block. A saint bleed block with some minor filing fits perfectly.

 

[Nautonier]

Yep, Hopes are significantly easier to bleed than Sram or Shimano. I went with the lever halfway out and same with BPA. On the front I removed the pads and fully retracted the pistons, on the rear I left the pads in. I reckon the bleed I did with the pads out/pistons retracted was slightly better, but there's not much in it. I have seen guys digging around with a screwdriver to retract the pistons when the pads are in, but I'm not keen to do that for the small amount of time it takes to take them out.

Great brakes, I'll have to test them on the trail, but they seem to have about the same amount of power and modulation as my RSCs. My only minor gripe is that I wish the lever design had that additional bend away from the bars right at the end that Sram and Shimano do. Unless the levers are grabbing quite a long way out, they tend to contact the middle finger joint.

 

[pink poodle]

I hope our wound everything out as far as possible? I've been a hope man for a long time and all the way out yields a significantly better result.

 

[Nautonier]

I hope our wound everything out as far as possible? I've been a hope man for a long time and all the way out yields a significantly better result.

Noted for next time.