Losing some weight-The next level

[pistonbroke]

Many of you would have read and contributed to Art's thread about losing weight from his 2014 Giant Anthem Advanced 29er 1.

Well I have a 2013 Giant Anthem Advanced 29er 0 which is pretty stock and tipped the scales at bang on 10.5kg without pedals but with tubes.

I have since gone tubeless and put lighter esi foam grips on and added XT race pedals.
The bike is full XX 2X10 including 11-36 XX cassette and XX World Cup brakes. It also has Giant's excellent 1410 gram carbon wheelset. It's fitted out with Giant SLR carbon bars, stem and post and a carbon Fizik saddle that weighs in at 166 grams. Suspension is RS 100mm rct3 forks and RS rct3 shock which work really well.

So where can I lose weight without spending thousands on exotic German carbon bits? Egg beater 11 pedals is an obvious one, and when I find them at the right price at the right time I will get some.
Ti bolts? Does anyone know if the XX WC brakes run Ti mounting and rotor bolts?
Also like the look of Chops Tune seatpost clamp but for whatever stupid reason Giant uses a 34mm clamp instead of the usual 34.9.
When I have some spare $$$ I'll look at Tune front and rear axles.
But that's about all I can come up with. I'm not spending $3000 on tune wheels to go uber light. Stans Race Gold wheels are only 20 grams lighter and far weaker.
I am not looking at going 1X on this bike any time soon as the XX gears work very well.

Any more ideas?

 

[steve24]

I would be thinking- Thomson Masterpost or if under 75kg then something exotic...
lighter stem- KCNC/ Ritchey/ Syntace
Schmolke TLO bars- yes they cost but shop around, also $/g they work out pretty well (88g for a 680mm bar).
Extralite Black lock 15mm axle.
Are you QR rear? Try a steel hex head instead of the QR.
I am a CB pedal fan, many are not. Try some cheap egg beaters before you invest big $s and be prepared to change cleats every 6 months. I have some I can lend you if you want to try them.

XX brakes will have Ti mounting bolts and should have ti rotor bolts.

Rotors can save gms but often squeal, warp, give poor performance.

Check Toronto cycles for Ti/ Alu bolts.

Don't bother with light jockey wheels- they last 10 min......

Cranks are worth a look too- XX are not light but best shifting around.

and for a free 150g chop your fork down, tape a tube to your frame and ditch saddle bag.

 

[spudatm]

I reckon your pretty close to done without starting to go to Ti bolts etc which to me is only an option if you have way to much money in your pocket. I know you have said you don't want to go 1x but that is the most obvious place. You will lose 3-400 grams by the time you ditch the left shifter front deraillure and a few chain links. I converted mine in an emergency and love the simplicity of it. If you are worried about range get an aftermarket 42 tooth for the cassette and then get a a 32 and a 36 chain ring so you have options come race day. You could look at JetBlack rotors which are cheap and light but I ditched them after not pulling up on some tight corners here in the mountains. The other cheapest one is yourself. I know I haven't gone overboard on weight weenish behaviour as I know I could drop a few kegs, best performance upgrade you can get.

 

[pharmaboy]

If you want to go faster, put some time into learning to train, if you want a lighter bike for lightness sake, then really you have everything covered.

Seriously, weight makes sweet fuck all difference - as best I can tell at the mont last weekend ( adjusting for the course) I was around 1 minute slower over 1hr carrying an extra 5kg. This is consistent with other lap times of around 40seconds slower over 26min for the same weight gain.

Skinny guys are fast because they train harder, when you train hard it's really farkin hard to be fat.

BTW, it's a farkin great bike - ride it like you stole it!

 

[ChopSticks]

trim down anything excess... ie cables/hoses.... looks like theres abit of a jungle on the front there?

my next 'upgrade' will be jagwire mini i-link cables, that should drop about 40g from my bike (I need 2x kits as I run full outters).
You will only require one kit as you have exposed housing.

chop that steerer tube (10-15 grams), and replace that god awful giant carbon stem (heard they crack often?)

is that a carbon cage? alloy bottles?

really consider Ti bolts..... once you replace every bolt, and add up the difference, you'll be surprised!


ohhh.. and if you're considering Tune clamps..... just go all out and get some Extralite BlackLocks or Carbon-Ti ones




edit..... pull the rebound knob off if you have your fork dialled... surely thats 5grams there.

 

[mitchy_]

If you want to go faster, put some time into learning to train, if you want a lighter bike for lightness sake, then really you have everything covered.

Seriously, weight makes sweet fuck all difference - as best I can tell at the mont last weekend ( adjusting for the course) I was around 1 minute slower over 1hr carrying an extra 5kg. This is consistent with other lap times of around 40seconds slower over 26min for the same weight gain.

proof is in the pudding... chops' weight weenie mobile was putting in consistently slow laps at the mont...

given most of your gear is light as is, you're going to be paying the weight weenie tax for little gain. even changing minor things like bolts, cables etc is going to get you sub 100 grams... which only your wallet will notice.
wheels/tyres are the game changer.. you've got some very light wheels as is.. go ride it.

 

[creaky]

Wow, that giant wheelset is light if circa 1400g.

Really, a 29 dually (esp. if L or XL) with multi-link suspension at 10.5kg is pretty damn good.

Paint some racing stripes on it, or maybe an inspirational top tube message like "go faster you fat f#ck" .... That will surely make more difference !!!

Obviously take my advice with a grain of salt as I just bought a $500 set of cranks .... Hmmm

 

[SummitFever]

As others have said, pedals, seatpost, stem and bars are the bits you should be able to shed some weight on. Saving weight at $1/g is the sort of go to rule about whether the expenditure is worth it or not. Your bike is already light enough that there is probably nothing you can do to save a gram for $1. The only thing that comes to mind is foam grips like Ritchey WCS will be half the weight of the ESI's (and $10) and I find them more comfortable than the ESIs.

I use Xpedo XMF08TT Pedals which will save you 100+g over the XT but will cost around $160.

You should weigh your seatpost, bars and stem to see what sort of savings are available. Also, if you go with replacement bars and stem, try to work your position out using the correct angle stem to work with flatbars. There's no point in having a slammed downward pointing stem and then putting the hand position back up with riser bars.

 

[pistonbroke]

Paint some racing stripes on it, or maybe an inspirational top tube message like "go faster you fat f#ck" .... That will surely make more difference !!!

I like that. What's the lightest paint?

 

[Pastavore]

If you reduce your sock height from 6" to 3" you should lose 8g.

 

[kl3ggy]

Dayum that's light!!

I don't understand the whole weight weenie thing though. At what point does all this weight saving make difference in your race times or more importantly the fun your having on your bike? Don't get me wrong when the time comes to replace or get a new part, I look at the weight and based on performance and reliability will generally go the lighter route.

However when you pushing low 10's, high 9's, how much of a difference does changing to Ti bolts and the like really make? Surely at some point you would have to look at the money going into weight saving vs. Enjoyment of riding.

In the end if you have the $$$, and want to spend it on saving weight on your pushy, good on you. Myself personally I have never understood it. :flame: Some please school me!

Nice Bike Mate, & impressive specs

 

[pharmaboy]

As others have said, pedals, seatpost, stem and bars are the bits you should be able to shed some weight on. Saving weight at $1/g is the sort of go to rule about whether the expenditure is worth it or not. Your bike is already light enough that there is probably nothing you can do to save a gram for $1. The only thing that comes to mind is foam grips like Ritchey WCS will be half the weight of the ESI's (and $10) and I find them more comfortable than the ESIs.

I use Xpedo XMF08TT Pedals which will save you 100+g over the XT but will cost around $160.

You should weigh your seatpost, bars and stem to see what sort of savings are available. Also, if you go with replacement bars and stem, try to work your position out using the correct angle stem to work with flatbars. There's no point in having a slammed downward pointing stem and then putting the hand position back up with riser bars.

Just reminded me of something - I reckon a good position saves real time - nice low front, seat a little further forward than most people think with cleats back towards mid foot as far as they go - getting your position forward can sometimes help you climb markedly better- make some changes and test it out . Strava is actually useful for this kind of stuff

Definately needs flat bars - at least 2" drop from seat to bars

 

[silentbutdeadly]

There's bugger all there to loose. As others have said 10.5 kg for an Anthem is not heavy. My own 2011 alloy version comes in another 2 kgs heavier as it is.

There's things you can do of course but I'd be more inclined to simply ride the damn thing and if something fails or breaks then perhaps replace it with something lighter/better. This is what I do.

Each of my bikes has an ever updating potential component list - if a part fails or wears out then it gets replaced with its equivalent from the list. Easy as...

 

[ChopSticks]

2 other things have crossed my mind.... what chain are you using?
if not a KMC x10sl... then look into getting one

also what 160 rotors are you running?
dont go all out weenie and sacrifice braking for weenie rotors.... but i went from 160 ice techs (116g) to 160 hope floating (92g) (larger diameters Hope are apparently heavier than shimano equivalents)

 

[g-fish]

Not much more you can do by the looks of it. New cranks might drop you a few hundred grams. Forget cb pedals, they're shit. Ritchey make very light spd pedals that are as reliable as shimano. I've changed to time recently who make light pedals with really positive engagement. Big fan.

+1 on training and weight loss. I used to do the weight weenie thing. Now I just ride, way fitter in the last year than I ever have been and having a lot more fun. My bike is probably 2kgs heavier than chop's, but I was putting 15mins per lap on him at the mont (just to rub it in).

If you want to loose weight for bling reasons that's different and understandable.. That money would be better invested in a road bike and training though.

 

[Gripo]

Can't see a whole lot of "cheap" weight dropping ie. 30-100g per part without deeply digging into the piggy bank.....and the weight you drop from this end of the build is really for your mental strength as you still physically struggle up that hill....

Be the least worried about a 11g Tune seatclamp.... your steerer needs trimming down = 20g

Lighter stem/bar combo...guess 70g

Thomson Masterpiece seatpost 50g

Lighter seat 50g...

I know what you said about keeping 2x but to be honest if you rode a Sram X01 drivetrain you wouldn't miss the gears.... 200g there....

 

[pistonbroke]

Rotors are Avid HSX. I'm not a huge fan of really light rotors.
Seat post is 400mm giant carbon and weighs 210 grams.
Bottle cage is giant carbon 21 grams with alloy bolts.
Seat clamp is giant alloy and 29 grams.
Chain is kmc x10sl.

 

[SummitFever]

Just reminded me of something - I reckon a good position saves real time - nice low front, seat a little further forward than most people think with cleats back towards mid foot as far as they go - getting your position forward can sometimes help you climb markedly better- make some changes and test it out ...

I couldn't agree more. A more forward position (within reason) will also help with cornering and being able to weight the front wheel properly.

 

[Ackland]

Rotors are Avid HSX. I'm not a huge fan of really light rotors.
Seat post is 400mm giant carbon and weighs 210 grams.
Bottle cage is giant carbon 21 grams with alloy bolts.
Seat clamp is giant alloy and 29 grams.
Chain is kmc x10sl.

Formula 33 Fork - just need a new top bearing in the headset.
Formula Alloy rotors with Ti bolts.
Formula R1 Racing brakes are lighter than Avid WC's (And better IMO)
Tune Schwarzes Stuck post (Black Stick)
Tune DC15 Front Skewers are nice... if rear is QR, Tune do a very light and yet very sturdy QR clamp
I posted in Chops SB66 thread that you should look at the Carbocage clamp... 10g
Can get a 9g Tune Carbon bottle cage....
There are lighter 2x Cranksets.... NextSL or Tune Blackfoot is about to drop in Aus....
Syntace bars and stem - Get your front end ergonomics dialled

All of these can be had via Krischan @ EightyOneSpices.... drop him a line info@eightyonespices.com.au

He's the guy to talk to about lightening your bike.... and wallet....

*I don't work for EOS, Krischan is a great guy, an Aussie distro bringing in premium parts and doesn't stuff you about....

 

[creaky]

I use Xpedo XMF08TT Pedals which will save you 100+g over the XT but will cost around $160.

Pfft ... lighter pedals don't actually save any grams cause everyone knows that you never weigh a bike with pedals on. That is money wasted right there :behindsofa: