gillyske
Likes Dirt
I don't think so.
Knocking in fork
- Thread starter gillyske
- Start date
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
You mentioned before grabbing the break..... That might be your problem........
leitch
Feelin' a bit rrranty
Really looks to me like it’s just the fork breaking away from top out, I’m almost certain all the forks I’ve ever owned have done some form of this under the “apply front brake and rock fore/aft” scenario.
Is there any knocking etc when you’re riding?
You could also try releasing the air, cycling the fork a couple of times and then re-pressurising (in three stages, gently compressing the fork in between to allow air through the transfer port) in case there’s a bit of a pressure differential between positive and negative springs that’s making it more pronounced.
Is there any knocking etc when you’re riding?
You could also try releasing the air, cycling the fork a couple of times and then re-pressurising (in three stages, gently compressing the fork in between to allow air through the transfer port) in case there’s a bit of a pressure differential between positive and negative springs that’s making it more pronounced.
gillyske
Likes Dirt
So after doing some research this knocking is a design feature of fox 36's. Fox call it hydrodynamic lubrication where oil is supposed to sit around the bushing and act as a barrier during operation.
Turning the fork upside down and cycling the fork a few times, then flipping it back up right the noise is considerably reduced and the knock is softened... for a little bit, but its definitely still present and gets back to its noisy self after 5 seconds. I'll take it to the shop so they can send it to fox for an inspection for piece of mind, but the mattoc, lyrik or even vanilla rlc never had this much play.
Turning the fork upside down and cycling the fork a few times, then flipping it back up right the noise is considerably reduced and the knock is softened... for a little bit, but its definitely still present and gets back to its noisy self after 5 seconds. I'll take it to the shop so they can send it to fox for an inspection for piece of mind, but the mattoc, lyrik or even vanilla rlc never had this much play.
Minlak
custom titis
So either my fox 36's or your fox 36's are broken cause mine don't do the same as you are experiencing.
hifiandmtb
Sphincter beanie
Sounds like a sweet excuse! Congrats, Fox
gillyske
Likes Dirt
Would my forks be the first of the factory to come with less oil than required? Probably not, that's my guess.
beeb
Dr. Beebenson, PhD HA, ST, Offset (hons)
My 36's are stictiony when they've been sitting for a while, but fine in use once they've been moved (compressed) for the first time. TBH, it feels like the bushings are just a little too snug - which is probably better than the bushes being too loose but still not ideal. Side note - the same lowers have had two CSU's and felt identical (no issues with creaking, I just wanted black stanchions on my Waltly - not Kashima so swapped CSU's). I thought they had an issue similar to yours at one point, but it turned out the lower headset bearing was just starting to develop some play - bearing didn't feel too bad in the hand but it felt rattly through the bars (yes, I tried tightening the headset, made sure the stem cap wasn't bottomed out, etc... It was the bearing).
It was (is?) common that Fox 36's come with way too much grease in the lowers and choke the transfer port on the air-spring. That shouldn't make it knock though - just had to engage and harsh... If it's not brake knock like previously inspected - I'd be sending it away for inspection (given it's new).
It was (is?) common that Fox 36's come with way too much grease in the lowers and choke the transfer port on the air-spring. That shouldn't make it knock though - just had to engage and harsh... If it's not brake knock like previously inspected - I'd be sending it away for inspection (given it's new).