fair cop, it just seems like a lot of mucking around
Is it possible to convert a Giant ATX transmission?
- Thread starter TheMaxys
- Start date
OK, now it has Deore 2x10 drivetrain. mostly M600, but crank set is M615 and front derailleur is slx.
I've got some issues however.
- After setting up my real derailleur it sometimes fail to shift to 11T cog. I am still toying around with cable tension screw(which is on shifter), but still no luck.
All the videos I've found were assuming I've had removed my derailleur and fitting it back, so no proper explanation as to how to actually pretension the wire or in which position to start all the adjustments, so I was kind of left to guess what goes first...
Maybe someone could guide me on what to do first and what after that and so on(I will look on youtub how, just need to know in what order)?
- Front derailleur (SLX m675) causing troubles during shifting from 24 to 38.
It is setup as per sticker 2mm above biggest cog. However the cage inside has shape which helps moving chain from inboard (small cog) to outboard (big cog). So this inside shape is actually pushing the chain against the big cog, rather than to push it on top of it. SHould I try and lift the derailleur higher? From the looks of it it seems I would need to move it like 3 mm higher, which will make gap beteen the cog and the cage to be 5 mm. Can it be the case what the chain is not good (KMC X10)? SLX derailleur just can't work with Deore crankset? SLX derailleur just cant' work with 24-38 crankset?
Kind regards for your input.
I've got some issues however.
- After setting up my real derailleur it sometimes fail to shift to 11T cog. I am still toying around with cable tension screw(which is on shifter), but still no luck.
All the videos I've found were assuming I've had removed my derailleur and fitting it back, so no proper explanation as to how to actually pretension the wire or in which position to start all the adjustments, so I was kind of left to guess what goes first...
Maybe someone could guide me on what to do first and what after that and so on(I will look on youtub how, just need to know in what order)?
- Front derailleur (SLX m675) causing troubles during shifting from 24 to 38.
It is setup as per sticker 2mm above biggest cog. However the cage inside has shape which helps moving chain from inboard (small cog) to outboard (big cog). So this inside shape is actually pushing the chain against the big cog, rather than to push it on top of it. SHould I try and lift the derailleur higher? From the looks of it it seems I would need to move it like 3 mm higher, which will make gap beteen the cog and the cage to be 5 mm. Can it be the case what the chain is not good (KMC X10)? SLX derailleur just can't work with Deore crankset? SLX derailleur just cant' work with 24-38 crankset?
Kind regards for your input.
The Duckmeister
Has a juicy midrange
Rear derailleur:
First, make sure it's mounted correctly. The little link bracket at the top of the derailleur (weirdly referred to by Shimano as the Bracket Axle Unit) needs to sit roughly horizontal behind the frame's hanger. Make sure the stopper knob is properly located against the step in the hanger.
Second, with the cable detached, adjust the High limit screw (marked with an H next to it) so the centre of the top jockey wheel teeth align with the outer face of the 11T sprocket teeth. With the high limit set, push the derailleur across by hand and adjust the Low limit screw to centre the top jockey wheel below the large sprocket.
While in the low (big) gear, use the B-tension screw (the third adjustment on the back of the derailleur) to adjust the vertical clearance between the large sprocket and the top jockey wheel; aim for around 5mm.
Drop the derailleur back to high gear, wind the adjuster on the shifter out a few turns so you have some room to slacken the cable if necesary, and connect the cable to the derailleur, making sure it's guided along the correct side of the bolt - there's a little groove in the derailleur body to locate the cable in. Pull the cable firm but not super tight and snug down the clamp bolt. Run through & fine tune the gears.
Front Derailleur:
Use the guide sticker to set the vertical clearance, as you have done, to 2mm MAX above the tallest teeth (there are lower-profile teeth at the shifting points around the ring), and align the cage parallel to the rings.
Shift the rear to low gear (the big sprocket), and the front on the small ring, and use the Low limit screw (inboard if it's a high clamp, outboard if it's a low-clamp) to set the front derailleur so there's no more than 1mm gap between the inboard face of the chain and the inner plate of the derailleur cage. As with the rear, wind the adjuster on the shifter out a few turns, then connect the cable, this time leaving just a little bit of slack.
Shift the rear to top (the little one) gear and the front to the big ring. Use the High limit screw to set the derailleur with, like the Low limit, no more than 1mm clearance between the side of the chain and the outer plate of the cage. At this point you may need to manually push the derailleur to set the limit. If the cable allows the derailleur to drop away from the limit and drag on the chain, wind up the tension to pull the derailleur against the limit stop. Try a few shifts; if the derailleur feels like it's hitting the limit before the shifter has clicked properly into place, drop a bit of cable tension.
First, make sure it's mounted correctly. The little link bracket at the top of the derailleur (weirdly referred to by Shimano as the Bracket Axle Unit) needs to sit roughly horizontal behind the frame's hanger. Make sure the stopper knob is properly located against the step in the hanger.
Second, with the cable detached, adjust the High limit screw (marked with an H next to it) so the centre of the top jockey wheel teeth align with the outer face of the 11T sprocket teeth. With the high limit set, push the derailleur across by hand and adjust the Low limit screw to centre the top jockey wheel below the large sprocket.
While in the low (big) gear, use the B-tension screw (the third adjustment on the back of the derailleur) to adjust the vertical clearance between the large sprocket and the top jockey wheel; aim for around 5mm.
Drop the derailleur back to high gear, wind the adjuster on the shifter out a few turns so you have some room to slacken the cable if necesary, and connect the cable to the derailleur, making sure it's guided along the correct side of the bolt - there's a little groove in the derailleur body to locate the cable in. Pull the cable firm but not super tight and snug down the clamp bolt. Run through & fine tune the gears.
Front Derailleur:
Use the guide sticker to set the vertical clearance, as you have done, to 2mm MAX above the tallest teeth (there are lower-profile teeth at the shifting points around the ring), and align the cage parallel to the rings.
Shift the rear to low gear (the big sprocket), and the front on the small ring, and use the Low limit screw (inboard if it's a high clamp, outboard if it's a low-clamp) to set the front derailleur so there's no more than 1mm gap between the inboard face of the chain and the inner plate of the derailleur cage. As with the rear, wind the adjuster on the shifter out a few turns, then connect the cable, this time leaving just a little bit of slack.
Shift the rear to top (the little one) gear and the front to the big ring. Use the High limit screw to set the derailleur with, like the Low limit, no more than 1mm clearance between the side of the chain and the outer plate of the cage. At this point you may need to manually push the derailleur to set the limit. If the cable allows the derailleur to drop away from the limit and drag on the chain, wind up the tension to pull the derailleur against the limit stop. Try a few shifts; if the derailleur feels like it's hitting the limit before the shifter has clicked properly into place, drop a bit of cable tension.