can i upgrade my suspension from 120mm front/rear to 140/150mm???????

Nutzaz

Squid
hey all I got a 2012 rocky mountain element 30 26er, its a fantastic bike but I have found the 120mm suspension does have its limits with travel. what im wanting to know is it possible to replace the forks and rear shock to say 140/150mm thinking fox float 32z etc and not totally f up the whole geometry of the bike imo its really the front that I really could do with the extra but if both is possible that would be even better. I do know there altitude rage of bikes have more travel standard but id rather spend 500-700 on some new suspension then having to sell the bike and buy one that has my needed travel (worst case I will do it) any advice would be great cheers.
 

Intense1

Banned
hey all I got a 2012 rocky mountain element 30 26er, its a fantastic bike but I have found the 120mm suspension does have its limits with travel. what im wanting to know is it possible to replace the forks and rear shock to say 140/150mm thinking fox float 32z etc and not totally f up the whole geometry of the bike imo its really the front that I really could do with the extra but if both is possible that would be even better. I do know there altitude rage of bikes have more travel standard but id rather spend 500-700 on some new suspension then having to sell the bike and buy one that has my needed travel (worst case I will do it) any advice would be great cheers.
You can change the forks out to a 20mm longer travel option. That will slacken the head angle out a bit and doesn't pose any real danger IMO

But don't put a longer shock in. Just don't.
 

moorey

call me Mia
But don't put a longer shock in. Just don't.
Advice from a man (troll) buying and riding a fatally cracked bike against all advice.
That said, he's mostly right. That said, it can be done, and I have done it ON CERTAIN FRAMES UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS. You can get a little more travel without altering geo and bb height noticeably but running offset bushes and a slightly longer shock if it doesn't foul anywhere in it's extended travel. You might get 10-15mm more in the rear, but forget trying to get 30mm without causing major issues and ruining your ride. Some frame can do it, some can't, not advised if you don't know what you are doing.
By all means, put a 20mm longer fork on the front. I do it on virtually every build I do.
 

Nutzaz

Squid
Why is everyone scared about changing rear shock length? I just cant understand how an extra 20-30mm could cause so many "horrific" issues, being 100kgs the extra 20-30mm will most likely squat back to its normal area of pivot (120mm range) i would of thought, but until i get a loan of a longer shock and check the travel and if its massively changed the rear geometry i really wont know, a few have mentioned it will change the area to where the stress load would be and could possibly damage/crack the frame but i also dont believe an extra 20mm could do that.
 

Nutzaz

Squid
I believe if i keep bottoming out the bike more and more im going to do more stress/ damage to the rims suspension and frame than what an extra 20mm of extra travel would do by absorbing all all the bump, not bottoming out
 

JTmofo

XC Enthusiast
Why is everyone scared about changing rear shock length? I just cant understand how an extra 20-30mm could cause so many "horrific" issues, being 100kgs the extra 20-30mm will most likely squat back to its normal area of pivot (120mm range) i would of thought, but until i get a loan of a longer shock and check the travel and if its massively changed the rear geometry i really wont know, a few have mentioned it will change the area to where the stress load would be and could possibly damage/crack the frame but i also dont believe an extra 20mm could do that.
There are many reasons not to change shock length. Its not just as easy as firing in a longer shock.
One very real problem is clearance issues. Most suspension pivot designs have their travel curves calculated for a specific shock length. This will have a direct impact on pivot locations and rear triangle and linkage clearance in relation to the frame.

The extra 20-30mm will potentially make a huge issue, but then again, maybe it wont.
As for being 100Kgs and expecting the squat taking up the extra travel, then you have not set you shock up correctly. Every shock is set for a individuals weight and preference. Whether its a 100mm XC or a 160mm AM, you set the sag (anywhere between 15-25% of the travel).
This being the case, if you go from 120mm travel and sag settings of 24mm (20%) to 150mm travel and sag setting of 30mm (again 20%) then your overall travel , while seated, will increase by 24mm regardless of your weight.
 

SummitFever

Eats Squid
Why is everyone scared about changing rear shock length?
A longer shock (eye-to-eye) may not fit. A longer stroke shock (with the same eye-to-eye) may result in some parts of the frame, wheels, shock or linkage coming into contact with each other at full compression.
 

JTmofo

XC Enthusiast
I believe if i keep bottoming out the bike more and more im going to do more stress/ damage to the rims suspension and frame than what an extra 20mm of extra travel would do by absorbing all all the bump, not bottoming out
If your bottoming out all the time, I'd be looking at shock set up and tune. Also, your shock might be busted and need repair.
I'd also be checking out if you have the right bike for your needs.......
 

Pastavore

Eats Squid
Why would you post a thread asking for advice, and then criticise the advice that is given? Seriously?

The comments you have received have come from probably an accumulated 100yrs of MTBing and mechanicing experience. Listen to the people,
 

Nutzaz

Squid
The bikes fine, the suspension is set up correctly, just some places i ride have rude flat land drop offs, and in some rock sections have some rude sections hit with too much speed just bottoms out more so the front end esp under hard braking, worst case would be to sell it and buy the rocky mountain altitude series they start from 150mm front / rear but i really do like the element and just thought if i could get a lil more in the suspension would be much cheaper than selling the bike and going and buying another 3-4 k bike again
 

Nutzaz

Squid
Why would you post a thread asking for advice, and then criticise the advice that is given? Seriously?

The comments you have received have come from probably an accumulated 100yrs of MTBing and mechanicing experience. Listen to the people,
If u have nothing positive to imput or say keep your comments to yourself, im not criticising anyone im asking as i cant get my head around how only a lil extra more travel could cause big issues, imo i might try some fox float 32z up front to see how that goes from 120 to 140/150 front but it appears everyone has the same on rear shock to leave it or change it for a better one with better bump rebound to assist this issue im having
 

moorey

call me Mia
If u have nothing positive to imput or say keep your comments to yourself, im not criticising anyone im asking as i cant get my head around how only a lil extra more travel could cause big issues, imo i might try some fox float 32z up front to see how that goes from 120 to 140/150 front but it appears everyone has the same on rear shock to leave it or change it for a better one with better bump rebound to assist this issue im having
You'll go far, cobs. Ignore my earlier warnings, do it, and report back.
Love,
Cunny
 

MARKL

Eats Squid
Why is everyone scared about changing rear shock length? I just cant understand how an extra 20-30mm could cause so many "horrific" issues, being 100kgs the extra 20-30mm will most likely squat back to its normal area of pivot (120mm range) i would of thought, but until i get a loan of a longer shock and check the travel and if its massively changed the rear geometry i really wont know, a few have mentioned it will change the area to where the stress load would be and could possibly damage/crack the frame but i also dont believe an extra 20mm could do that.
I believe if i keep bottoming out the bike more and more im going to do more stress/ damage to the rims suspension and frame than what an extra 20mm of extra travel would do by absorbing all all the bump, not bottoming out
Look, it's that time of year of peace and happiness to all...and I want to be entertained, just do it! Will be awesome :pound::pound:

Or listen to the advice above and learn to set up your existing suspension properly...
 

Pastavore

Eats Squid
If u have nothing positive to imput or say keep your comments to yourself, im not criticising anyone im asking as i cant get my head around how only a lil extra more travel could cause big issues, imo i might try some fox float 32z up front to see how that goes from 120 to 140/150 front but it appears everyone has the same on rear shock to leave it or change it for a better one with better bump rebound to assist this issue im having
It is the season to be jolly, so I'll refrain from telling you to go fuck yourself.


You asked a question, people answered it, and answered it well.
 

C0na

Likes Bikes and Dirt
i cant get my head around how only a lil extra more travel could cause big issues
Its not rocket science mate,

forks with a longer axle to crown height = change in head angle = Change in bikes handling, for good or for worse.

Longer shock = Higher BB, steeper angles, and the possibility of your frame hitting another part of your frame at full compression/decompression.

Do it wrong and you mess up the way the bike rides.

FWIW, you are wanting to change your bike into something it cannot be, its an XC race bike not a medium travel AM/Enduro bike.....
 
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Nutzaz

Squid
So how hard was it to say imo dont waste your time you will mess your xc up you want more travel buy a new bike that has what you want, so looks like in the new year might have to trade in the xc for an am bike. And i asked noob questions as no one would like to of spent 600+ on forks and shock to of just made there bike junk like its been said im kidding myself trying to make an xc into a am, thank you for your imputs
 

markgab

Likes Dirt
Its do-able just depends on your budget and liking :)
If you increase both front and rear, you'll raise your bb height.
You could offset that with bushings and lower sag.

But 120mm front and rear is a hard starting point.
I would say max would be a 140mm.

You're better off getting a new bike or $$ for a frame.
I would strongly suggest a Reign 2.
Seems like a bang for buck bike, no brainer!

I was in your situation months ago, but wanted AM parts and didnt really care about the frame.
So much so that when I changed all the parts, I needed to paint the frame because of the color scheme.
So I decided to just get another bike and couldnt be happier :)
 
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