Buying advice on 1x11 cassette and Brakes (XT/SLX or Deore M615)

[MeridaMatt85]

Hi All

Im hoping for some more great advice which I have gotten from here before.

I am looking at changing over from my current setup to a 1x11 setup. I am looking at an XT setup for all drivetrain, just not sure on what cassette, should I go for the 'normal' 42t or the massive 46t but I have heard that its a massive step from the gear below to the 46t. I am currently running a 32t on the front chainring.

Brakes- I have had a set of tektro auriga comp brakes that came on the bike, they were ok and honestly never had too many issues other than maybe experiencing some fade when im really going hard. I recently used a set of new shimano's and loved the lever 100% more than mine, so am thing of changing over to a set of new shimano brakes. I had in my sights the newer xtm8000 or slx m7000, much of a much ness on price from evans cycles. However I found a set of deore m615 for half the price and wondering what are these like and are the other THAT much better to justify the doubling of $$$

cheers in advance for any advice.

PS-this is going on a HT trail bike that is used on SA trails around Kuitpo, etc.

 

[Dozer]

I'll offer some advice on the brakes: If you are concerned with fade from your Tektro's then you should avoid Shimano brakes. This isn't a Shimano hate fest, I've had Shimano brakes on plenty of stock bikes and all of them are horrible for fade and heat up too quickly. They are fine for trail XC kindd of riding but for anything that requires some fairly heated braking, they are shit.
Understandably, you'll want to match your drivetrain components to your brakes and run them on the same bolt on your bars so I suggest going for the SLX only if you aren't tackling anything downhill-esque.

 

[Spike-X]

I've had Shimano M615s on my duallie since I bought it in February. I'm a bigger rider, so they have to work pretty hard, and I've never had the slightest problem.

 

[DMan]

Hi All

Im hoping for some more great advice which I have gotten from here before.

I am looking at changing over from my current setup to a 1x11 setup. I am looking at an XT setup for all drivetrain, just not sure on what cassette, should I go for the 'normal' 42t or the massive 46t but I have heard that its a massive step from the gear below to the 46t. I am currently running a 32t on the front chainring.

Brakes- I have had a set of tektro auriga comp brakes that came on the bike, they were ok and honestly never had too many issues other than maybe experiencing some fade when im really going hard. I recently used a set of new shimano's and loved the lever 100% more than mine, so am thing of changing over to a set of new shimano brakes. I had in my sights the newer xtm8000 or slx m7000, much of a much ness on price from evans cycles. However I found a set of deore m615 for half the price and wondering what are these like and are the other THAT much better to justify the doubling of $$$

cheers in advance for any advice.

PS-this is going on a HT trail bike that is used on SA trails around Kuitpo, etc.

And for my 2c I'd look at the Sunrace cassette as it's stepped better than the 46t Shimano which has a huge jump between the 10th and 11th (46) ring..

 

[The Duckmeister]

Shimano's 42 & 46T cassettes are the same except for the big sprocket, so yes, there is a huge jump to that low gear.

On the brakes, I too beg to differ on Dozer's view; I used to have some fade with old M665 SLX with resin pads, only on one particular descent. Since upgrading to M666 (same as M675/M785) I've not come close to any fade, especially with metallic pads. If anything, they have the opposite problem in winter - they can feel shit due not being able to get enough heat in! Resin pads can be a bit prone to glazing, but the newer compound released a couple of years ago may have addressed that.

M615 Deore are the same underlying design as M785 XT/M666/M675 SLX, but differ in materials to make them more budget-conscious. The biggest difference on the trail with M8000/M7000 is that the newer brakes have a revised Servo Wave (stroke ratio altering) cam profile, which makes the brake feel more progressive and better modulated. The modulation is there in spades with the older generation, especially with metal pads, but you do need to learn to ride the cam to get the best of it; if you're too ham-fisted you just flip the cam through and they get aggressive. In terms of outright grunt, there's little between the old & new generation, and none between each level within their generation (XTR down to Deore; sub-Deore aren't as powerful).

 

[Nambra]

At the risk of stating the obvious, I thought it might be worth suggesting buying the drivetrain and brakes as a complete groupset for better overall value eg. this bike24 deal. You can even select the 11-42 or 11-46 cassette as an option too.

Unless OP doesn't really need new BB, cranks and ring?

 

[MeridaMatt85]

Thanks for the replies so far!

I had considered buying a groupset but being on a budget will just keep my cranks and front chainring I already have, so that means all I need is new mech, chain, cassette, shifter and possibly cables all of which I can get under $300 AUS plus brakes...

I liked the more teeth on the 46t but I don't think that gap is very kind so am leaning towards the 42t but was hoping to get anyone opinions on the 46t...

In regards to brakes... I don't mind the 'bitey' feel that some have...although I am not sure what you mean by 'riding the cam'?!?!

Again thanks for the responses and keep em coming!

 

[DMan]

Thanks for the replies so far!

I had considered buying a groupset but being on a budget will just keep my cranks and front chainring I already have, so that means all I need is new mech, chain, cassette, shifter and possibly cables all of which I can get under $300 AUS plus brakes...

I liked the more teeth on the 46t but I don't think that gap is very kind so am leaning towards the 42t but was hoping to get anyone opinions on the 46t...

In regards to brakes... I don't mind the 'bitey' feel that some have...although I am not sure what you mean by 'riding the cam'?!?!

Again thanks for the responses and keep em coming!

Then get the sunrace 46T in a shimano fit.

 

[Daniel Hale]

I like the new deore 615's , don't seem that much better to me than xt's or any diff the then slightly older slx which I bought for the youngest bike

I just fitted a 11-40 sunrace to my 10 spd sram gears, I was surprised how well the shifting worked, I think I like it better than xt [shimano shifting & I just never got along for some reason] its obviously not XO, but for the cost & extra gears I'm really happy

ive got a long cage x9 derail so can accommodate the 2t, shimano needs a diff limit screw to get their derailleurs to be able to use the 42t cog -for me it has been better than sing 11spd -which I tried for a while but couldn't get along with -seems I was adjusting the rera cable tension for some unknown reason -10spd has never given me those same problems

 

[stirk]

I'm running an 11-42 cassette and wish I'd bought the 11-46 as the drop down in gearing going into the 42 is not enough after slogging it out up a long hill for ages. Well for my skinny legs anyway. It may even allow you to run a larger ring and increase your high gear ratio which is better for downhill speed.

As for brakes, listen to duck, he knows his stuff.

 

[MeridaMatt85]

ok so I was shopping around and I just found a place that I can get a set of front and rear SLX m7000 for $160 delivered to my door... they are specced as rear right lever and front left but since I will prob chop hoses I could swap anyways!.... im thinking $16 for a full set of new SLX M7000 is a good price yeah?

 

[Boom King]

ok so I was shopping around and I just found a place that I can get a set of front and rear SLX m7000 for $160 delivered to my door... they are specced as rear right lever and front left but since I will prob chop hoses I could swap anyways!.... im thinking $16 for a full set of new SLX M7000 is a good price yeah?

That's a good price.

 

[jdt1]

+1 for sunrace 11-42 shimano, awesome alternative if your on a budget! I also use the normal b tension screw with a 34 up front! All runs fine!

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[jdt1]

+1 for the 11-42 sunrace shimano cassette awesome value if your on a budget!
I also use the regular b tension screw with a 34 up front and it all works perfect!

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[Dales Cannon]

I have the 46t cassette on my fatbike and it changes well. I was dubious but it is good. Having said that I would not run the 46t on anything else. 32-11/42 on the Bronson is plenty low enough.

Happy with Shimabo brakes too, have Devore to XT in the previous series and new XTR Race.

 

[Daniel Hale]

shimano brakes seam to take changing hoses easily, i prefer to run right-rear [after using on my cx bike] i swapped them over quickly & didn't even need to re-bleed the deore's

 

[BLKFOZ]

I run 11/42 XT 11 speed with a 34 front ring. I can push a bigger gear than most and still occasionally wish for an easier gear at the end of a long ride up a proper hill. If I went 32 on the front I recon I'd spin out down hill. Spinning at 130rpm I can hit 50km/hr with the 34.

 

[The Duckmeister]

In regards to brakes... I don't mind the 'bitey' feel that some have...although I am not sure what you mean by 'riding the cam'?!?!

Shimano Deore & better (except the stripped-back XTR Race) brakes have a cam mechanism, called Servo Wave, between the brake lever and master piston. In the early part of the lever stroke the cam rotates and extends, giving the piston an extra push for rapid pad engagement. Once you hit the mid-stroke, the cam is fully extended so it's not boosting the lever stroke any more, so it essentially slows the piston movement relative to the lever. In the M988/M785/M675/M666/M615 family it's a quite aggressive profile, which gives those brakes a somewhat criticised grabby feel.

"Riding the cam" is the technique of finding the sweet spot in the mid-stroke where the cam action is slowing down, which opens up a bucketful of modulation. Basically, treat the brakes gently and they will return the favour; before you actually need to grab the brake, pull just a slight fingerful of pressure on the lever to start the cam moving, but without making pad contact. Then when you need the brake, just gently dial the pressure in to get the cam rolling in. If you're going to need repeated dabs of the brake, don't release it all the way, just until you feel the cam roll back off a bit. With this approach, you have a hugely powerful, controllable brake, especially with metal pads, which are better modulated anyway.

The latest generation M9020/M8000/M7000 have a smoother cam profile so they're a bit less jumpy, so you don't have to be quite as attentive to your technique on them.

 

[born-again-biker]

Good thread! Good info.
Been looking at 1x11 options lately myself...

I think Torp 7 is selling a stripped down drivetrain upgrade kit for Shimano atm. From memory you get rear mech, cassette, chain & shifter for a really good price...

 

[MeridaMatt85]

Shimano Deore & better (except the stripped-back XTR Race) brakes have a cam mechanism, called Servo Wave, between the brake lever and master piston. In the early part of the lever stroke the cam rotates and extends, giving the piston an extra push for rapid pad engagement. Once you hit the mid-stroke, the cam is fully extended so it's not boosting the lever stroke any more, so it essentially slows the piston movement relative to the lever. In the M988/M785/M675/M666/M615 family it's a quite aggressive profile, which gives those brakes a somewhat criticised grabby feel.

"Riding the cam" is the technique of finding the sweet spot in the mid-stroke where the cam action is slowing down, which opens up a bucketful of modulation. Basically, treat the brakes gently and they will return the favour; before you actually need to grab the brake, pull just a slight fingerful of pressure on the lever to start the cam moving, but without making pad contact. Then when you need the brake, just gently dial the pressure in to get the cam rolling in. If you're going to need repeated dabs of the brake, don't release it all the way, just until you feel the cam roll back off a bit. With this approach, you have a hugely powerful, controllable brake, especially with metal pads, which are better modulated anyway.

The latest generation M9020/M8000/M7000 have a smoother cam profile so they're a bit less jumpy, so you don't have to be quite as attentive to your technique on them.

Thanks for that really helpful info! Overnight I bit the bullet and bought a set of new SLX M7000 from cyclingexpress.com, $160 for both front and rear incl postage to my door, so I cant complain about that. by the way they have a 40% off deal atm so anything besides bikes, wheels and limited time only stuff (I think) gets 40% off....

I hadn't seen the torpedo 7 deal so I will look at that too. I was looking at an evans/crc mix which comes to about the same as that deal on torpedo...

Cheers again all! My bike is slowly being improved....