That's what I was trying to say....Is the notch on the b link rotated as far anti clockwise as possible so it is resting against the derailleur hanger?
I was going to suggest that, but looking at other pictures of XT RDs it looks to be in very similar spot with respect to the hanger.Is the notch on the b link rotated as far anti clockwise as possible so it is resting against the derailleur hanger?
I'm using both on 2 different bikes (1x10 11-40's) . Goat is cheaper, and a 3 minute install. Both work great.You'll need a GOAT link or RadR cage. On one of my bikes with 10 speed 11-42 with the Rad cage and XT clutch, it touches slightly but has worked a groove into it, so all good then I suppose On another bike 10 speed 11 -42, the same Rad cage XT clutch deraillieur touches really badly and can't be used. I got the RadR cage and using with a XTR clutch and now no fouling on the cassette
His looks tilted way too far back/up. Here's the same bike similar year:I was going to suggest that, but looking at other pictures of XT RDs it looks to be in very similar spot with respect to the hanger.
My guess here is that big cog, which looks like it has 42T written on it is a third party cassette expander, which means you're going to need something like the GoatLink to make sure the RD doesn't foul on the cog.
Or use a normal 10-speed cassette.
I don't that it is a direct mount hanger, didn't this bike originally have a SRAM rear derailleur.Direct mount frame.
Try this
Carbon frame from a different year to the OP's aluminium frame.Here's the same bike similar year:
Post a photo of the derailleur setup like the first photo but with the bike flat on the ground so the angles that the derailleur is attached can be seen better.Am I missing something dumb here?
i reckon this is correct....the whole derailleur mech seems to be angled too far back & too far away from the frame and as a result is spoiling with the cassette.Is the notch on the b link rotated as far anti clockwise as possible so it is resting against the derailleur hanger?
http://www.bike198.com/how-to-install-and-adjust-your-rear-derailleur/Thread the 5mm rear derailleur bolt into your derailleur hanger on your frame. Tighten the 5mm bolt to 8 – 10 Nm (70 – 85 in.lbs). Be sure to have the alignment block in the correct position (as shown) so that the derailleur is situated properly on the frame.
Hahah sorry all, I've been of with RFS for few days and now on a job interview in Melbourne you'll have to wait until Saturday!I think we're just hanging out for what the solution is. Come on OP! Tell us!
Surely this is the problem?i reckon this is correct....the whole derailleur mech seems to be angled too far back & too far away from the frame and as a result is spoiling with the cassette.
i'd restart the install with attention to position of the rear mechs 'alignment block' in regards to the hanger/frame...
i reckon this is correct....the whole derailleur mech seems to be angled too far back & too far away from the frame and as a result is spoiling with the cassette.
i'd restart the install with attention to position of the rear mechs 'alignment block' in regards to the hanger/frame...
No. Clearly I need to say it a bit louder.... The problem is the cassette that's outside the design specification of the derailleur.Surely this is the problem?
This is what I'm thinking is the issue. My fault for not checking/realizing. Goat link it isNo. Clearly I need to say it a bit louder.... The problem is the cassette that's outside the design specification of the derailleur.
Pardon? :music:No. Clearly I need to say it a bit louder.... The problem is the cassette that's outside the design specification of the derailleur.
THAT'S NOT LOUD. It's just you talking in a different colour.No. Clearly I need to say it a bit louder.... The problem is the cassette that's outside the design specification of the derailleur.