Are Tubeless Tires Worth It?

[hayd]

i was just wondering whether the extra cost and maintenance of tubeless tires are worth it. Are they hard to install? How often does the fluid have to be changed?
PS. i know all the benefits, like no pinch flats ect

 

[Cúl-Báire]

Are tubeless tyres worth it?

Nope, they are more expencive, heavier, only offer limited tread patterns etc... However a tubeless system is worth it. Less flats, they roll better, they grip better and they save weight.

Go tubeless - use normal kevlar bead tyres, with sealent - it works great

 

[Mojo]

thinking bout changing over. have gone through 3 maxxis downhill tubes in the last 2 weeks

 

[No Skid Marks]

You should be a bit more specific.
Mavic tubless rim(823,DeMax) with Tubless tyre(like Maxis,Michelin)
Or
Mavic tubless rim with normal tyre and latex or stans slime
or
Normal rim with normal tyre and stans rim strip and goo
or
Normal rim with normal tyre and Maxxis rim strip and goo
or
Normal rim with normal tyre and Ghetto set upwith 20" tube and slime
or
any other type set up.

 

[Big_Al]

Yes
Get stans no tubes system..It works in non UTS rims...There is a stripe of something that goes in ur rim to seal it..And you can still use any tyre you want
They can stop a 1/4 inch puncture with some system they have..You can run lower pressure as well..Less rolling weight..And you will probably save a bit of weight if ur running DH tubes..
GO IT

 

[hayd]

yeh i ment tubeless system
hey thanks for the quick replies guys,
yeh i was thinking of going for Stans

 

[No Skid Marks]

Cul Bair you can get tubless Minions,what else would you want.
I'm not that sure about the lower pressures though. I think that you burp air if you run them too low. I've run an 823 on the rear at about 25psi for nearly a year and it was fine for me but i'm soft and only 65kg with 9" protection and a rearward axle path. From what I've cocluded you'll still want to run upward of 20psi in them,at least the back. But I'm still learning myself.
Better grip and less rolling resistance seems a good enough reason to me.
I'm not too sure about the weight bennefits,I think it works out about the same even though lots people say otherwise,I think they leave something out when they tally the weight.
Slime can be messy.
Share what you learn please.
Anyone know what importer does tubless Minion 2.5 or 2.7 Minions?

 

[Big_Al]

a maxxis DH tube is around half a kilogram...With all the stuff in your rim it would add up to about 200grams...now two wheels thats around 600grams off your wheelset...Less rolling resistance and rolling mass means more power for longer...
I can get UST minions form my lbs.. a set (F&R) is about $120

 

[pistonbroke]

What about for XC and trail riding?I have mavic 819 disc rims(tubeless rims).I am currantly running ultralite maxis tubes.Are these tubes too thin?Running maxis larson tyres(wire bead).Is a dry system with tubeless tyres any good?

 

[No Skid Marks]

a maxxis DH tube is around half a kilogram...With all the stuff in your rim it would add up to about 200grams...now two wheels thats around 600grams off your wheelset...Less rolling resistance and rolling mass means more power for longer...
I can get UST minions form my lbs.. a set (F&R) is about $120

Not sure what system your talking about but I still think you're wrong(or should I say not entirely right).
Mavic rim tubless weighs more than say 721
Tubless tyres weigh more than their matching normal tyre
Ghetto 20" BMX tyre + sealant will weigh close to DH tube
Stans is probablly the best weight saver but I'm still not sure.
I run an XC tube in the front when running tubes,always have,so for me it brings the weights closer in my calculations.
My silver rim front Deemax with tubless Maxxis weighed about the same as my
Hope bulb hub with DT Ti spokes,XC tube,sigletrack rim with Minion(normal),The Deemax was probablly a bit lighter but that's a front,and that's the lightest Deemax ever made I think.
There's a weight advantage but not much and it's easy for there not to be if you do the wrong set up.
How much sealant is used with a Stans set up?

 

[hayd]

thanks guys, but how difficult is it to maintain a tubeless system?

 

[Shorerider]

Tubeless

I run Mavic EX823 with Maxxis Minions/High Rollers (Non Tubeless type as they are lighter) filled with a 1/2 cup of watered down liquid latex. I run 2.7's F&R with 25 psi in both. I weigh 67kg and ride DH only.

I have not had a flat tyre of any kind in TWO years!

The Latex cost's me less than a tube!

It lasts about 5-8 months depending on the season.

Your wheelset may end up lighter!

The main benifit, in my opinoin, is the fact that you dont get ANY flats. With all the hype aside, I think the worst part about tyres is the annoying task of fixing a flat. It takes time away from your riding or worse yet, could loose you a race!

I have converted 3 sets of non-tubeless rims, and the EX823's I am currently running. (8 tyres in total. and some were redone once the sealant dried up) Oh and I'm still on my FIRST tub of Latex.

I feel sorry for those who have had trouble with their attempts at going tubeless, and given up. If done correctly, you should not have any trouble.



Hope this helps, Shorerider!

 

[Mojo]

while this thread is somewhat fresh i'll chuck in a new question save a new thread,

I RUN KENDA TYRE'S FRONT AND REAR AND WANT TO RUN TUBELSS AT LEAST ON THE BACK. I HAVE A DEEMAX WHEELSET WHICH ARE UST, WHERE DO I GO FROM THERE TO GET RID OF THE TUBES? SHOULD I BUY A NEW TYRES WITH A THICKER SIDE WALL AND JUST CHUCK IN SOME OF THAT SEALANT STUFF?? IM NOT WORRIED ABOUT WEIGHT SO THAT DOESNT BOTHER ME.
(DONT KNOW IF KENDA DO TUBELESS BUT WAS TOLD PUTTING A TUBLESS TYRE ON WOULD PROB DAMAGE MY RIM SO NOT REALLY FUSSED ON DOING THAT!)

 

[julianwisbey]

deemaxes can run tubeless stock so just buy the valve and some ust minnions and your set nad some sealant almost forgot that one

 

[Hamsta]

Hello Shorerider

That sounds like a low cost, reliable, low maintenance set up, good idea champ!

I have a few quick questions if you don't mind answering them;

Where did you purchase the liquid Latex?

Approximately how much water do you think you add to the liquid latex for your setup?

Do/did you have any problems with valves?

I run a Maxxis Mobster slow reezay 2.4 on front on and a WTB MutanoRaptor 2.2 on the rear on WTB Dual Duty rims on bike 1 and WTB MotoRaptors 2.4 front and rear on Sun Ringles on bike 2

Any feedback much appreciated as I've considered going tubeless for some time but am too stingy to get the Stans system.

 

[No Skid Marks]

You don't need sealant if running tubless tyres,you can run it as back up but not needed,or normal tyres with sealant,you'll need the valve either way.

 

[Cúl-Báire]

Cul Bair you can get tubless Minions,what else would you want.
I'm not that sure about the lower pressures though. I think that you burp air if you run them too low. I've run an 823 on the rear at about 25psi for nearly a year and it was fine for me but i'm soft and only 65kg with 9" protection and a rearward axle path. From what I've cocluded you'll still want to run upward of 20psi in them,at least the back. But I'm still learning myself.
Better grip and less rolling resistance seems a good enough reason to me.
I'm not too sure about the weight bennefits,I think it works out about the same even though lots people say otherwise,I think they leave something out when they tally the weight.
Slime can be messy.
Share what you learn please.
Anyone know what importer does tubless Minion 2.5 or 2.7 Minions?

Minons are shite. My opinion of course There are a fair few UST tubeless options out there, and while UST is the fool proof way to go, it's also heavy. I much prefer running lighter rims, rimstrips and normal tyres with goo. It is lighter.

Thus far I have been using tubeless for over 3 years on 3 different systems. I've used UST in the form of Mavic 3.1d's / XM819's. Mavic XC717's with Stans No Tubes and Stans rims with tape (No rim strips). All have worked really well and while the UST certainly is the most reliable of the lot, it's also the heaviest. Upwards of 20psi is good, usually the 25psi range is pretty good of an average weighted person.

For what it's worth, I have used the following brand of tyres with no issues (Yes slime is messy).

Hutchinson- UST and Airlight
Maxxis- Normal Kevlar Bead and eXCeption series
Kenda- Kevlar Bead DTC's Stickies (love the Blue Grooves)
Continental- Assorted Kevlar bead.

No Skid Marks: I believe KWT imports Maxxis tyres, or at least they used too. Give them a try.

 

[Shorerider]

Tubeless.

Hello Shorerider

That sounds like a low cost, reliable, low maintenance set up, good idea champ!

I have a few quick questions if you don't mind answering them;

Where did you purchase the liquid Latex?

Approximately how much water do you think you add to the liquid latex for your setup?

Do/did you have any problems with valves?

I run a Maxxis Mobster slow reezay 2.4 on front on and a WTB MutanoRaptor 2.2 on the rear on WTB Dual Duty rims on bike 1 and WTB MotoRaptors 2.4 front and rear on Sun Ringles on bike 2

Any feedback much appreciated as I've considered going tubeless for some time but am too stingy to get the Stans system.

Liquid Latex can be bought from any decent Hobby shop. Around $30 for 1 litre.

The Latex, unmixed, is the consistency of cream. Just add water until it is about as thick as milk. Dont worry you dont have to be too accurate. About 1/2 a cup per tyre should do it.

My Mavic EX823's are UST, therefore have special valves and no rim strips. The only problem I have experienced is Latex making its way into the valve core and drying. This makes the valve leak during tyre pumping/checking pressures. I may have to remove the valves to clean them properly, or just get new ones if I cant. (if you use rim strips, you can simply remove the core for cleaning)

With any rims that aren't UST you will need to use rim strips of some sort. I have used 20" BMX tubes as rim strips and had no prob's. (20" for a tight fit) Cut the tube down the centre all the way around, install over the rim, then install the tyre.(installing the tyre will be much harder due to the rim strips, but they should fit) Trim off the excess tube as required.

I have not tried to run rim strips inside the tyre. (ie; not hanging outside the tyre) If you want to try it I reccomend running 2 layers of electrical tape over the spoke holes. One layer slightly to one side, the next slightly to the other. Also start opposite the valve hole in the rim, and between holes, not on one. Then cut out the hole in the tape where the valve goes. Try not to make the rim strip go up the inside of the sidewalls of the rim as this will interfear with the tyre bead.

Please go tubeless, its awesome. Once you get it, you'll never look back.

Don't hesitate so shoot me any more Q's, I'll be more than happy to help out.

Cheers, Shorerider.

 

[Daver]

Unfortunately i'd say no. Not only is running tubeless a pain to setup (unless you're using new tyres, its hard to get the bead to snap into place), but it makes changing tyres quickly a hassle. Even running Stan's is a pain IMO- burping the tyres in really rough stuff. I've had much more success with a normal xc tube and 721.

The biggest advantage of tubeless is that you can't pinch flat, and the bike feels like its running softer tyre pressures (even though they're the same pressures)- so you get a lot more grip.

In terms of the tyres themselves, from a DH view you're really limited to UST compatable tyres, although you can still get away with standard tyres.

 

[miko]

Cul, what did you think of the XM819s? I was thinking of getting these and going tubeless. I mostly just trail ride. I've killed XC717's before, and just want something hassle free and reliable. What do you think, 819's with normal tyres and goo?