Haakon
has an accommodating arse
Where is that? Tassie I assume.I think my campsite from a couple of weeks ago is worth an entry
Where is that? Tassie I assume.I think my campsite from a couple of weeks ago is worth an entry
You date your bodies and marry your lenses, as the saying goes..If you want to keep the lenses (which makes sense, as the high quality lenses are far more important a body with a good sensor)
That was the original plan but I want to see how the Z9 feels. It has some advantages with speed and ISO over my current dslr. The AF-S lenses play nice from what I have been reading and these are where I have spent big. I want to stay full frame. The D850/60 has a much better screen than my first edition D800 but mostly the rest is the same. Different sensor but same same. Z9 has some things I think I will use. I will go and grope one once stock is in hand. Mind you it is going to be every bit of $10k to set up by the time I factor cards, extra battery, Kirk bracket and lens adapter so $2k premium.The problem with full-frame mirrorless is that while the camera body shrinks (shorter lens mount flange distance) as the body doesn't have to allow for the mirror box, the lenses grow as they still need to project the same image circle over the sensor at the same distance the lens iris and sensor for a given focal length/optical design. This was an issue with the a7rII I owned. The camera was small, but carrying more than the one lens typically made for a physically larger/heavier kit than Canon full-frame equivalent.
If you want to keep the lenses (which makes sense, as the high quality lenses are far more important a body with a good sensor) - IMO I'd just buy another D-SLR, but just try and get one with an articulating back screen. In my experience (earlier Fuji, and a7rII) digital "viewfinders" don't feel at all natural or "real time" no matter how much marketing guff they throw at it. If I was composing a shot on mirrorless I found I'd just use the rear screen 95% of the time anyway, and an optical viewfinder was better for action type shots anyway.
Correct on Tas. Lake Rhona, Denison Range.Where is that? Tassie I assume.
Looks stunning. Love Tassie, though I haven't been for nearly twenty years.Correct on Tas. Lake Rhona, Denison Range.
Very nice. Looks like a decent walk in!Correct on Tas. Lake Rhona, Denison Range.
The only good experience I have had with non-genuine batteries (have had a few Canon DSLRs, Sony mirrorless, GoPros, etc) is Wasabi Power, every other has either been crap from the get-go, or not lasted long at all. The "Jupio" ones look like they might be alright though.Righto all you camera expert extraordinaires'
I was given a dunger Canon EOS 400D (was a school camera until they updated).
The batteries (NB-2LH) are clapped out and only last for a photo or two.
What battery brands (OEM notwithstanding) do people use?
Hambo'ed a shit tonne, have noticed most are 650-750mah (like the OEM batteries), some 900mah and a few 1100-1500mah options (located in AU, but not bricks and mortar stores). Does anyone know what the actual MAX capacity for these batteries is.
What stores do you buy camera batteries from?
Awesome, thanks for the insight @IsaakkThe only good experience I have had with non-genuine batteries (have had a few Canon DSLRs, Sony mirrorless, GoPros, etc) is Wasabi Power, every other has either been crap from the get-go, or not lasted long at all. The "Jupio" ones look like they might be alright though.
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Don't stress too much about pushing the capacity (and volatility) envelope too much. Even (new) stock capacity batteries will probably take a couple hundred+ pics at a slow shooting pace. Probably several hundred more if you were to take lots of photos at the same time (ie: having the camera on at 'idle' with the LCD on will be your main battery drain). Early Canon D-SLRs were pretty frugal with batteries. Still buy two batteries though, for when you inevitably forget to charge the one in the camera, walk/ride/drive somewhere to take a photo only to see the flashing battery symbol when you flick the camera on.Righto all you camera expert extraordinaires'
I was given a dunger Canon EOS 400D (was a school camera until they updated).
The batteries (NB-2LH) are clapped out and only last for a photo or two.
What battery brands (OEM notwithstanding) do people use?
Hambo'ed a shit tonne, have noticed most are 650-750mah (like the OEM batteries), some 900mah and a few 1100-1500mah options (located in AU, but not bricks and mortar stores). Does anyone know what the actual MAX capacity for these batteries is.
What stores do you buy camera batteries from?
Yeah have looked at them online, one near my place too so a fairly likely option.We have a 'battery world' store over here that sells all kinds of oem design battery's. No idea how pricing would compare to oem but might be worth a look if they have an online store.
Cheers @beeb, I did kind of think the "standard" capacity ones would probably be fine for my kind of use. It's not like I'll be doing mega photo shoots with it.Don't stress too much about pushing the capacity (and volatility) envelope too much. Even (new) stock capacity batteries will probably take a couple hundred+ pics at a slow shooting pace. Probably several hundred more if you were to take lots of photos at the same time (ie: having the camera on at 'idle' with the LCD on will be your main battery drain). Early Canon D-SLRs were pretty frugal with batteries. Still buy two batteries though, for when you inevitably forget to charge the one in the camera, walk/ride/drive somewhere to take a photo only to see the flashing battery symbol when you flick the camera on.
I had not thought to check YT for battery test videos. Going to have a look now!Any YouTube content with people testing real capacities of these batteries of interest?
There are 20-30 buck lithium battery testers, that place the cell/battery on a load and capture real capacities at a chosen current.
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fjohn860 I’m happy to test some for you if you’d like.
Might be obvious, might not be - but take the neck-strap off if doing long/stacked exposures. The buggers can tend to turn into mini friggen windsails right when you don't want them to.Been wanting a tracking mount to do some different astrophotography. There is a limit to the number of star trail shots you can take. I think in my case it was 2. Yes that is pretty. Yes I am now over it.
Eequatorial mounts are mostly too heavy to cart around in unless you are really really keen and too expensive and made to mount scopes on rather than a DSLR. The Skytracker GTi has come onto the market and is reasonably priced. Through the local agent I managed to pick one up that was a month old and save a big chunk as it came with a tripod and extra counterweight and some other bits and pieces. The guy who had it was operating a telescope and while the weight was (just) ok it was quite large and the windage affected the mount. So he went larger again and this was up for sale. Best hand over experience I have had with a second hand sale. Guy is very passionate about astrophotography and was incredibly helpful with tips and other aps to use.
With a camera and 200mm lens it will be fine. I can even get the 500mm on it too.
Had to machine one of my spare camera mounts for a 3/8" UNC thread but all good and that will pick up the lens or the camera in landscape or portrait mode.
It is relatively simple to operate because it is controlled by an ap on a smart phone and has a good system of orienting the unit. Then it is easy to take long exposures or stack multiple shots taken seconds apart. Now to learn how to use it... I will need a lens heater and a few other bits but this meant yesterday was a trifle expensive.
Not jealousy at all. I've been eyeing off something similar for a while, keen to see the shots.Been wanting a tracking mount to do some different astrophotography. There is a limit to the number of star trail shots you can take. I think in my case it was 2. Yes that is pretty. Yes I am now over it.
Eequatorial mounts are mostly too heavy to cart around in unless you are really really keen and too expensive and made to mount scopes on rather than a DSLR. The Skytracker GTi has come onto the market and is reasonably priced. Through the local agent I managed to pick one up that was a month old and save a big chunk as it came with a tripod and extra counterweight and some other bits and pieces. The guy who had it was operating a telescope and while the weight was (just) ok it was quite large and the windage affected the mount. So he went larger again and this was up for sale. Best hand over experience I have had with a second hand sale. Guy is very passionate about astrophotography and was incredibly helpful with tips and other aps to use.
With a camera and 200mm lens it will be fine. I can even get the 500mm on it too.
Had to machine one of my spare camera mounts for a 3/8" UNC thread but all good and that will pick up the lens or the camera in landscape or portrait mode.
It is relatively simple to operate because it is controlled by an ap on a smart phone and has a good system of orienting the unit. Then it is easy to take long exposures or stack multiple shots taken seconds apart. Now to learn how to use it... I will need a lens heater and a few other bits but this meant yesterday was a trifle expensive.
Strap was on just for test set up. Bahtinov masks and lens heaters odered.Might be obvious, might not be - but take the neck-strap off if doing long/stacked exposures. The buggers can tend to turn into mini friggen windsails right when you don't want them to.